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redboxer

FL drum not moving

26 posts in this topic

So a week before vacation and the fridgiaire FL will not move drum, in wash or spin

 in any cycle. The drum turns easy as does the motor. Fils with water, then groans and clicks through the cycle until the water pumps out. 

 

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It might help to know the model # FWT449GFS1. Often had trouble (when the drum would move, with not entering high spin. like the door was not locked but hte light was on. The drum spins freely by hand as does the motor.

Any help would be appreciated!

 

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Find the tech sheets on the lower left side of the cabinet........Run the tests described for no motor action........................  Pull the speed control board and look for visual damages.......Check the wire connections at board and the motor..........This is an old critter, saw one about three weeks age , the timer had failed.....................325 clam$ for a speed control board.. :woot: ................

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I always start by trying a new door lock assembly, it's way faster than trying to test it. The door lock is also the most common failure on Frigidaire front load washers.

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Find the tech sheets on the lower left side of the cabinet........Run the tests described for no motor action........................  Pull the speed control board and look for visual damages.......Check the wire connections at board and the motor..........This is an old critter, saw one about three weeks age , the timer had failed.....................325 clam$ for a speed control board.. :woot: ................

What? read instructions first?? This goes against my nature. But then again I replaced the rear drum and bearing on this machine when I needed a new motor. I wondered what those metal pieces were doing around the motor, but since that was step 2 in the repair I breezed right by it. Doh! 

"Look for visual damage", Like what? Big burned hole? This was working OK. Door latch assembly seems to be 'no longer available, but there are others available - I'm assuming for newer models. Will those work with this model? Should I just get a new striker (the part on the door)? It does ;look like the top section may be broken. The door lock light illuminates, fills and drains. drain pump is clear. Why does this always happen on a Friday?

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Door lock assy is still available p/n 131763202, should fit your machine...........Check P/N      131279000 at repair clinic for the picture of  the door "Catch"................does yours look like this????.......................if I remember correctly , the top part of the catch closes a switch in the lock assy. telling the speed board that the door is closed.........................the other tab of the catch locks the door and operates the "Door Locked" light........

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Sensei Cert tech group 51,

 

Indeed thank you for all your help. Hopefully one of these will solve the problem. 

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Don't need to put  counterweight in makes a nice boat anchor

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It sucks that it's that kit, I was mad as hell at Frigidaire for replacing a single switch with a box full of crap and a big hunk of cement. Put Frigidaire "engineers" in the "stupid bastards" category. Plus, Frigidaire SUCKS at instruction sheets, and this one was like 8 pages with worthless photos.

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Ok finally the temperature has cooled, and perhaps since it is Sunday, the washer gods will be kind.

On the tech sheets - Voltage drop on speed control 4 pin between 2 and 4 reads 0v. "Check thermal cut out"

Any ideas where this is hidden? This is a replacement motor from original.

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Slowly. Slowly.

On the motor, between 7 and 8 resistance is less than 1 ohm;

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only if someone has already upgraded the Door Lock Assembly in the past with this NLA kit

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=820920

 

Door-Lock-131888900-01235858.jpg

This seems to be true. I replaced the strike with the one commonly available, No joy. In fact had to pry open the door! Almost trashed the washer by "fixing" it with a six dollar part!.

No one has the wiring harness that I can find. Though they may have included a counterweight to increase shipping and deal with excess flyash, it does appear they included superglue to repair the boot seal. That is a nice touch.

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Out of Stock — Usually ships within 5 - 6 days

Part number: 131888900

Part number: 131888900

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... On the tech sheets - Voltage drop on speed control 4 pin between 2 and 4 reads 0v. "Check thermal cut out"

and you completed Step 2 ?

..... Reconnect electrical power and set the timer to the start of the regular wash cycle

and pull the knob out.

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Yes. Sorry for the delay, I have been trying to get to the door lock switch and check the connections there.

At step 2, There is a humming sound, but the Motor does not run.

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You tried the" most common" door strike???? .....Your old one is very different from the new style.....Another design that is not interchangeable between revisions........................Did you find the wire diagram yet????? .................I think I has one at the warehouse, may go get it if you do not has one...........,

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yes I have the wiring diagram. Fairly greek, but with perhaps your help ...

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Trying to determine if it is the speed control or the motor.

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Have you done the steps by the tech sheet??????....................... If I remember, there is steps to verify power to the speed board and then steps to verify if power is coming out of the timer..........................If I remembering correctly it is power out of terminals 11 and 11B on the timer..............................Sorry about trying to  remember all the steps but I work on all brands and all appliances.................Can't remember everything....... :gulp:............. Wait a second, I can remember when I had my last beer!!!!!!!!.

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Sorry to show my grasshopper statue so publicly. 

I have attempted all the Tech steps.

1. Timer to drain, pump runs

2. belt off, timer to start of wash, knob out - motor does not run

3 And here is where my ignorance starts - check for voltage between 2 and 4 of 4 pin plug:

 meter reads 0 checking the pins on the board, and the plug - not sure if flow is from the plug to the board or from the board to the plug.

 if meter reads 0, check thermal cut out. I disconnected the wires from the motor. Checking the ohms on the motor between 7 and 8, 0 ohms. since this is less than 1 that seemed good.

4."Remove 9 pin, measure voltage between pin 6 of the 9 pin and pin 4 of the 4 pin. If meter reads 0, check timer contact 11 to 11a."

    meter reads 0. NOT SURE WHAT TO DO HERE "CHECK TIMER CONTACT" On voltage out of timer body reads 0 volts. 

Also on plug, voltage is 0.

All the above with machine plugged in, timer at start of wash cycle and knob pulled out.

 

The next step really has me baffled - It says to check voltage drop between pin 3 of the nine pin and pin 4 of the 4 pin plug. Um there is nothing in position 3 of the nine pin plug. 

Am I using the meter correctly?

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Not sure if this is appropriate, but feel like writing a note on the back panel of my machine:

Abandon all hope yea who enter here.

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"And now for something completely different"..........With water attached and "ON"......Go to the strip circuit, right side, top..........."No motor rotation during fill...,,, Water level satisfied, I.E. Full.........,If you get 120 volts at 11 to 11A, there is an open contact in the timer......If you get 0 volts power is passing thru contacts............. Verify by attaching one voltmeter lead to a good ground and use the other lead to touch contacts 11 ( 120 volts) and then touch 11A ( 120 volts)....Speed control is getting 120 volts...............Do the same to contacts 24B  ( 120 v.) and 24 ( 120v.) ..........Pin 3 of 9 pin plug  ( C9.3).............TO.............  pin 4 of 4 plug   (C4.4)............... C9.3 should be a brown wire there... What you are doing there is verifying power out of timer contact 24, C9.3 ( 120 volts) to C4.4,  is the neutral contact........................... ..You are looking for lost power somewhere...You can check for power at timer 7A and/or 7     ( lost power thru door switch or water level switch  )............................ The other sheet shows the timer contact locations...........Only two units in 12 years for a bad timer but most have failed speed boards.......This is more on how to use your meter type testing...................

Edited by RegUS_PatOff

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Thanks for your continued patience. I will check again tonight-

 

OK really dumb question, Was I supposed to do the tech tests with the water hooked up also? It seems like the first thing it does is fill with water, then the drum starts to move, so if there was no water there would it send power where it needed? Also, when I check 11  11A and 24/24B in the timer, am I testing the block or the plug, same question on the 4 and 9 pin.

Sorry to be so thick. 

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We were all grasshoppers at one time..............No dumb questions asked around here ...............No water while doing the test   " Motor Movement"  ( motor will not run ) ..........In the steps that I asked for, you are checking for the path of voltage.................Are you loosing it some where??????..........The tech. sheet is  getting you to do the same thing , but looking  for a " No Spin" operation.................Did you find the missing wire at terminal      " pin three on 9 pin plug" ????............It appears to be connected with the neutral side if the circuit..............The tests I asked for , leave all terminals connected......We are looking for  "If it fills, will it tumble" ???...................You mentioned you are not familiar with your meter......................When we are done , you and your meter will be one.....................Doing simple voltage checks at various places in a circuit, you can verify if the speed control board is getting it's correct voltage and / or a dropped neutral..............Some time you will be using the "Diagnostic strip circuit" to track down a problem...........They are your friends................................A washer does four things.....Fills,  Agitates,   Drains,   Spins....       The water level switch separates the four into two steps.....Fill and Agitate.........Drain and Spin......................Almost all washing machines operate this way..................................P.S.  Thanks Reg.s for correcting me........... :thumbsup:.................  . 

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