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LG refrigerator LFX25975ST error code er CO


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7 replies to this topic

#1 wheresmycoldbeer

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 02:15 PM

Hey Friends,

 

The display was reading  er CO with no ice or water. being dispenced.

Which may be a bad/intermittent connection between the main and display boards.

 

When I opened the left dispncer door, the error code would go away but return 30 seconds later (timed it).

That gave me hope that the problem is just a pinched wire.

 

I removed the hinge cover (at which point the door open sensor is at the open position because it is attached to the cover.)

Jossled the wirings. Re-installed hinge cover.

Same error reading.

 

Unplugged the wire connections, waited a minute and plugged it back in, hoping that it was a loose connector by the hinge.

The led display went to normal, then 30secs. later it read er CO again.

 

Unplugging the unit from the power source, for a couple minutes,  will do the same thing, ie normal display, then error code

 

I opened the rear panel and temporarily removed the middle wiring connector that goes to the display and the same sequence of results.

 

I removed the water/ice dispencer assembly and got to the led board and wiring connections.

I removed the wiring connections, one small 4 pronged connector was not locked in tight, so I thought that there was the problem.

Removing the wiring harness that comes from the top hinge appears as PITA, so I hope I don't have to replace that.

I plugged them all back in, then re-attached the whole assembly, thanks for the tutorial on the dispencer removal.

Same problem, and no ice or water.

 

So the only thing I have not checked is the continuity of the wires gouing from the top (hinge) of the dispencer door to the back of the dispencer

assembly.

 

I am  hoping that this is a usual problem and that there may be a standard solution for resolving the issue.

 

LG LFX25975ST/01, bought in 2010

 

Thanks for any help



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#2 Applianceman97

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 04:21 PM

That code is a communication error. There should be a pulsing 5v dc to the display board. I believe you can check this under the hinge cover to the freezer. Dont know ecacly which wire to check in my head. I have the info at my shop. When I get the info I will post again

Edited by applianceman97, 07 June 2013 - 04:22 PM.

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#3 BryanS

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 09:52 PM

More than likely a broken wire in the door. I don't believe you can just change the harness.

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 07:15 AM

This troubleshooting flowchart may help:

 

gallery_4_4_181038.png



#5 wheresmycoldbeer

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 07:32 PM

Samurai,

 

Thanks for the detailed flowchart help. This is realy what I was looking for.



#6 wheresmycoldbeer

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Posted 17 June 2013 - 03:06 PM

Friends, The problem was a shorted wire near the top by the hinge of the door. That is a bad design if the wires break after two to three years. I followed the flowchart above, and since I got voltage levels up to step 3, I purchased and installed a new display board as per the flowchart. The er CO message did not go away. As it turns out, the connector to the board as shown in the flowchart is different in the model refrigerator I have. When I have more time I will try to take a picture and post it to this thread. There are a total of six wires. I checked for continuity on the bundle of wires to the board. As in my initial hunch, there was one wire that had no continuity from the top of the door to the connector of the pcb board. It was not one of the wires that I had checked for voltage while using the flowchart. I ran a temporary wire, on the outside of the refrigerator,from the connector on the top of the door to the display board. I installed the original pcb board and voila, everything works with out an error. With water and ice dispensed! Now I got to figure out how to run a new wire down, inside the door's hinge conduit, to the back of the dispenser housing. I tried running a wire inside the conduit and it goes down to the level of where it should be. However, the original bundle was installed from the inside and that opening is not accessible anymore. I will have to drill a hole on the plastic housing and draw the wire out from there, then pack that with a bit of insulation foam. The wire I used to fish into the tube is a thin solid wire, maybe a 22g. I will need to find a more flexible wire to use for a permanent repair. If anyone can suggest what wire, I am all ears. Thanks,

#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 17 June 2013 - 03:51 PM

here's a thread with some pictures of a repair on a GE Fridge Door Hinge Wire repair.

I don't know if it will give you any ideas on your LG Fridge,

http://appliantology...r-display-dead/


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#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 17 June 2013 - 10:02 PM

Friends,The problem was a shorted wire near the top by the hinge of the door.


Great find! These wire problems can be especially hard to catch. Thanks for posting your findings because this is sure to help someone else coming along in the future with the same problem.




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