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Kenmore Coldspot - Not making ice despite replacing optical sensor, input valves

icemaker optical sensor

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8 replies to this topic

#1 HoboDad

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 03:11 PM

I have a 2002 Kenmore Coldspot side-by-side fridge/freeze - model 10651562102.  Several weeks ago, two unusual things happened at the same time.  1) it wouldn't stop making ice, even after I put the slide on the optical sensor in the "off" position. 2) It would dribble/leak from the supply line, and form a sort of icicle which formed on the ice bin - I guess the water dribbled along the top, and ran forward, landing on the bin. 

Here's what I did:

1) Made sure the water supply line wasn't frozen - removed, checked, replaced.

2) Did the "jumper" thing on the control board to ensure it would go into the forced harvest cylce - no problems.

3) Checked the continuity on the supply valve - seemed OK (btw, the water line to the water dispenser worked fine...good pressure, no leaks)

4) Replaced the water supply valve, just in case the freezer valve was faulty.

5) Replaced the two optics boards (emitter/sensor) since have never seen the LED light on at any time since we had it (even though it made ice!)

 

The unit goes through harvest cycles regularly.  There is no "error" blinking on the optical sensor.  Only problem is when you would expect the unit to call for water, there is no sound indicating the valve is opening (I remember what it sounds like), and no water is dispensed into the ice tray, and no ice being made.

 

So, any ideas on what else needs to be checked out?  Continuity tests to be done that I'm missing?

Thanks for any help here.


Edited by DurhamAppliance, 09 June 2013 - 03:48 PM.
added "106" to the model number


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#2 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 03:41 PM

Based upon what you've found and what you've replaced, it's a good bet the ice maker itself is bad.  First check that the icemaker connections are good. Also put it in harvest mode and then check to see if the valve is energized during the cycle...you said you are not hearing the valve engage but put your meter on the valve connections to see if it gets proper voltage. 


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#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 05:26 PM

http://appliantology...icemaker-w-led/


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#4 HoboDad

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 10:04 PM

Thanks for the replies.  I'll check those suggestions out, and post what I find.



#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 10 June 2013 - 07:30 AM

The ice maker calls for water and gets it during the T-H test harvest but not in "real life?"  That's a bad ice maker by definition as Brother Durham deduced:  http://www.repaircli...2198597/1016069

 

 

Ice-Maker-Assembly-2198597-00878090.jpg



#6 HoboDad

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 04:47 PM

Just to clarify... the icemaker doesn't get water in the T-H mode.

 

Had some time to mess with this again... I manually started harvest mode, and had voltmeter hooked up.  Non-energized reading was 0.4, and when the prongs reached the 12-o'clock position, it jumped to between 7 and 9 volts for about a 7 second period (when it would be calling for water, I assume). Needless to say, valve didn't acutate, and water didn't come out of tube.  Also, just to make sure the (new) inlet valve I got actually worked, I rigged the water dispenser actuator onto the icemaker valve, and sure enough, water came out into icemaker.  So, this tells me the control board is sending voltage at the right time, just not the needed amount (110v) to do the trick.

 

Just to make sure with y'all... does this sound like a new icemaker control board needed?  (below)

 

Control-Module-W10190935-01079006.jpg

 

Thanks for the help here...

HoboDad



#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 05:11 PM

I quit messing with the control modules and just replace the whole icemaker for just a few shekels more.

#8 HoboDad

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 08:28 PM

Good advice here, Samurai.  I just coughed up the few extra and ordered a new unit.

Many thanks!



#9 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 01 July 2013 - 02:07 PM

Always a good idea to replace the entire icemaker, especially if the original is more than 5 years old. Usually by this time, the Teflon coating in the mold is beginning to flake. And as The Samurai said... it's only a few dollars more than just purchasing the module.

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