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wnickum

Fisher-Paykel GW 10 Washer won't drain

6 posts in this topic

I have a similar vintage GW 10 FP washer, circa 2001.  Worked flawlessly for 10 years, then it stopped draining.  Had a repair man fix it, he replaced the control module, said that the diverter valve was always energized, so the module must be bad.  Replacing the module worked, for about 18 months, but just last week the same thing happened again.  I see that I could buy a new module, but I am disinclined to spend the money on the labor, maybe I could DIY?  Appreciate access to any repair manuals or other references (help with diagnostic codes, etc), all I have is the original user's guide.

 

Many thanks,

 

Will

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Check the diverter for a broken plastic actuator arm.  Can also check actuator operation using the manual test mode in the service summary provided by Samurai.  Should take 2-3 minutes for transition from recirculation to drain.

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Thanks for the tip and the service summary, only now checking back in.  Yes, the GWL 10US.  I have been able to get the washer to pump out after being disconnected, but any further cycling sends it back into the recirculating mode.  I have verified fault code 37 twice now, which I think means pump blockage error.  I will investigate further. 

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Those Fisher Paykel drain and recirculating hoses are just the right size for a dime to get into the hose and act as a check valve.  When the dime is horizontal water will flow.  When vertical, no flow.  Be sure to check.

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At long last I got through a few tests and checks on my washer.  Washer will pump out initially after reset of power (unplug and plug in again some time later), but as it moves through cycle the diverter valve gets a signal or something from the control module and is switched over to recirculate position, won't drain again.  I've checked the hoses, pulled out and re installed the basket, taken out the diverter valve, see no issues, actuator arm looks OK.  Pump seems to work fine.  So I think I am down to either replacing the diverter valve, the control module, or both...  I have had the control module replaced before, about 18 months ago, only problem I've ever had on this washer since new in 2001.  At the time the service guy believed it was the signal from the control module that was the problem, not the valve, and I expect he was right.  I've been hoping it isn't the same problem, but it sure seems like it.  Do you have a recommended source for parts, or should I deal directly with F&P?  Thanks,

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