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GE Fridge Model# PGSS5PJX: Is this a Samsung? and how to I get to Evap Fan?

22 posts in this topic

The evaporator fan doesn't work, I went to get too it and got about half way, and gave up.  I wanted to get the new fan before I got all the way back to check for power and what not. I might plan on replacing the board and the fan once I get into it, over kill?

 

Will I need to take apart most of the interior to get the back panel off?

 

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

First, you should do these voltage checks back at the muthaboard.  In all electronic refrigerators, teardown is a secondary or tertiary move, not your first move because you always start with system checks (voltage and resistance measurements) at the muthaboard.  The other trick is self test mode where you tell it to do stuff like run the evap fan, roll over, play dead, etc.  

 

Here's the service manual for this beast:  http://appliantology.org/files/file/892-ge-profile-bottom-mount-double-drawer-refrigerators-service-manual/

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When you remove the rear panel in the freezer, make sure to run force mode defrost (dd on control when in force mode. Should be 3rd step) that rear panel can be tough to get out. Any frost built up will cause the panel to stick and break the Styrofoam. If the Styrofoam breaks you have to change the entire panel or the unit will not work properly.

But like the great one said... Check those voltages first.

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When you remove the rear panel in the freezer, make sure to run force mode defrost (dd on control when in force mode. Should be 3rd step) that rear panel can be tough to get out. Any frost built up will cause the panel to stick and break the Styrofoam. If the Styrofoam breaks you have to change the entire panel or the unit will not work properly.

But like the great one said... Check those voltages first.

although this beastie looks like a samsung, it quacks like a GE. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe this model requires the 4 button push on the interface then enter 1-4 on the pad as on standard Profiles to force defrost or by jumping at the board.

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Guess I should have looked up the mod #. Shame on me!!! I think your correct brother Durham!!!

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Heck, I'm just impressed that you got that samsung diagnostic procedure down like that!

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Well it's in my head. Haven't had to do it yet. Battling my first one since ASTI this week. I guess we will see if my mind will let my hands do the work. Lol

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Well it's in my head. Haven't had to do it yet. Battling my first one since ASTI this week. I guess we will see if my mind will let my hands do the work. Lol

I had at least 4 since Asti and I'm still looking to get some discarded models for testing practice.

Recently I purchased an inexpensive laminator. Gonna laminate exploded and annotated pictures of the boards and procedures and put them in a binder. Yeah, i got my tablet but sometimes when working on appliances, nothing beats a hard copy. Especially when it's large... I guess I'm making my on "Samsung for Dummies" book.

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I'm a little lost, I ordered a control panel for testing and will run the voltage and ohms test on the back like any other GE? Is this a difficult refrigerator to diagnos and work on? and being a rookie should I shy away from this repair, and it may not matter, is this made by GE or Samsung?

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Your model either has a 5 button display or a dispenser lcd display. The manual suggests the aid if you have the dispenser lcd display.

If your model is the nondispenser lcd version , you already have a five button interface and if it is working properly will be the same as the Diagnostic aid. You can still use the aid but you have to either disconnect the interface inside the fridge to be able to use the front ports or better yet, connect your aid to the j4 connector (thereby disconnecting fridge interface.)

Edited by DurhamAppliance
edited to reflect the two versions of this model per manual

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Recently I purchased an inexpensive laminator. Gonna laminate exploded and annotated pictures of the boards and procedures and put them in a binder. Yeah, i got my tablet but sometimes when working on appliances, nothing beats a hard copy. Especially when it's large... I guess I'm making my on "Samsung for Dummies" book.

Are you going to put this out in public print copies 7 market it.   I have a radio shack 'kindle' but it is not like a hard copy.   I like to write in/on all my books.  Keeps my notes write there.  Been doing that since my college days.   Never have liked scrolling.   I like turning the page & refreshing myself with my little notes.

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I'll buy a copy of your book. "Durham's Samsung refrigeration picture book!"

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I'll buy a copy of your book. "Durham's Samsung refrigeration picture book!"

Hey, I might even go so far as to make it a picture, popup and coloring book. Also open some pages and authentic samsung fridge diagnostic beeps will play. The section on customer relations will have finger puppets to represent the tech and customer. Techs and kids from 1 to 92 will love it.

Got a name for it already: " See Samsung, Run Tech Run"

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... I guess I'm making my own "Samsung for Dummies" book.

http://covers.dummies.com/

 

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Edited by RegUS_PatOff

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That's awesome!  A preview of the greatness to come!  

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lol Reg, that's cool as all outdoors! Going to amazon right now to order one.... oh, wait! lol

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Pop ups and everything!??? Maybe Samsung will make it an authorized training aid. You can make thousands of dollars...maybe even a bazillion!!!

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Well, I'm still lost:

 

1. It may not matter, but is this made by Samsung for GE with GE boards and parts? or Just a GE?

2. This has the controls on the front, and not inside, so I didn't need to order a control panel, I can put it in test mode from the front face controls?

3. Thanks agian for your help and support...and keeping it light.

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This is a full blooded GE.

You are right, the manual references two versions, one (non dispenser version) has a 5 button display. The other (dispenser version) needs a diagnostic aid and is suggested by the manual . You apparently have the latter. The dispenser model you have uses an lcd display that has limited and sucky diagnostics... it is a version on "the bastard" fridge that is my nemisis. Be careful with this type as "all fans mode" on the lcd does not turn on all fans. At least not with the "bastard"

I will modify my earlier post to avoid confusion

ps... the samsung off topic stuff probably added to the confusion... I apologize for that (but will still sell you the book once it's published) . but your model is definitely all GE. The question is, is that a good thing?

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Thanks for the info, I will likely plow ahead with this repair, I think its the only way i'm going to learn this stuff, painful as it may be.

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...Well I went back out to wrap up this repair and came away with a few more questions:

 

I replaced the board and the evap fan:

 

1. I was not getting air out of the FF section when I left, my theory is that the freezer section has to be satisfied before the damper will open? Yes, the fan was running full speed and the freezer temp was 47f and the FF was 59f.

 

2. I tested the voltage for the damper motor ( J2 pin 3 to J3 pin 1,2,3,4 )  and was looking for  6vdc but had nothing, I assume the damper motor would have to be in operation to have voltage show up on this test?

 

3. I did this repair without the control panel, if I had it during testing, could have I put it in test mode and ran the damper to check for 6vdc at the board?

 

4. Are these test locations on the connectors univasal locations for all GE refrigerators with boards?  This one had a variable speed compressor.

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1 check the manual for cooling order

2) usually with GE's if you unplug the fridge and plug it back in, you have 10 seconds to check for voltage at the board.

3) yes

4) Pretty much but be careful in assuming all GE made profiles, arcticas etc have the same anything. There are board variations.. some have inverter connections and some fridges have AC condenser fan motors so testing it at J2 is impossible. I also use to think all GE fridges with evap thermistors use the same 140f defrost limit... not! I know of at least one model which uses the limit as a defrost terminator and putting the 140f limit in it will cause the board to terminate based on upper defrost time limit of 40 minutes as opposed to the 55f (can't remember exact temp) termination temp of the proper limit. In short, ALWAYS check your manual.

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