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      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

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DocSardonic

Bosch WFMC3200 works, quits. works again, quits again

38 posts in this topic

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Assuming 4-5 is the motor tach the schematic isn't real plain on that shows lines going from 4 and 5 to a circle with a g in it.

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"g" stands for the German word, "Geschwindigkeitsmesser" which IS a tachometer.  

 

Replace the board.  

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Thank You will replace the board and report back.

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OK.....Here's the report from the Motor Control surgery....Removed the diseased motor control and replaced with a new healthy control.  Washer performed an empty cycle for cleaning purposes perfectly.  Put in a medium sized load of laundry items, the washer once again performed perfectly.  Will type up my debriefing in anther post.

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No I had ordered the board when I ordered the harnesses, just in case it was needed....Figured better to have on hand and have to RMA, than need and not have.

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Well a little more to the saga....After two flawless loads the son of a motherless goat has decided it wants to throw some more errors.  Just got an E:04 which from manual perusal and searching around implicates door latch problems, main control board or pump. Any quick dirty tricks to find the culprit?

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Does the washer pump out properly (good discharge flow, inner basket drained)?

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Pump is not pumping water out.  Ran p:09 last night and the test started out flashing P:09 63 then P:09 88 while putting in water. the test in the manual says it should go to 177 which would be from heating level to door locked level. The test throws an E:13 and aborts before it reaches 177.  P:15 never moves from 88 to 177 also throws E:13, with no sound from pump.  I am in the process of rigging up a water removal device combining an empty 2 liter bottle and a Shop Vac so we are either going to have just a little water on the floor or a small flood in the laundry room.

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Finally had time to dismember  disassemble to check the pump.  Removed the cover and drained the rest of the water out. Removed the drain hose and performed the bugle test and the flow of air and some water was unobstructed. Removed sump hose and poured water through the tub and sump drained freely.  Now on to the pump exam.

Performed ohm test on pump. Pump reads 16 ohms rather than the 140 - 200 ohms in the specs.  Also checked the harness to the pump and it is getting approximately 46 volts but that could be my meter and leads. So where do we go from here? 

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Some new information on this. Decided to redo my testing from last evening. Plugged my meter back into the pump harness, plugged the machine back in and lo and behold 115 volts at pump harness, with washer just plugged in no cycle or test selected.  So i decide lets energize the thing and start a spin cycle since that will start the pump first, voltage goes from 115 to 46. This seems to be backwards to me since the duty cycle for the pump is 15 on/45 off.

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Can't spend any more time on this. Washer is being parted out and replaced.

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