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Fisher & Paykel EcoSmart GWL15 Fault code 49


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10 replies to this topic

#1 speedoxxl

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Posted 06 June 2013 - 05:09 PM

We bought our F & P GWL15 in 2007, and I like it very much.  It failed about 2 weeks out of it's 6 yr warranty.  I first noticed a problem one morning when I took out a load of laundry that had washed the night before - most of the load was "spun" dry, but the part under the area where the water comes out of the machine was dripping wet. I could feel a slow drip out of the area where water enters the drum of the washer.  I was able to wash another load or two before the washer wouldn't start any more and the fault code 49 was displayed.

 

My husband and I did a lot of research on the web.  My husband is very electronically savvy, and we feel comfortable ordering a part and replacing it in the machine.  But, we would not go so far as trying to repair the motor control board itself.  However, we don't know for sure what part to replace - the water valves or the motor control module, or something else entirely.

 

In troubleshooting the problem, we believe the valve harnesses are correctly fastened to the valves, the pins are not bent

backwards, and the valve coils are not faulty (open circuit).  When in diagnostic mode, pressing the Temp Up and Temp Down buttons DO NOT open the hot or cold water valves - no water runs into the drum.  The pump runs briefly when the Regular button is pressed, but it doesn't stay on to be turned off by pressing Regular again - I don't know how it's supposed to work in diagnostic mode, so I don't know if what I'm seeing is correct.
 
I would appreciate any help you can give me.  Thanks!
 
 

 



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#2 nickfixit

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Posted 06 June 2013 - 09:03 PM

replace the fill valves, not the control. If you want to try a test, put some dry clothes in the washer and just leave it there overnight, with the washer unplugged. If you find it wet inside, you know the valve has failed to hold closed mechanically, the normal mode of failure for this part.


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#3 speedoxxl

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 03:38 PM

Thanks, nickfixit.  I've ordered the part.  I put the washer in diagnostic mode this morning and tried the valves and pump again, with the same results as before.  This time I left it plugged in, in diag mode.  This afternoon I tried the pump again, and this time it stayed on and pumped most of the water out of the basket.  Interesting to me that the wait seemed to make the difference.  Valves still didn't open/close, tho.  So, if I left the pump on in manual mode, would it stop on its own, when the right amount of water had been pumped out?  Also, if it's the cold water valve that is failing, (code 49), why doesn't the hot water valve work in manual/diag mode?  When we had the display panel off & looked at the h/c valves, it looked to my husband like it was hard to get the valves off/out, to replace.  But I've read other entries that said it was easy to replace.  Is it hard or easy?  Can you point me to instructions for replacing the h/c valves?

 

I read most of the topics about GWL15 on the forum today, and I can see I came to the right place - lots of smart beer drinkers out there to help me!  Thanks again for your help!



#4 J5

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 09:23 PM

firstly you have a mechanical fault with the water valves in that they leak water

 

you really need to measure the coils of the water valve and check the ohms around 60ohhms iirc

 

if they are open circuit then you have an answer to possible 49

 

you may also have a fault with the control board and replacing the valves may not fix the fault



#5 speedoxxl

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 09:32 PM

Husband put the DVM on the coils of the water valve and got the 60 ohms.  Is there a way to tell if the problem is the valves or the control board, without replacing the parts?  



#6 J5

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 11:06 PM

if you got 60 ohms on each coil then the problem you have with fault 49 is the control module not a fault with the valves

 

 

so now consider regarding costs do you replace the machine ?



#7 nickfixit

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Posted 10 June 2013 - 09:20 PM

Knowing the Ohms are good doesn't mean the valves have not failed mechanically , you'll need to see if proper voltage is being sent to them. FP is known to have the control fail when a peripheral part takes a dive. You may need the valves and the control. 


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#8 speedoxxl

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 11:26 AM

Many thanks to J5 and nickfixit.  I have both the valves and the control board on order.  After considering the cost, I decided to go ahead with the cost of the parts and see how the repair goes.  This after I remembered hearing a "funny noise"  in recent wash cycles - maybe another expensive fix in the (near)future.  Don't ask for any details - I can't run the machine right now to collect information!  But, I do have a dollar amount in mind for how much I'm willing to put into this washer.  

 

As I said in an earlier post, I may need some help replacing the valves - other people have said it's easy, but it wasn't immediately obvious to my husband how that part is replaced.  So I may need a bit more help. 



#9 J5

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 04:15 AM

im not familiar with your particular model number as its a US model number

 

i can tell you i have never ever checked voltage at valves

 

the older aquasmart machine controllers had a fuse inside somewhere that was a one use , if the pump became jammed it would blow the fuse

 

from what i have been told the newer controllers have a self resetting fuse to prevent this issue

 

either way with a 49 on a aquasmart , if i replace the controller i check the pump is ok and quite often it is full of crap



#10 speedoxxl

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 06:59 PM

Well, the water valves and controller board have arrived and have been installed.  My first load of laundry is in the dryer, and the second is in the washer - I'm not usually so enthusiastic about doing the laundry, but this is a BIG DEAL!  I got the valves yesterday & replacing them did not fix the problem.  Control board went in today, and so far, so good.  We will keep the old valves because the part possibly was not broken, and we'll keep the controller, in case husband wants to try to fix it - thers's a video how-to on youtube that shows how to troubleshoot the boards and solder in new parts.  Plus we keep almost everything on general principle (I've been watching "Hoarders"  on TV this afternoon and should maybe re-think that principle).

 

Thanks again for the support!



#11 DADoESTX

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Posted 16 June 2013 - 07:18 PM

J5 .... GWL15 is an EcoSmart agitator machine, not an AquaSmart.

 

 

speedoxxl ... The pump should keep running in diagnostic mode (via the Regular button) until it's shut off by pressing Regular again.  It does not shut off by itself when the water is drained when testing in Diagnostics.

 

Check your pump again in Diagnostics now after you've changed the board.  If it is erratic either in Diagnostics or when running a load, then the pump may need replacement.  Also highly recommended to *visually* check the pump on a regular basis to confirm there's no evidence of leaking .... pump obviously wet, rusting, or dried mineral deposits.  DO NOT ignore a bad pump, it can short-out and zap the (new) controller board.  I don't believe GWL15 includes fuse protection on the pump circuit.  Replacement pumps (and possibly control boards) now are shipping with a retrofit fuse that is spliced into one of the pump wires in the console.






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