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Kenmore Natural Gas Dryer -- No Heat


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13 replies to this topic

#1 Ridge

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 06:25 AM

We have a Kenmore Model 78702894 dryer (Gulp! Even under light of flashlight, I could not see a decimal .XXX extension number). I've replace the drum motor on this machine in the past, so I'm thinking I might be able to deal with this also.

Drum rotates fine, but it has just stopped heating.  I'm in search of resources/recommendation for beginning the troubleshooting process, and of course, any of those very simple (Is it plugged in?) checks that might cure it.

Sincerely,

Ridge in New Joisey [Exit 145]


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#2 Pegi

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 06:32 AM

Assuming the source code is 110. meaning this was made by whirlpool and your igniter is not even glowing, check the white plastic thermofuse on the back of the dryer on the vent housing, this will open and the igniter will not come on if the air flow from the dryer is blocked.  If this is not the right prefix or this dryer does not have this fuse or the igniter is coming on relay this information....also if the igniter does not come on and the fuse is good check the igniter with your ohm meter also.
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#3 Ridge

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 06:36 AM

Ahh.  I have found a starting point at http://www.repaircli...com/0100_14.asp

This looks like my machine -- Whirlpool/Kenmore are pretty much the same??

Looks like I need to look for the glow.  It appears that I have to disassemble the whole front of the machine.  True?  (I remember it's a strange (well, counterintuiteve to me) process, starting up on top somewhere.)  R.


#4 Ridge

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 06:39 AM

Thnak you sir. Is there a good way to check for igniter function without disassembling the entire box???  R.

#5 Pegi

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 07:00 AM

Sears site is down right now for maintance so I cannot see what style your dryer is. If the bottom panel can be removed you can see if from there, if it is a one piece front see if there is a removable peep hole block on the left side under the door...Sears makes nothing, this is why we need the source code BEFORE THE MODEL NUMBER to see what brand this really is..
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#6 Ridge

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 02:51 PM

[user=533]Pegi[/user] wrote:

Sears site is down right now for maintance so I cannot see what style your dryer is. If the bottom panel can be removed you can see if from there, if it is a one piece front see if there is a removable peep hole block on the left side under the door...

Yup. it's the peephole variety.  Nary a glimmer inside

 Pegi also said: Sears makes nothing, this is why we need the source code BEFORE THE MODEL NUMBER to see what brand this really is..

It is 110.

I inspected the back of the machine pretty thoroughly and couldn't find the thermo-fuse. Do I need to remove the back panel, or do I need to start opening up the front?

Ridge (at home in New Joisey)



#7 Pegi

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 04:34 PM

If the back of the dryer is not rivited on yes, remove the back panel, the thermofuse is on the left side on the vent housing, is a white plastic fuse....if the back panel is rivited on, do not approach with your dremel tool........110 means this is a Whirlpool dryer....
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#8 Ridge

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 06:00 PM

OK. Back is attached with sheet metal screws. Found the therma-fuse down on lower left (facing back of the machine) side.  Tested it for continuity in place, not a flicker.  Removed and tested again (ohmmeter setting at 200 range -- reading shows 1 with probes not touching anything and also show 1 touching the contacts on the fuse (show .06 when crossed or placed against a conductor).

So, replace the therma-fuse? 

What concerns me is *why* it would fail.  There wasn't any lint in the exhaust tube (or whatever you should properly call it) and the cold air was blasting through from outside, so I don't imagine there are any blockages, though I'll go out and double check to be sure.

Any other spots to check before replacing it and hoping for the best?

Sincerely,

R (Still in New Joisey and paying nearly double for my gas/electric this winter)


#9 Pegi

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 06:04 PM

They can go out for A-...it is old and tired like me....B-...it got too hot and opened because the vent was blocked or the cycling thermostat is not opening when it should...C...it just wanted to.....replace it and sthe cycling thermostat beside it and see how it does...;)
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#10 Ridge

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 03:39 AM

Sounds like a plan.  I'll report the results.

Sincerely,

Ridge [still in New Joisey]


#11 Ridge

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Posted 10 January 2006 - 04:45 AM

Recults: Dry clothes.

All seems well with the world after two or three loads. I found out that my dryer vent doesn't have a flapper to keep cold air out, so I'm going to replace that and the rest of the vent hose which is old and not up to spec (plastic, not aluminum -- and somewhere in my research, I saw that was not approved.

Thank you Master Pegi and the rest of the appliantologists. I will find a way to make a modest contribution to the beer fund.

Sincerely,

Ridge [Exit 145] in New Joisey

#12 Pegi

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Posted 10 January 2006 - 07:29 AM

Cool, thanks for letting us know....gas dryers have to use metal duct tubing so it can contain a flash fire.....might want to keep that cold air from entering the vent from the outside, this can keep dryers from heating also, and I would assume kick the heat on in your house now and then...;)
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#13 Ridge

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Posted 10 January 2006 - 08:18 AM

Re: Duct.  Does it need to be solid metal, or can it be the flexible aluminum that I've seen? 

Re: Vent -- yes, I was astonished how much cold air was pouring in from outside.  While I was working on it, I stuffed it, but I could feel the air pressure.  Definitely needs a new vent with a door that will seal out the draft.

Thank y'all again very much

Ridge (still in New Joisey, but who was born in Arkansas and appreciates gentle Southern courtesy (not to mention technical assistance))


#14 Pegi

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Posted 10 January 2006 - 08:49 AM

:P..I hear thru the grape vine that smooth is better than ridges, will not catch lint...;)
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