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Frigidaire freezer


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3 replies to this topic

#1 fairbank56

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 03:14 PM

  Model number LFFH21F7HWG serial number WB12951500

 

  Got a new electronic control panel for it, thought I could pop old one out but looks like I have to take the entire inner door panel off for access to release the clips?

 

  Symptoms: Noticed freezer running a lot, temp set for 5°F. Have thermometer inside that shows temp ranges from 5° to minus 5°. When it calls for compressor, it comes on and after about 1/2 hour I open door and compressor goes off, temp is minus 5°. Seems like compressor only cuts off if I open door when thermostat is satisfied or it goes into defrost. Tried banging on door and tapping on control panel to see if compressor would go off, no joy. Doesn't seem like bad thermistor would cause this problem, only other thing is the control unit. If I open door before temp gets to minus 5°, compressor does not cut off. So now I just go out into garage every hour and open/close door so compressor doesn't keep running. It stays off til temp gets up to 5° and it comes on as it should. Seems like door switch should only function to turn the light on/off but it appears to "wake up" the compressor control circuitry. Weird. Anyway, got this new control unit but I guess PIA to replace it. Got lots of stuff in the freezer.

 

Eric

 

Freezer.jpg


Edited by fairbank56, 11 June 2013 - 03:17 PM.


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#2 PDuff

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 05:09 PM

Was checking to see if your model had a main control back by the compressor like some of the Frigidaire built Kenmore uprights.  Look like yours just has the door control so replacing that should cure all.  Use a putty knife to remove control from door.  It's a pain but doable.  Door is foamed in insulation.  Symptoms are similar to some GE refrigerator control boards when going bad.  Compressor and evap fan run until you press ice or water lever at dispenser then they shut off.



#3 fairbank56

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 07:06 PM

  Thanks PDuff, I had already tried the putty knife thing, actually used multiple ones at once but I'm afraid if I pry any harder I'm going to break something. Don't want to break the current control cause if this is not the problem, I can send the new control back for refund. The control housing has tabs on it with square holes in them like something on the inside of the door engages with them. If that is the case, no way a putty knife is going to release them. Take a look at the control. If it is similar to ones that you have pryed out without breaking, I will give it another go with a little more force.

 

Eric

 

Freezer1.jpg



#4 PDuff

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 11:47 AM

Use a plastic putty knife and pry out from the bottom.  It does take some force but don't worry it'll work.  Be mindful of the limited length of the wire harness.  New control pops right in.  Sounds like the old control has a stuck key.  That results in a "Fail Safe" mode where the freezer will run at -10 degrees and defrost every 12 hours for 30 minutes.  Sometimes "E7" and temp will flash on display.  If you have an open or shorted thermistor, those fault codes will take precedence over the fail safe mode.  Those faults are "E9" and temp (open thermistor) or "E8" and temp (shorted thermistor).  New control oughta do it.  Freeze on, my brother.






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