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Samsung washer - no power


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32 replies to this topic

#21 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 01:11 PM

Here's another diagram that may help:

 

gallery_4_5_851789.png



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#22 Richelle Fatheree

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 02:19 PM

Okay - I ran all the tests on pp 3-4 of the fast track that I could. Obviously couldn't check voltage with stuff on since nothing will turn on.

Here are my results in photo form, which I think might be easiest to read.

https://docs.google....dit?usp=sharing

https://docs.google....dit?usp=sharing

 

On test 1 for motor and test 2 for Door Switch, Water Level Sensor, Door Lock, Heater Relay and Steam Heater Relay, my needle swung all the way to the right which I take to mean 0 ohm. (???? I am using a GB Instruments GMT-312 multimeter. You can see what it looks like here: https://docs.google....dit?usp=sharing

 

On test 1 for A/C power, I got about 50-55 VAC instead of 120. 

 

Test 2 for Door Unlock showed about 100 instead of - 57.

 

Test 2 for the Water Valve showed about 1.2. 

 

I'm afraid I might be doing something wrong, as it seems like a lot of these readings are not what they should be.

 

 

On test 2 for Water Temperature Thermistor, my needle hit about 9 instead of 50-57.


Edited by Richelle Fatheree, 12 June 2013 - 02:24 PM.


#23 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 08:55 PM

 

If you meant CN2 pin 1 and RY1(main relay) pin 1, I DO get 120 v.

 

 

Good, let's follow this for right now.  

 

If you're getting 120vac between CN2 pin 1 and RY1 pin 1 (the blue wire) that means that 1) you're getting a valid supply to the machine, 2) the noise filter is good (which we knew), and 3) the power relay on the main PCB is good because it's making a connection from Pin 1 to Pin 2.   This is understood to mean that you have one probe in CN 2 Pin 1 and another probe at RY1 Pin 1 and you're reading the voltage that way.  If this is not the case, then you're not measuring it correctly.  Speaking of which...

 

On the door lock resistance checks, it sounds like you're measuring two different things.  For example, when it says, "CN3 Pine 3 and CN3 Pin 1" that's a single measurement with your probes at each location.  You're reporting two readings, for example, "nada" and "CN3 - all the way to the right."  I don't know what this means.  

 

On test 1 for A/C power, I got about 50-55 VAC instead of 120. 

 

Between CN2 Pins 1 and 2?  Whether the Power On button is pressed in or not?


#24 Richelle Fatheree

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 09:22 PM

Ah, I was reading the instructions wrong when I wrote "nada". Somehow I read CN2 pins 1 & 3. When I did it correctly, I got the readings ("all the way to the right" and "about 100".)

 

AC Power Check result was about 55VAC between pins 1 & 2 on CN2 with the power plug plugged in but not pushing the power button. Do I need to push the power button at the same time? I need another hand or two.  :smile: 
 

I broke down and scheduled a repairman for tomorrow afternoon. (Was lucky to find someone who works on Samsung.) Also ordered the main board in case I need it. 

 

If the Power Relay is good, does that mean I do NOT need a new PCB? If that's not it, I am at a loss...



#25 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 10:08 PM

Other things besides the power relay can fail on the main PCB and make it behave the way you're seeing. As a general rule, a main PCB that won't go into diagnostic mode is prima facia bad. So it think that's where we're headed. I was just trying to make sure with some simple tests.

#26 Richelle Fatheree

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 11:06 PM

We should know tomorrow! I'll install the new board and let you know what happens. Crossing my fingers...

 

Thanks so much for all your help. I'm learning a lot even if I haven't fixed it yet.



#27 Richelle Fatheree

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 01:01 PM

Latest update: repairman came today and says it must be the main control board. He also said in 13 years I'm the first customer he's ever had who took the top off the washer. Kicking myself for doubting myself, but it's nice to know I'm on the right track - thanks to the board's help! As soon as the board arrives, I'll let you know how it goes.



#28 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 02:04 PM

Latest update: repairman came today and says it must be the main control board.

 

 

How did he determine that?

 

 He also said in 13 years I'm the first customer he's ever had who took the top off the washer. 

 

Taking the top off a Samsung washer is like popping a cold one for an Appliantologist!  

 

 

 As soon as the board arrives, I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Looking forward to it!  



#29 Richelle Fatheree

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 03:04 PM

LOL! He determined it the same way you and I determined it - new sub, new display board, new noise filter - only thing left is the main control board. :) If the new main board doesn't make the machine work, I'm buying a new one.



#30 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 03:52 PM

LOL! He determined it the same way you and I determined it - new sub, new display board, new noise filter - only thing left is the main control board. :)

 

 

That's all!?  Did he even open his meter case and do any measurements at the main PCB?  If not, did you pay this guy anything?



#31 Richelle Fatheree

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 04:13 PM

Basically he waved his current detector around, checked to see if the new display board, sub control board and noise meter were installed correctly (they were - thank you) and said it couldn't be anything else. I asked about the motor, but he said that this machine doesn't have a motor, but described something else (that sounded like a motor to me.) I asked him if it could be anything other than the main board and he said "no". 

 

He didn't do any tests like the ones I did yesterday. I was hoping he would because I wanted to watch and see if I'd been doing it correctly. I specifically told him about getting 50 VAC instead of 120 at the A/C because I thought I might have done the test wrong. He did not re-do it.

 

Now I feel stupid that I paid for the service call, but I didn't think I had an option.



#32 Richelle Fatheree

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 04:42 PM

Success!

 

:rock_band: 

 

I just installed the PCB and my washing machine works! Thank you so much for all your help - way more than I ever would have expected. I almost did it with the manuals, fast track and your instructions/suggestions. I've learned a lot and now I have more confidence to take on my next repair. I LOVE appliantology.org. I've been telling lots of friends about the site because I'm so enthusiastic.

 

  :thanks:

 

Thank you for being there and being such a great teacher/Samurai! :samurai:

:woohoo:



#33 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 09:11 PM

Don't feel stupid-- you're stil gaining confidence in the Craft.

Great job sticking with it and seeing it through to the end! Most people would have given up before now. Thanks for letting us know how it turned out. :dude:




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