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scconsulting

Whirlpool dryer LER4634EQ2 won't stay running +has a new motor

28 posts in this topic

Just finished installing the 2nd brand new blower/drum motor in 2 weeks, and now it won't stay running, even on "Air only" setting with no heat.

 

Two weeks ago when it just died, I went on partselect.com and stepped through all of their suggestions for metering out everything until I got down to the motor, and it metered out of spec.  Diagram calls for 2.4-3.6 ohms on the main and 2.4-3.8 ohms on the start circuit.  Start was fine, but the main only showed 0.3-0.7.  So I ordered new motor from RepairClinic for a hundred bucks, plus an impeller, cause you can't get an old one off of an old motor shaft apparently without cutting it off.  So no big deal, part arrives and just being myself, I metered the new one and it only showed 1.7 (steady flat reading) on the main.  But I wanted my dryer fixed, and it ain't that hard to do, so I just shrugged and bolted everything back together with the new motor.  Fired it up- ran like a champ 2 loads of laundry dried that night no problem.

 

Next day, wife puts in a load, starts right up runs about 10 minutes and shuts off.  (Wtf?) Spun the settings dial, hit the button and started up again ran a good while, thought it had cut off because load was dry but we didn't check until the next morning only to discover the previous night's load was still barely moist.  So close to dry you could just barely tell, but not totally dry.  Set the dial hit the start button-Nothing.

 

Ran through the whole circus again metering everything from the little fuse, start switch, timer relay, really everything back down to the motor once again.  Figured it had to have something to do with the 1.7 reading out of the box, pulled it out, checked it and now it would only show 1.3-1.5 on the main.  Called RepairClinic, explained everything, they sent me a new unit and comped overnight shipping.  Just got it back together, started it on "auto-dry high heat", ran fine for a couple of minutes so I put another load of clean clothes in.  Started dryer on "auto dry high heat" again, it ran about 4 minutes and stopped.  I didn't touch anything, pushed the start button and it ran again this time for 8-9 minutes, shut off.  Thinking it may be an overheat issue that somehow I hadn't been able to find so far, I changed setting to "Fluff Air No heat", hit the start and it ran fine for about three minutes and sounded like it was going to cut off for just a second, but caught and kept running.  Like a dang car with a miss or something (? really weird?).  It did that and kept running maybe 4-5 more times over the next 10 minutes and then one time when it stuttered it did not catch and spool up again and shut off.  Pushed the start button and now back to nothing.  No response on any setting.  Now what ?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Model #?

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LER4634EQ2

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new Motor part number ?

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may be a bad Door Switch,

loose nuts / bad connection at Dryer Power Cord Terminal Strip

OR Wall Outlet

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W10448892 is the part number on the motor...Checked the door switch half a dozen times...I'll go double check terminal strip, but I'm pretty sure I put the tool on everything back on the first go around...I have not looked at the outlet beyond plugging and unplugging so I'll pop the cap off that and have a look...

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Terminal block connections-check, Outlet-check, door switch-check, thermal fuse-check, Orange wire with the 5000 ohm resistor reads-you guessed it 5000 ohms across it.  Heater element wiring diagram shows 7.8-11.8 ohms- it reads 10.0-----

 

Now I just went back over the wiring diagram for any specs that I might have missed and the timer motor that's connected through wires "TM" and "BK" shows on the diagram as 1800-2900 ohms, when I meter those and turn the dial most of the dial settings show 2350, and a couple of them show 1600. 

 

I've got get on the road out of town for the weekend (my wife wanted to leave at 5:30 !!! :ohmy: yikes she is pissed), so any help will be appreciated, but I will be away from the machine until sunday night....Thanks to all, I'll watch the board til then.

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Terminal block connections-check,

visual and voltage tests ?

120v from Neutral to each Line ?

and 240 between Lines ?

 

Did you check the tightness of the Nuts on the Terminal Strip and inside the Wall Outlet ?

and the Screws inside the House Circuit Breaker Box ?

(power disconnected)

 

When Dryer is set to "Run",

Does the Timer Motor advance ?

check for 120v AC from each side of white Thermal Fuse to chassis / ground.

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You probably have aready checke it, but, does the drum roll freely. Something could be binding, or, locking up and overheating motor. Might also make sure vents clear.

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Sounds to me like bad timer contacts heating up and loosing connection shutting unit down.

 

When it gets to a point where it won't run, hold the start button down while putting pressure in all different directions on the timer shaft to see if it tries to start.

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Ok, picking up where I left off...Firstly thanks to everyone for your suggestions!  Now I am going to step through the suggestions in the order they were left and give as much info as I can.

 

Starting with RegUS_PatOff:

 

Posted 14 June 2013 - 07:34 PM

scconsulting, on 14 Jun 2013 - 7:11 PM, said:snapback.png

Terminal block connections-check,

visual and voltage tests ?   Visually everything looks A-ok. 

120v from Neutral to each Line ?  Maybe later if I'm desperate, but as a general rule I don't work on live electrical shit.

and 240 between Lines ?

 

Did you check the tightness of the Nuts on the Terminal Strip and inside the Wall Outlet ? Yes all were tight and proper.

and the Screws inside the House Circuit Breaker Box ? Yes all tight and proper.

(power disconnected)

 

When Dryer is set to "Run",

Does the Timer Motor advance ?  I have it all disassembled right now, so after I get it back together I'll try again, but as of now it won't start, and if it doesn't start the timer can't advance can it?

check for 120v AC from each side of white Thermal Fuse to chassis / ground.  This sounds like one I could make myself do with power to the machine if I get things reassembled, but will it need to be running to get this test result?  If so, I'm in the same boat as with the previous question.  It don't start.

 

tpoindexter:

 

Posted 15 June 2013 - 01:26 AM

You probably have aready checke it, but, does the drum roll freely. Something could be binding, or, locking up and overheating motor. Might also make sure vents clear.  Drum rolls pretty free, at least as free as I ever remember it rolling, and I totally cleaned out all the vents and ducts when I did the motor/blower replacement the first time.


Budget Appliance Repair:

Posted 15 June 2013 - 07:24 AM

Sounds to me like bad timer contacts heating up and loosing connection shutting unit down. Is there a way to use jumpers to bypass the timer to see if this is the issue?  I have an interesting little chart in the wiring diagram that shows how each setting should meter, but only as far as circuits open/closed, and all those were acting right when I checked them before the new motor and after the new motor quit working.  But I am leaning toward focusing on this next, so any further detail you can pass along would be helpful.

 

When it gets to a point where it won't run, hold the start button down while putting pressure in all different directions on the timer shaft to see if it tries to start. I did try this (I had read a similar suggestion on another thread) and it did not have any effect.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

 

Timer:  http://www.repaircli...mber=LER4634EQ2

 

Timer-3976569-00758593.jpg

 

I see you feel pretty strongly about it being the timer motor--Do you know of any way I can check it to know for sure before I order it?

 

Thanks again to all, and keep the info coming!

 

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visual and voltage tests ?

120v from Neutral to each Line ?

and 240 between Lines ?

that's the first test before taking anything apart

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re-set the House Circuit Breakers for the Dryer

and / or test voltage at each of those Circuit Breakers to neutral / ground

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So are you saying that based on the readings in the photo you think there is something wrong with my circuit breakers in by house breaker box?

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yes

Has this Dryer worked OK up till now at this location ?

(for the last few months )?

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For 15 years up until 2 weeks ago

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You definitely have a problem between the panel and the receptacle. Let us know your results.

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Wow, ok. I had to attend to some more pressing issues today, but I will get back on it in the morning and post an update with my findings. Thanks

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Today's findings:

 

I ran over the meter readings at the receptacle end again just to confirm they were the same as yesterday and they were.  Plugged in, start switch, no start no run.  So I unplugged the dryer and went out to the breaker box.  Checked visually and it hadn't been tripped (no little orange flag in the little window).  Switched it off and the switch threw crisp for it's full range of motion, so I don't think it was tripped.  Well, it definitely wasn't.  Flicked it back on and it felt normal again, so I flicked it back and forth 4 or 5 times just for the hell of it.  Left it on, went inside, plugged in dryer, metered the prongs like in the pictures before, and this time I got the 120-120-240 like you had mentioned before.  Also while I was metering the big plug, I heard the faintest noise coming from the dryer.  I turned over the little dashboard bit where all the controls are mounted and put my ear up against there and could hear the timer clicking.  So I pushed the plug the rest of the way in and hit the switch.  It started right up.  I let it run like a minute with no hickups, and then shut it off.  Tried it on several settings, with no problems.  Then while it was running I molested the plug at the receptacle in every sort of way (as safely as possible) trying to make it do anything wrong.   It never stuttered or shut off like before.  I even tried easing the plug out while it was running and wiggling it around as I went and it ran just like normal until the plug was free of the socket. 

 

One thing that concerns me is that during this entire episode from the very beginning a couple of weeks ago, the circuit breaker in the breaker box has never tripped one time.  I am now assuming that the breaker is somehow the root of the problem, but I have no experience with anything like that happening before.  Is it possible for a household breaker to have a failure mode other than just on/off?  I know they are supposed to interrupt current in the case of a spike or short, but how could it be letting some voltage through but not the full flow necessary?  I really don't want to go digging into the internals of my breaker box, but I'm guessing I have no choice at this point.  Should I just go get a new 30 amp breaker and try to just remove and replace?

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sometimes one half of a dual Breaker may "trip" without any indication.

It may be OK, now

If it happens again (or often), then it may be time for a new Breaker

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Ok, well I'll give it one more chance to play nice, and if it goes hinky even one more time, I'm replacing it.  Thanks a bunch, you guys are the best!

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Might be a loose connection at the neutral bar from the dryer circuit breaker.  Could heat up with a load applied and momentarily break the circuit without tripping the breaker.

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Could be the breaker is just getting weak....Run the dryer with a heavy load ( jeans, sweat shirts ).. and the timer set to cottons, timed dry........set for 60 minutes.........check the breaker in about 30 min.............. Place the back of your hand on the breaker,  Warm, getting hot ???

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