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Spin Problems with Whirlpool Cabrio Washer WTW5640XW0


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25 replies to this topic

#1 tadmcmichael

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 07:13 AM

Great site!  Glad I found it.  I am having problems with my Cabrio washer.  It washes fine, but is not spinning correctly.  It will make a noise like it is trying to spin up, then just sits there.  Water does drain from the tub.  I put in new suspension yesterday (hoping that an imbalance was causing it to shut down).  No improvement.  We will reset to the drain and spin cycle and usually it will eventually kick in, sometimes after as many as 6 attempts.  I am fairly mechanically inclined, but these HE washers are way over my head.  I don't want to call out a repairman if the washer is not worth fixing.  It is about 3 years old and was probably $700 new.  Help Please!



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#2 tadmcmichael

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 07:22 AM

One other thing worth mentioning.  I was able to get it into diagnostic mode last night.  All of the lights lit up and "88" came up on the screen.  However, I was not able to get any error codes out, nor was I able to initiate a test cycle.  A link to a service manual would be great.



#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 07:59 AM

Something is either caught between the inner basket and out tub or the tub bearing is borked.  Start by removing the inner basket and checking for FOD.  



#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 08:00 AM

same tech sheets as:

http://appliantology...her-tech-sheet/


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#5 Thirstytech

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 08:22 AM

Something is either caught between the inner basket and out tub or the tub bearing is borked.  Start by removing the inner basket and checking for FOD.  

 

To re-live the old days we could all assemble every morning for a Cabrio FOD walk - make sure and check those pad eyes, too !



#6 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 08:32 AM

Guys!!!! This isn't the direct drive rotor/stator model Cabrio - It's the new VWM unit!!!!!


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 08:47 AM

Guys!!!! This isn't the direct drive rotor/stator model Cabrio - It's the new VWM unit!!!!!

 

 

Good catch, Willie!  Now what's the solution?



#8 MicaBay

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 09:06 AM

Shift aucuator?

#9 Thirstytech

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 09:06 AM

Are you sure it's agitating, too?  Sounds like it could be a capacitor issue.



#10 certified tech group 51

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 09:49 AM

Did one of these critters about a year ago...Was not the shift actuator.................Remove the agitator and put unit into spin.......( There is a 'drive hub', made of aluminum, splines were stripped out ) ........does the splined shaft spin??????............Basket just sits there?????.....P/N  W10291415 worked for me..................



#11 tadmcmichael

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 11:59 AM

It certainly sounds like it is agitating properly.  I guess I could stick something in the safety catch on the lid and watch a cycle.  I didn't explain real well, but the motor sounds like its starting to spin the basket.  As it starts to spin, it's like it "senses" something and then the motor stops and waits.  It doesn't sound like the shaft is spinning, but rather the thing just stops.  It used to spin for a while, then stop, then "sense" how wet the clothes were and adjust the amount of time left in the cycle from there.  I'm sure this is a stupid question, but how do these HE models sense how long to spin?  Is it weighing the clothes before and after some how and stops spinning when it's dry enough?  I don't know what VWM means, but does that mean that there is no point in me taking the basket out to check for FOD?  If it was the capicitor or actuator, would it still agitate correctly?  If the bearing was bad, would it sense the friction and stop it from that?  If so, why no error code?



#12 PDuff

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 01:20 PM

Vertical Modular Washer.  Keep running diagnostic mode for fault codes.  Look for any long drain faults.  The control uses a transducer for water level control and load sensing.  Had one the other day with intermittent problems.  Would fill/wash/drain/spin most of the time.  Finally caught it acting up where it was stuck in sensing and running drain pump.  Diagnostics showed long drain fault.  Pump and pressure tube was ok.  No restriction at sump.  Had to replace control.  Check pressure hose and wire harness.  Control might not sense a fault if it itself is mentally handicapped.



#13 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 01:34 PM

Mighty fine and most sublime words of wisdom, Brother PDuff.  Domo!   :dude:



#14 tadmcmichael

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 02:26 PM

Thanks for all of the help guys.  So at this stage I shouldn't worry about looking for any obstruction under the basket or damage to the bearing?  If I still can't get any codes out via diagnostic, should I just go ahead and change the little transducer that could be causing my problems?  What's it called on the parts list?



#15 tadmcmichael

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 05:01 PM

PDuff was correct and I did finally get some codes.

 

F7, E1

F0, E2

F0, E5

F7, E7

 

Guessing I want to focus on the F7, E1?  This seems to line up with "Basket Speed Sensor Fault". F7, E7 "Motor Unable to Reach Target RPM" would be caused by that also.  Should I go ahead and order one of those?  I know I also run the risk that it is something on the control panel as well.



#16 PDuff

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 05:12 PM

Perform test 3a and 3b for the motor and shifter.  Sounds like Brothers micabay and ctg are pointing you in the right direction.  Check the shaft splines and shifter motor operation.  Have replaced drive motor and/or shifter motor in the past for similar symptoms.  Well done on retrieving those faults.  That alone can be a chore.


Edited by PDuff, 04 June 2013 - 05:13 PM.


#17 nickfixit

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 05:14 PM

If you remove the actuator(mode shifter and optical speed sensor) you will see the inner ring that is part of the transmission. Some of these have broken free of their mountings and do not turn with the transmission anymore. This causes the faults you are seeing. Turn the trans pulley and see if the ring turns, or turn the trans pulley, and see if you can hold that ring so it does not turn. If so, you need a new gear case.


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#18 tadmcmichael

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 06:35 PM

The shaft looked fine after taking off the pulley.  Everything turns nice and smooth.  After taking off the actuator, the inner ring turns with the shaft of the transmission.  Unless one of you has another idea, I am going to pick up a new actuator and see what happens.



#19 fairbank56

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 06:48 PM

 I guess I could stick something in the safety catch on the lid and watch a cycle. 

  Won't work on these washers. You have to remove the strike from the lid and place it into the lid lock. It has a magnet in it that operates the lid switch and will be "received" properly when the lid lock operates. 

 

Eric



#20 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 07:12 PM

unless you have a big enough magnet handy    :whistling:


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