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Kenmore 110.29962890 washer won't drain


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26 replies to this topic

#1 dcentuori

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Posted 31 May 2013 - 07:47 PM

Been awhile since my washer gave me trouble....  Got a tub full of clothes and water and it went through the wash cycle w/o draining.  Even was spinning.  I have looked at the timer and manually advanced it.  The timer appears to be OK--I can see it move and hear the switches click.  No obvious signs of burnt out contacts.  (besides, I replaced this timer about 2 years ago)  Tub will agitate, spin, water will go on and off.  Just won't drain.  I think I got a bad drain valve, but want to make sure--what other troubleshooting can I do to isolate?  I'm also pretty sure that I don't hear the solenoid engage, so I don't think I have a blockage.

 

Also, if I do have a bad drain valve, can someone tell me how to drain my washer so I can work on it??

 

Humbly yours,

 

Dante



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#2 fairbank56

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Posted 31 May 2013 - 08:24 PM

  Check for power at the drain valve solenoid connector during drain. Disconnect connector and check continuity of drain valve solenoid coil. Operate the drain valve lever by hand while in drain mode to drain washer.

 

http://www.repaircli...em-3358559.html

 

Eric


Edited by fairbank56, 31 May 2013 - 08:28 PM.


#3 dcentuori

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Posted 31 May 2013 - 08:31 PM

Thanks.  Can you show me on a photo or diagram where on the drain valve is the lever?  It's going to be really tough for me to get into the back of the machine w/o moving it, but I can't move it until I drain it.  So I may not be able to get a good look at the valve to figure it out.

 

Dante



#4 fairbank56

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Posted 31 May 2013 - 08:46 PM

   You need to remove the cabinet. Should be on lower left side. Lever arm will be facing away from front access. You can see it in this photo.

 

3358559.jpg


Edited by fairbank56, 31 May 2013 - 08:47 PM.


#5 dcentuori

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Posted 31 May 2013 - 10:30 PM

OK, I can get my finger under there and push on the lever, but it is not draining.  I have bypassed the lid switch and tried different parts of the cycle.  Could the pump be bad?  Same questions--how can I drain the tub if the pump is bad.....and how to confirm it.

 

I may just see if I can siphon it.

 

Thanks,

Dante



#6 dcentuori

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 05:45 AM

I was able to siphon out the tub and get out the clothes.  But that took me until 1am and now I need to go into work!  But when I get back I will move the washer around so I can get to the valve solenoid.  Any other tests I can do down there?

 

Thanks,

Dante



#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 09:34 AM

OK, I can get my finger under there and push on the lever, but it is not draining.  I have bypassed the lid switch and tried different parts of the cycle.  

 

Remove the cabinet and jumper the lid switch.  Repeat the test following Brother Eric's expert instructions.  Repeated here for your benefit:

 

 

  Check for power at the drain valve solenoid connector during drain. Disconnect connector and check continuity of drain valve solenoid coil. Operate the drain valve lever by hand while in drain mode to drain washer.

 

http://www.repaircli...em-3358559.html

 

Eric

 

 

Emphasis added to the part about checking for power.  



#8 dcentuori

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 09:59 AM

I am honored by your response, Grand Master.

 

Just to be sure, is there a certain voltage I need to look for, or just the presence or absence of any power.

 

thanks!

 

Dante



#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 10:18 AM

120vac, nominal



#10 dcentuori

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 11:39 AM

OK.  I get power, 120VAC, coming from the connector harness and when I test continuity at the solenoid the needle doesn't budge.  Sounds like a bad solenoid, right?  It is a coil, just a very long length of wire, and should show some resistance, but not this much!

 

Is that the bad boy?  The drain valve?  Can I get just the solenoid, or do I have to get the whole unit?

 

Thank you!

 

Dante



#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 11:48 AM

OK.  I get power, 120VAC, coming from the connector harness and when I test continuity at the solenoid the needle doesn't budge.  Sounds like a bad solenoid, right?  

 

 

Exacamundo, my keen-eyed Grasshoppah!  You done found the problem.  Nice shootin'!   :armed:

 

Sounds like a new drain solenoid will restore harmony to your household:  http://www.repaircli...em-3358559.html



#12 dcentuori

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 12:00 PM

On order right now and should arrive on Tuesday.  Luckily, we did a lot of loads already and can make it til then.  (I also broke that little plastic support bracket in the back and tacked that on the order, grrrrr.)

 

I will post an update when I have this installed.

 

Is there any kind of maintenance I should do while I have it apart?  Things to check that can show signs of impending doom?  I'll have a few days to mess around.....

 

thanks!



#13 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 12:09 PM

Check the condition of the drive coupler:  http://www.repaircli...285753A/1195967

 

 

You'll need to remove the motor to really get a good look at the pieces.  It's a frequent-fail item but inexpensive and very easy to replace.  



#14 dcentuori

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 12:26 PM

Thanks for the tip; I'll take a look tonight.  Also, while I have the cabinet off, I'm going to check all the hose connections--any reason to pull off the hoses and check the insides?  Do they collect gunk like my Escort's hoses (or my arteries)?  I'll clean any filters and vacuum and blow out all the dirt and dust in the frame. 

 

And it looks like that tub needs a cleaning, ewh.  I need to get a spanner wrench for the tub nut, right?  That isn't something I can improvise.  And should I be concerned about rust underneath the top and on the water shield?  I don't think it is getting in the clothes, but is that something better left alone?

 

Thanks.  I'm not trying to restore this to showroom quality, like a classic car, but trying to do all the logical things while I have the cabinet off.  Don't want to pull that off just to clean a rust stain!

 

Dante



#15 dcentuori

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 09:57 PM

Check the condition of the drive coupler:  http://www.repaircli...285753A/1195967

 

 

You'll need to remove the motor to really get a good look at the pieces.  It's a frequent-fail item but inexpensive and very easy to replace.  

 

Great call!  Coupler piece on motor has maybe 30 deg. of play!  Looks like the replacements now have a metal sleeve, so it seems worth the $20 or so to get one tomorrow.

 

Thanks again!



#16 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 08:17 PM

Good diligence checking it out!   :thumbsup:



#17 dcentuori

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 06:59 PM

:burnin: AAHH!  I hope this is something simple and obvious.

 

I replaced the drain solenoid and hooked it up and ran a cycle and it worked! Then I ran another and it didn't work.  Hasn't worked since the first time.  Unlike my original valve, I can move the lever with my finger and drain the tub that way.  Here are the details:

  • getting 125vac to the solenoid
  • solenoid has continuity, about 10KOhms
  • when the solenoid gets voltage I can hear and feel some humming
  • when I push the lever on the valve all the way, the solenoid grabs the lever and I can let go
  • If it helps troubleshoot, I did some major soap gunk cleaning today and disconnected the vacuum hose to the water level switch.  I put it back on, but didn't do anything special
  • Also, I replaced the drive coupler so I had the motor and pump disconnected and reconnected

Is is possible my new valve just broke? This is crazy.  Like I said, I hope there is some resetting thing I just need to do!

 

Help! :wallbash:

 

Dante



#18 dcentuori

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 07:18 PM

One more thing, if this helps.  I just noticed on my original valve, that there appears to be a microswitch on the housing.  It would be engaged by the washer on the plunger when the solenoid draws it in.  Is this something to look at further?  I can see the same thing on my replacement, but can only get in there with finger to assess.  is this some kind of reset switch?  or something that helps the solenoid sense the position of the plunger--and if so, is something out of whack and the solenoid "thinks" it is working?

 

(sigh)

Dante



#19 fairbank56

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 07:37 PM

  Sounds like the switch in the solenoid went bad. That solenoid contains a 5 amp fuse, a 4 diode bridge to convert the AC to DC, 2 coils and a switch. It has a starting coil and a holding coil as it takes more power to pull the solenoid in as it does to hold it in. That's why it works if you manually push it in.

 

  Can you provide a high res photo of your wiring diagram, sears parts web site says it's diagram number 3950071 but that doesn't seem to be the correct one.

 

Eric


Edited by fairbank56, 09 June 2013 - 07:40 PM.


#20 dcentuori

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 07:41 PM

Sonuva....  I guess I'm going back to the appliance parts store tomorrow.  Unfortunately, they had to order it, so I may be looking at a few more days.  At least I can do this manually and get an emergency load done.

 

Thanks,

Dante






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