Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

LG Fridge LFC22740ST Not Cooling


  • Please log in to reply
7 replies to this topic

#1 BK1017

BK1017

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Russian River Supplication

Posted 03 June 2013 - 03:27 PM

First of all, thank you for your patience. This forum/site has proved to be very useful in my endeavor of getting my fridge fixed, and I hope it will help me a bit more. 

 

The problem: My LG fridge stopped cooling. It has been going on for some time (months?) but my solution was always to unplug the unit, then plug it back in and viola, cold air. The pull out freezer has worked great through all of it though. Finally this weekend the solution didn't work, so I called out a tech today. He said pretty quickly that the PCB board needed to be replaced, but did not pull out his multimeter or infrared thermometer. Just kind of felt around for air flow, checked the door switches, and turned the unit off/on. He did mention an excess of frost built up in the freezer. 

 

However, the unit continued to work normally again as I left the house, so I'm skeptical as to whether the board actually needs to be replaced. I read the 'warm fridge fire drill' and also the FAQ's, so I'm thinking that I need to clean the bottom of the unit and possibly defrost the unit. Thoughts? 

 

I went ahead and ordered the PCB just in case. The installation seems straight forward, but can I do this myself? If so, any tips/tricks or advice? The technician warned against this, stating that he may need to program it. I'm not totally convinced that's the case though. 

 

Any advice on how next to proceed would be grateful. Thanks in advance. 

 

Brian-San

 

 



Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

    Sho' Nuff Chozin

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 4,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bells Two Hearted

Posted 03 June 2013 - 05:06 PM

I am having a similar issue on a lg made kenmore.. ... one thing to check is your pcb cover. If it is plastic, there is a possibility of interference with the board. see
http://appliantology...ittent-problem/
The cover was on back order and I will know if it fixes my problem soon. It costs about $80 so I ordered it from repairclinic just in case it doesn't stop the probem

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#3 PDuff

PDuff

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,803 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bud Ice (Yeah, I know)

Posted 03 June 2013 - 05:07 PM

Have there been any fault codes displayed, er ff or anything else?



#4 BK1017

BK1017

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Russian River Supplication

Posted 03 June 2013 - 05:12 PM

I am having a similar issue on a lg made kenmore.. ... one thing to check is your pcb cover. If it is plastic, there is a possibility of interference with the board. see
http://appliantology...ittent-problem/
The cover was on back order and I will know if it fixes the problem soon

 

Thanks, but mine has a metal cover. 

 

Have there been any fault codes displayed, er ff or anything else?

 

I have not seen any fault codes. 

 

BK



#5 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

    Sho' Nuff Chozin

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 4,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bells Two Hearted

Posted 03 June 2013 - 05:38 PM

Then I can't think of anything other than the board. Can you tell if this happens after defrost... and do the lights on the interface dim out when it's off?

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,046 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 03 June 2013 - 08:05 PM

The main PCB is failing to start the compressor.  This is verified by the fact that you have to cycle power to get the compressor to run.  When you cycle power, it initiates a main PCB self-test, which includes starting the compressor.  Beyond the self test, it's not starting the compressor.   Go ahead and replace the main PCB:  http://www.repaircli...mber=LFC22740ST

 

 

Main-Control-Board-EBR36222901-00787886.



#7 BK1017

BK1017

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Russian River Supplication

Posted 04 June 2013 - 08:33 AM

The main PCB is failing to start the compressor.  This is verified by the fact that you have to cycle power to get the compressor to run.  When you cycle power, it initiates a main PCB self-test, which includes starting the compressor.  Beyond the self test, it's not starting the compressor.   Go ahead and replace the main PCB:  http://www.repaircli...mber=LFC22740ST

 

 

Main-Control-Board-EBR36222901-00787886.

Got it. Thanks. Replacing the board seems like a basic plug and play job. Any concerns when doing this? 

 

Since the tech's visit, the fridge has continued to operate like normal. He must have a magic touch. 

 

BK



#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,046 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 04 June 2013 - 08:47 AM

Got it. Thanks. Replacing the board seems like a basic plug and play job. Any concerns when doing this?

 
 
Static electricity is the big killer of these boards.  Handle only by edges, touch a grounded metal surface before and during replacement, wearing a grounding strap is preferable.  
 
 

Since the tech's visit, the fridge has continued to operate like normal. He must have a magic touch.

If it ain't broke, why fix it?






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics