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Richelle Fatheree

Samsung washer - no power

33 posts in this topic

I have the same exact problem - same washer. I don't know that there was a lightening strike, but my housekeeper said the washer stopped mid-cycle. I've replaced the sub PCB and display board. It turned on one time for a brief second and then went dark. I can't get it to turn on again at all. There is current running through everything. Do I need to replace the main PCB? Ugh! Can't even get power to run quick test mode.

 

Thank you for any help!

 

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Splitting this off into a new topic.  

 

Are you getting 120vac at the blue and white wire at the main PCB?  If not, then you have a bad noise filter.  

 

Please post your complete BOM.  

 

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Okay. Hoping BOM is the model number. If so, it's WF448AAP/XAA.

 

If I'm doing it right (big if) it seems that I'm getting about 130 at the blue and white wires. My PCB is reversed from the one on the service manual. From the diagram, it looks like I'm putting the probes in the main power relay switch. It looks like the Reactor Connection Port (CN1) is related to the noise filter, but my wires to that are both red. I'm getting nada there. Here is a link to photos of my board and the upside down pic I'm working from. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B4ZiHDaofxLnRE1XbVU4RWZjQWM&usp=sharing Tried to upload, but they're all too big. 

 

Thanks so much for your help!

 

Richelle

Edited by Richelle Fatheree

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Good pictures! Okay, in CN2, just below the red CN1 in your first and third photos, are you getting 120vac between pins 1 and 2, black to yellow?

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More like 50, which I just found out is plenty to give yourself a nice jolt!  :woot:

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I've ordered the noise filter. Is there a way to work around the bad one so I can do laundry? I can stand a little noise if I can wash clothes before the part arrives.

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 What's the part number of the noise filter you ordered?

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01375341.jpg

 

 

Looks like you'd want to jumper 3 to 1 and 4 to 2 to bypass the noise filter.  I wouldn't run it this way very long because you may damage the main PCB.  But it's a good confirmation test to make sure the noise filter is the problem.  If the washer runs with the noise filter bypassed, then you know it's the problem.  

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This is awesome. I'm going to give it a try and will let you know. I am truly amazed that you are willing to offer your help so generously. Thank you from the bottom of my heart (and my full laundry hamper.)

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Glad to do it, that's why we's here!   :dude:

 

Make sure you're using an insulated jumper, of the same gauge as the power cord conductor.  Alligator clip jumpers work well for this.    

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In that case, I'll need to go to the hardware store tomorrow. Have alligator clips, but not sure I have the proper gauge jumper. Thank you and have a great evening! At least here, it's beer:thirty.

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Bad news. The noise filter came today. I installed it and..... nothing. So now I've replaced the display board, sub PCB and noise filter and the washer still won't turn on. Should I order the main board now? Very frustrated. Thanks for any help!

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Kinda a shot in the dark, but have you checked the resistance of the heater?

Sometimes when you can't figure out what is wrong, you need to figure out what is right.

Edited by micabay

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Did you try jumpering out the pins on the old noise connector?  If it still didn't start after jumpering them out, then that showed the problem lies elsewhere.

 

And not to worry:  any parts ordered through this site can be returned for a refund, even electrical parts that have been installed.

 

Here's the Fast Track manual for your washer:  http://appliantology.org/files/file/69-samsung-wf448xaa-washer-fast-track-troubleshooting-manual/

 

If you're getting 120vac between CN2, pin 1 and CN10, pin 1, then the noise filter is passing voltage to the main PCB and this would indicate a bad main PCB.  

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Thank you Micabay and Samurai.

 

I didn't try jumpering the noise filter because I was afraid of damaging the PCB if it wasn't already damaged. I guess now I don't need to worry about that. I will give it a try. I'm wondering about the switches or whatever these things are called (photos below). I haven't figured out which are NO and which are NC, but only some of them register Ohms with my multimeter. The heater is one of those that does not. 

 

Do these have little fuses inside of them? If they are NC, then I would assume they would show continuity when the machine is off. I don't know how to close those that are NO. Pushing buttons does nothing since the machine won't turn on. I know I'm out of my league here, but last time I tried to have a repair man out, it was a disaster. He had no idea what to do, so I figured I have no idea what to do either, but I don't charge $150 to not know.  :biggrin:

 

I'm looking for someone to come out now, but will keep trying to fix it myself now.

 

Thank you for your help. I'm going to investigate those "switches" and see if that's where the problem could lie.

 

0B4ZiHDaofxLnRE1XbVU4RWZjQWM if this doesn't work, you can see the photos here: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B4ZiHDaofxLnRE1XbVU4RWZjQWM&usp=sharing

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To clarify, Micabay - I have not checked the resistance of the heater itself - just the leads. Looks like I will need to take off the back cover, too.

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. I haven't figured out which are NO and which are NC, but only some of them register Ohms with my multimeter. The heater is one of those that does not. 

 

Do these have little fuses inside of them? If they are NC, then I would assume they would show continuity when the machine is off. I don't know how to close those that are NO. Pushing buttons does nothing since the machine won't turn on. I know I'm out of my league here, but last time I tried to have a repair man out, it was a disaster. He had no idea what to do, so I figured I have no idea what to do either, but I don't charge $150 to not know.  :biggrin:

 

I'm looking for someone to come out now, but will keep trying to fix it myself now.

 

 

 

 

 

In your photo switch3.jpg, your leads are in a relay.  The relay is a switch that is electrically controlled by the board itself and is not separately replaceable.  IOW, If a relay on the board is bad, you replace the whole board. 

 

NC means normally closed and so NC contacts should have continuity in their de-energized or unactuated state, aka when they are "at rest."  

 

See if you're getting 120vac between CN2, pin 1 and CN10, pin 1.  If you are, then this means the main PCB is getting power, but not doing anything with it.  

 

Also check the door lock switch, Connector CN4 Pin 1 to CN4 Pin 3.  See the 3rd page of the Fast Track I linked you to previously.  

 

 

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That makes sense - so the NC ones should show continuity and the NO should not (when the machine is not turned on.)

Checked the door lock switch - have continuity there. I don't have a CN10. Would that be called something else on my machine?

 

If you meant CN2 pin 1 and RY1(main relay) pin 1, I DO get 120 v.

Edited by Richelle Fatheree

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That makes sense - so the NC ones should show continuity and the NO should not (when the machine is not turned on.)

 

 

Yes.

 

 

Checked the door lock switch - have continuity there. I don't have a CN10. Would that be called something else on my machine?

 

 

 

Must be, I'm going by the Fast Track manual and on the diagram it looks like CN10 but it's also the white wire on the power relay.  To help navigate the

board, I've taken your photo and added the main PCB map out from the service manual.  

 

gallery_4_5_1031324.jpg

 

 

The idea is that we're trying to verify whether or not the main PCB is getting power.  

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Here's another diagram that may help:

 

gallery_4_5_851789.png

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Okay - I ran all the tests on pp 3-4 of the fast track that I could. Obviously couldn't check voltage with stuff on since nothing will turn on.

Here are my results in photo form, which I think might be easiest to read.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4ZiHDaofxLnUHFoSEZFSENxR00/edit?usp=sharing

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4ZiHDaofxLnZUotZDhfdlY0ZUk/edit?usp=sharing

 

On test 1 for motor and test 2 for Door Switch, Water Level Sensor, Door Lock, Heater Relay and Steam Heater Relay, my needle swung all the way to the right which I take to mean 0 ohm. (???? I am using a GB Instruments GMT-312 multimeter. You can see what it looks like here: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4ZiHDaofxLnZGV5N0ZaNkRON00/edit?usp=sharing

 

On test 1 for A/C power, I got about 50-55 VAC instead of 120. 

 

Test 2 for Door Unlock showed about 100 instead of - 57.

 

Test 2 for the Water Valve showed about 1.2. 

 

I'm afraid I might be doing something wrong, as it seems like a lot of these readings are not what they should be.

 

 

On test 2 for Water Temperature Thermistor, my needle hit about 9 instead of 50-57.

Edited by Richelle Fatheree

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If you meant CN2 pin 1 and RY1(main relay) pin 1, I DO get 120 v.

 

 

Good, let's follow this for right now.  

 

If you're getting 120vac between CN2 pin 1 and RY1 pin 1 (the blue wire) that means that 1) you're getting a valid supply to the machine, 2) the noise filter is good (which we knew), and 3) the power relay on the main PCB is good because it's making a connection from Pin 1 to Pin 2.   This is understood to mean that you have one probe in CN 2 Pin 1 and another probe at RY1 Pin 1 and you're reading the voltage that way.  If this is not the case, then you're not measuring it correctly.  Speaking of which...

 

On the door lock resistance checks, it sounds like you're measuring two different things.  For example, when it says, "CN3 Pine 3 and CN3 Pin 1" that's a single measurement with your probes at each location.  You're reporting two readings, for example, "nada" and "CN3 - all the way to the right."  I don't know what this means.  

 

On test 1 for A/C power, I got about 50-55 VAC instead of 120. 

 

Between CN2 Pins 1 and 2?  Whether the Power On button is pressed in or not?

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Ah, I was reading the instructions wrong when I wrote "nada". Somehow I read CN2 pins 1 & 3. When I did it correctly, I got the readings ("all the way to the right" and "about 100".)

 

AC Power Check result was about 55VAC between pins 1 & 2 on CN2 with the power plug plugged in but not pushing the power button. Do I need to push the power button at the same time? I need another hand or two.  :smile: 
 

I broke down and scheduled a repairman for tomorrow afternoon. (Was lucky to find someone who works on Samsung.) Also ordered the main board in case I need it. 

 

If the Power Relay is good, does that mean I do NOT need a new PCB? If that's not it, I am at a loss...

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Other things besides the power relay can fail on the main PCB and make it behave the way you're seeing. As a general rule, a main PCB that won't go into diagnostic mode is prima facia bad. So it think that's where we're headed. I was just trying to make sure with some simple tests.

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