Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

JMelvin

Whirlpool washer not spinning -I think the drive coupler is ok.

26 posts in this topic

Good Evening Ladies and Gents,

 

I've got a Whirlpool washer that won't spin during the spin cycle.

 

I have read the great info here and removed the cabinet, pump and motor expecting to find a bad coupler. Please see the attached pic. It seems ok, no?

 

So, now what?

 

Here are the model and serial:

 

LXR6232EQO

CH2811998

 

Many thanks!

 

-Jeff (formerly tamfflcommissioner)

 

post-83640-0-70073700-1370050557_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Looks like that may not be your problem, but you should still change it. looks a little rough. Your problem may be in the spin clutch. Look at the inside of the washer machine cabinet and see if there is an oil ring slung around the case towards the bottom. The transmission seals leak sometimes and fills the clutch with oil and wont let it spin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with Brother Reginald that the lid switch is the prime suspect.  There's a video at the link he posted for you that shows you how to test and replace it.  More detailed information in my seminal tome on diagnosing spin and agitate problems in these machines:  http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Brothers,

 

I will test and report back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lid switch has continuity when lid is closed.

 

So I did what you suggested: 

 

Jumpered the lid switch harness and put her in spin

 

Machine ran in spin and disc was spinning

 

So I did what you suggested: 

 

Look for trouble in the clutch by using the unsanctioned hand test.

 

I could stopped it with my pinky

 

So I did what you suggested: 

 

And this is what I found:

 

So, is THIS the problem?post-83640-0-25751900-1370480491_thumb.j

 

-Jeff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hard to tell for sure I this pic. But it looks bad to me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Replace the  seal on the cover of gear box and replace or clean the clutch.................90 min. job.......... :thumbsup: ......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does it drain without spinning or does it go directly into spin after a long period of agitation? Run a cycle and let it agitate for at least 5 minutes, When the timer gets to the drain/spin phase, does it go directly into spin? or does it drain without spinning first?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Samurai!

I will purchase the clutch kit. As you can see little plastic bits of the brake(?) in the clutch. However, is there normally an amount of grease there or is that the sign of a larger problem?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The "grease" is probably a combination of worn schmutz and de minimis oil leakage from the transmission.  Nothing to worry about unless you've seen a puddle of oil underneath the transmission.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you do not fix  the oil leak, you will be having the same problem.............

"Maybe not today, Maybe not tomorrow , but soon and for the rest of your life "......

Fixit while it is apart.".......

Seal P/N is  3349985......................

Some where there is pictures of a repair I did......

Now where did I put that thing?????

 

4152011025.jpg

 

 

 

4152011036.jpg

 

 

 

4152011013.jpg

Edited by RegUS_PatOff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ARRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHHHH!

 

C-clip came in. Nothing to clip to.

 

I suspect my drive tube is compromised. Can anyone send a close up of the end of this part? I suspect there is a groove to slide the clip onto? I need to get my groove back.

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Basket-Drive/285792/1254?modelNumber=LXR6232EQ0

post-83640-0-47358900-1372011582_thumb.j

post-83640-0-81698100-1372011583_thumb.j

Edited by JMelvin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Eric!

Does the bearing slide over the tube? I'd like to fully understand how it comes together before I buy another $4.00 part and pay for shipping again and still not have everything I need.

And I guess that explains why there was no C-Clip. Pulverized over time?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  It fits into the tube. It has a shoulder on it and that is what "creates" the groove when the bearing is all the way in.

 

Eric

 

WhirlpoolBasketDriveBushing.jpg

Edited by fairbank56

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Eric,

You rock!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A Thousand THANK YOU's to all of you. Finally got the bearing out using a slide hammer. The old one was in pretty rough shape. Explains why the C-Clip was missing when I went to reassemble. Both pieces ground into oblivion. Probably part of the schmutz that Sensei pointed out above.

 

If I were doing this job for someone else, I would probably have changed the tranny gasket and drive coupler. But it wasn't too hard disassembling everything if I need to go back again.

 

I am attaching more pictures for your viewing pleasure.

 

I am on my third load of laundry. I am sooooooo agitated. HA! Get it?post-83640-0-68141300-1372559286_thumb.jpost-83640-0-42568600-1372559287_thumb.j

 

-Jeff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great job!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Might consider replacing the basket drive, you're already in this deep. You could have the thing spinning as good, or better than new. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

JMelvin... Keep fighting the good fight. This machine is worth fixing, no matter the cost! You would rather have a 10year old of this design than any brand spanking new top load.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites