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Maytag Neptune Dryer Cracked Element


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5 replies to this topic

#1 Jim O'Sullivan

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 02:26 PM

I have an electric Maytag dryer (Mod# MDE9700AYW) that has gone through 2 thermal fuses (part #35001193) in the last year. I just replaced with the second one and it dried one load and, Kaput! No continuity. All the other related components (thermostat and element) have continuity, however, I was reading that if the element warps and arcs, it can cause the fuse to fail. So, I removed the entire heating box with the coil inside and took it apart to inspect. At this point I should mention that last year this problem was caused by a fire inside the dryer which, thankfully, remained within the dryer (new house to us, old house overall, roof-venting hadn't been cleaned in years, no doubt.) I am older and wiser for this now and clean the vent and the dryer out once a year. ANYWAYS, I noticed that the metal board upon which the coils are mounted inside the heater duct is cracked in 3 places. Will this cause the element to arc and fry my fuses repeatedly, or am I more likely looking at a new part that was a lemon? Like I said, the element itself has continuity, reading at 10.7 when set at 200 ohms, which, I'll admit I have no idea if this is normal, high, low, etc.; I know just enough to be dangerous but not lethal! Would it be safe/appropriate to repair the cracks with JB Weld? Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Jim



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#2 kdog

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 03:02 PM

This is an indication that the element has been overheating due to an inadequate exhaust vent. I have never seen a roof vent that worked properly (moisture laden air will always "fall") you likely need to replace that element, clean the whole dryer out and reroute the vent so it exits straight out the house as short as possible with as few elbows as possible.
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#3 Jim O'Sullivan

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 03:16 PM

Thanks, kdog! I'm sorry, I should've specified that we don't live in that house (or that state) any longer and we are in a house where the venting is straight out the wall, no elbows, one wall width and out. So, my current venting is not the problem. I replaced the fuse last night after I took the dryer apart earlier in the week while waiting for the part, and had cleaned it extensively. With that in mind, do you still think I should replace the whole element or take a chance that I just got a lemon fuse? Like I said, the element has continuity. What about the welding of cracks idea? Thanks!



#4 kdog

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 03:25 PM

Cannot figure out how to post the link from my phone, but order and install part number 35001119


Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 08 June 2013 - 04:05 PM.
Added part link.

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#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 04:05 PM

Cannot figure out how to post the link from my phone, but order and install part number 35001119

 

 

Gotcha covered, Brother kdog!  http://www.repaircli...5001119/1122501



#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 06:22 PM

it may be wise to replace the Heater Element

Did you also OHM to check for Heater shorts to chassis / ground ?

 

Dryer Vent 4" diameter

Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F
Check / clean the Dryer Vent
Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.
Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,
$ 3.99 sometimes on sale for $ 2.99
image_1255.jpg


 

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