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Performa side by side - fridge side not cooling


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18 replies to this topic

#1 tlo2009

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 12:10 PM

Have a Performa by maytag side by side fridge modle psd262lhew. Frezer is fine - fan working etc. but fridge part is not cooling. No air coming from the frezer side - but I notice when the frezer door is open - the cool air does flow - but not when the frezer door closes. Strange.

 

Anyway, I am thinking control thermostate or any other ideas??

Thx.



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#2 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 12:23 PM

very nice description of the door open/ closed conundrum ...remove the crisper drawers and find the return air damper assm.....see the blue mylar flap? should be able to open and close. if it is stuck closed....thats yer problem.
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#3 tlo2009

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 12:31 PM

very nice description of the door open/ closed conundrum ...remove the crisper drawers and find the return air damper assm.....see the blue mylar flap? should be able to open and close. if it is stuck closed....thats yer problem.

I had the drawers out last night but don't remember see such a mylar object - but I guess I was not really looking for it and it was late and I was tired.....you know how that is. I will check it out. Is this something that will need to be replaced or maybe just stuck?



#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 12:34 PM

.

 

 

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#5 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 12:48 PM

might be blue ,might be clear, might be yellow....will be there ,and will be stuck closed.
just free it up and wipe off any sticky gookus on the bottom edge.
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#6 tlo2009

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 12:58 PM

might be blue ,might be clear, might be yellow....will be there ,and will be stuck closed.
just free it up and wipe off any sticky gookus on the bottom edge.

Yea - I did see some gookus back there - but was too hot and tired to clean it off last night.

 

Thanks for the input.



#7 tlo2009

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 06:22 PM

You are talking about the refrige side - correct? Looked under the crispers drawers - never saw anything like what you described - there was a small "vent" into the freezer back there - but that was it. I also removed the bottom drawer from the freezer side and realized there was quite a bit of build up on the back section - what I would call fuzzy ice build up - I think I saw that term mentioned in another post and is an appropriate term for it.  

 

At any rate - one thing I have to mention is that my wife had more stuff jamed into the frezer than they have a Sams Club - I mean a lot - literally no empty space. There was old food in there from a year or more ago. Anyway - could that have contributed to the problem? Should I manually defrost it and get a lot of the crap out or does this point to something else as a potential problem. By the way - we have another older fridge in our laundry room made by Roper - frezer on top - 20 plus years old and never had one problem with it. Same deal though - my wife has that freezer full as well - with stuff we never eat. I am sure she got it all on sale though - very scary!

thanks.    



#8 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 06:29 PM

Different problem...same outcome. Defrost system failure=clogged coil= no air flow to fresh food side. Yes to restore the cold, ya need to defrost the coil behind that wall in the freezer. Also need to address why the system is not self defrosting.
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#9 tlo2009

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 06:58 PM

Different problem...same outcome. Defrost system failure=clogged coil= no air flow to fresh food side. Yes to restore the cold, ya need to defrost the coil behind that wall in the freezer. Also need to address why the system is not self defrosting.

Any suggestions as to why it's not defrosting?



#10 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 07:08 PM

Only 3 parts of the system...heater, thermostat and timer/ ADC...no time to see which system you have right now...maybe reg will jump in and help ya troubleshoot.
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#11 tlo2009

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 07:39 PM

Only 3 parts of the system...heater, thermostat and timer/ ADC...no time to see which system you have right now...maybe reg will jump in and help ya troubleshoot.

No  problem - thanks. I am defrosting it right now and we will see what happens.



#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 08:39 AM

 I am defrosting it right now and we will see what happens.

 

 

What'll happen is that the box will cool properly for a few days and then warm up again unless the defrost problem is fixed.  

 

Easy test is to manually force defrost and listen for the snap, crackle, pop of condensate dripping off onto the heating element after a few minutes.  Listen carefully, freezer door open.  If nothing, then check to see if you're getting 120vac from the brown wire on the ADC board to neutral.  If yes, and the defrost heater isn't firing up, then the defrost thermostat may be open (most common) or the defrost heater is open (uncommon).  

 

If you're getting voltage at the ADC and the defrost heater is heating, then replace the ADC board because it's failing to initiate defrost. 



#13 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 08:56 AM

PS.  This procedure should work to put the ADC board into defrost, it can be finicky so try it a few times if it doesn't seem to work the first time:

 

 

To Force of Terminate defrost:
Toggle freezer door light switch 5 times within 6 sec.
If cold control is open, a forced defrost will not occur until the cold control closes, then the ADC will immediately switch the function to defrost.
If cold control is closed and defrost terminator or heater circuit is open when defrost is forced, ADC shuts unit down momentarily and immediately restores power to refrigeration circuit.

 

 



#14 certified tech group 51

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 09:41 AM

After a manual defrost, y'all gotta wait about  24 hours or so, for the bimetal to close and the refer to get to operating temp.............Remove the front grill and retrieve the  tech sheet  ( P/N 16026397 ) stuck to the under side of the box, mostly found under the F.F. side.........Run the forced defrost tests...the damper tests.......ETC........



#15 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 09:43 AM

After a manual defrost, y'all gotta wait about  24 hours or so, for the bimetal to close and the refer to get to operating temp.

 

 

That's why I put it in forced defrost BEFORE I manually defrost the evap and make the bimetal open.  :blinky:



#16 tlo2009

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 01:33 PM

That's why I put it in forced defrost BEFORE I manually defrost the evap and make the bimetal open.  :blinky:

Thanks - sounds like a weekend project.



What'll happen is that the box will cool properly for a few days and then warm up again unless the defrost problem is fixed.  

 

Easy test is to manually force defrost and listen for the snap, crackle, pop of condensate dripping off onto the heating element after a few minutes.  Listen carefully, freezer door open.  If nothing, then check to see if you're getting 120vac from the brown wire on the ADC board to neutral.  If yes, and the defrost heater isn't firing up, then the defrost thermostat may be open (most common) or the defrost heater is open (uncommon).  

 

If you're getting voltage at the ADC and the defrost heater is heating, then replace the ADC board because it's failing to initiate defrost. 

Thanks - where is the ADC board located?



#17 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 01:39 PM

In the cowl where the controls are... top of ff section.
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#18 tlo2009

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Posted 01 July 2013 - 10:49 AM

Replaced defrost thermostat - did the trick. Great site and feedback - thanks to all.



#19 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 01 July 2013 - 11:03 AM

domo for the follow-up! nice job.
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