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maytag front load washer won't spin

maytag neptune spin

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14 replies to this topic

#1 tgafford

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 11:04 AM

My mah7500 tries to spin but fails to go into high speed.  when I access the diagnostic screens and do an unloaded spin test, it shows an imbalance value of up to 200 or so at speeds up to 300 RPM, then zeroes out when it goes faster with no load.  It will spin to 1000 rpm smoothly.

 

It doesn't throw an imbalance code during the cycle - the only stored codes showing on the diagnostic screen are "7" - heater failure, which I'll deal with as a separate issue)

 

The only explanation of plaster detection I could find is in Maytag's patent number US6594841 (you can see it on Google's patent site) where it describes looking for erratic torque as it runs the drum slowly.  My drum isn't noisy, but I don't see what this could be other than bad bearings.  I haven't pulled the unit out to hand-rotate the drum and feel the bearing for myself.  what is my next step?  

 

If it is bearings, I've read that the official fix is a new basket / drum, while there are some web sites that talk about replacing the bearings themselves.  recommendations?

 



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#2 PDuff

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 11:51 AM

Check inner basket for any up/down play by lifting forward lip.  Make sure unit is draining properly and sump hose is clear of any debris.  If not making a lot of noise during high speed spin the bearings should be ok.  There is a motor and speed control conversion kit for older units but not sure if your symptoms apply.



#3 tgafford

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 01:16 PM

thanks.  the inner tub has no play, it rotates smoothly within the outer tub but has no free play up and down.  how do I know the unit is draining properly?  when I rotate the inner tub, the water sloshes so the tub seems to be dragging in a pool of water, even though the water doesn't appear above the holes in the inner tub.  When I turn the drain on in service mode, very little water comes out, is there a way to completely drain the washer?



#4 PDuff

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 02:51 PM

Squeeze the rubber sump hose at bottom of tub to feel if any debris may have collected or even better disconnect and inspect.  The water you hear when rotating inner basket might be the balance ring.



#5 micabay

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 09:41 PM

Also The water you hear " slouching" may be the sealed balance ring. Aka normal operation.

Like Pduff says Check the bigger hose that goes from the tub to the drain for crude by squeezing it.

Check to make sure the inertia switch under the outer tub is closed. When the unit gets out of balanced this switch trips opening the circuit up, telling the computer to slow its roll and start over again.

This design is great becaus you can easily take the front cover off to view and gain good access with 4 screws inside the door jam. Also, what other FL washer can you reverse the door on?

#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 May 2013 - 07:32 AM

Don't worry about the residual water. The no-draining condition that the Brethren were referencing manifests as visible standing water in the inner basket. Proceed with the investigation of the balance circuit.

#7 tgafford

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Posted 30 May 2013 - 08:30 AM

Which balance sensor would prevent a fast spin without setting a code? It is behaving exactly as if it cannot get past the plaster imbalance stage, which is sensed by motor torque and doesn't rely on tub excursions. With no load the tub sounds like it turns smoothly yet the imbalance diagnostic display shows upwards of 200 at low speeds. I assume this number comes from motor torque measurements, what do I look for? I thought I might take the back panel off and turn it by hand to see if it feels smooth.

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 May 2013 - 08:52 AM

A quick n' dirty test is to jumper out P3:3-2 on the machine control board.  This bypasses the balance circuit altogether.  Then try running a normal spin cycle (not in test mode).  


Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 02 June 2013 - 01:48 PM.
Corrected typo


#9 tgafford

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Posted 30 May 2013 - 05:37 PM

best accessed from the back?  and by balance circuit you mean the balance trip switches, yes?  

 

Can you tell me what a healthy 'Unbal.' value is during pre-spin unplastering?  I'm watching it fail to progress from pre spin right now, and I'm seeing values in the hundreds with a light wash load.



#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 May 2013 - 06:30 PM

best accessed from the back?  

 

 

The machine control board is in the control panel.  You're looking at it's display when you operate the washer.  

 

and by balance circuit you mean the balance trip switches, yes?

 
Yes.

 

 

Can you tell me what a healthy 'Unbal.' value is during pre-spin unplastering?  I'm watching it fail to progress from pre spin right now, and I'm seeing values in the hundreds with a light wash load.
 

 

 

Insufficient data from the manufacturer.  Just the do the test I prescribed and don't try to overthink this.  



#11 tgafford

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 06:13 PM

as to jumpering P3-1 to P3-2, the schematic I have shows 24vdc coming out of P3-4, going through three unbalance switches, and coming back into P3-2.  P3-1 is ground.  Surely, sensei, if I connect P3-2 to ground I will be shorting out 24vdc to ground through the switches.  If instead I connect P3-4 to P3-2, I will be jumpering around the switches themselves, thus preventing a spurious imbalance signal from occurring.  Please let me know which way is right.



#12 tgafford

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 07:31 PM

P3-1 is machine ground and not part of the unbalance sense circuit. My tshoot guide says p3-3 is the common terminal for motor control signals. I jumpered p3-2 to p3-4 to short the unbalance switches and the machine still won't spin up in normal or service cycle or quick spin test with plaster unbalance detection enabled. If I run the quick spin test with plaster unbalance detection disabled then it spins just fine. Now what?

Correction I meant to say p2-3 is control common.

#13 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 01:50 PM

Typo.  Corrected my other post.  You can read a wiring diagram as well as I can: jumper out P3:3-2.  



#14 tgafford

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 05:24 PM

I'll try this in the morning. Since p3-3 and -4 both supply 24v and p4-4 is where the imbalance switches get their 24v, what difference does it make to jumper 2 and 3 instead of 2 and 4 like I tried today?

#15 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 06:30 PM

Without the schematic of the control board itself where you can tell what's going on within the circuitry, neither you nor anyone else can answer that question.  Absent details about the board, you're left working with the information about the inputs and outputs to and from the board as given to you on the wiring diagram.  No magic.  No crystal balls.  Just working with the data and information as given (or not).  






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