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GE Fridge Model# PGSS5PJX: Is this a Samsung? and how to I get to Evap Fan?


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21 replies to this topic

#21 AlexM

AlexM

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 07:25 AM

...Well I went back out to wrap up this repair and came away with a few more questions:

 

I replaced the board and the evap fan:

 

1. I was not getting air out of the FF section when I left, my theory is that the freezer section has to be satisfied before the damper will open? Yes, the fan was running full speed and the freezer temp was 47f and the FF was 59f.

 

2. I tested the voltage for the damper motor ( J2 pin 3 to J3 pin 1,2,3,4 )  and was looking for  6vdc but had nothing, I assume the damper motor would have to be in operation to have voltage show up on this test?

 

3. I did this repair without the control panel, if I had it during testing, could have I put it in test mode and ran the damper to check for 6vdc at the board?

 

4. Are these test locations on the connectors univasal locations for all GE refrigerators with boards?  This one had a variable speed compressor.



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#22 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 09:24 AM

1 check the manual for cooling order

2) usually with GE's if you unplug the fridge and plug it back in, you have 10 seconds to check for voltage at the board.

3) yes

4) Pretty much but be careful in assuming all GE made profiles, arcticas etc have the same anything. There are board variations.. some have inverter connections and some fridges have AC condenser fan motors so testing it at J2 is impossible. I also use to think all GE fridges with evap thermistors use the same 140f defrost limit... not! I know of at least one model which uses the limit as a defrost terminator and putting the 140f limit in it will cause the board to terminate based on upper defrost time limit of 40 minutes as opposed to the 55f (can't remember exact temp) termination temp of the proper limit. In short, ALWAYS check your manual.

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com





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