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GE Arctica LSHS6LGZBCSS

Erratic temperature Evaporator fan

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18 replies to this topic

#1 Patricio

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Posted 17 June 2013 - 10:46 PM

Complaint is refrigerator temps are erractic, Upper Parts of freezer warm lower normal.  same with refrigerator side.  Lady ws in hospital for a few days & comes back to melted ice & warm milk.  I am in area when call comes in but do not have a lot of time to spend.   I stop for 30 minutes.

 

When I arrived I noticed Mid to upper back wall of freezer Has layer of frost, but I hear defrost element melting ice on evaporator. Compressor & fans are silent.  I immediately take temperature with IR temp gun.     Upper freezer is upper 20's bottom 2-4 degrees.    FF side upper decks are high forties, crispers 37-38.

 

As defrost cycle heats back wall gets up to 100.      After some time it finally cools down to the 60's.    Compressor finally starts along with condenser fan.  Condenser has some dust blockage which I clean up.   Evaporator fan never comes on.   It does not feel like the evaporator is getting cool, don't have the time pull back wall down & really don't have the experance to diagnose properly.

 

She wants me to come back & repair tomorrow,   What can I look for in my troubleshooting.    While I was there she had it plugged into a 3-way adapter plug with the ground prong missing & a microwave plugged into same adapter.   I plugged the refer into the grounded receptacle.

 

I checked the apmperage & wattage with the plug in extension meter I have & it started with a amp draw of 1.70  rose a little then dropped down to 1.2 amps.    I unplugged & replugged immediately to check head pressure, the amp draw rose to 7.5 amps & overload kicked it out Thus dropping amp draw below 0.7.   I take it the sealed unit is sound.

 

As always all help & suggestions greatly appreciated.   Patricio.


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 June 2013 - 02:48 AM

... Evaporator fan never comes on.  
... It does not feel like the evaporator is getting cool,.

first tests ...

 

http://appliantology...tor-minimanual/


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#3 Patricio

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Posted 18 June 2013 - 11:11 PM

Back 24 hours later, evaporator fan not working,  frost pattern good.   Not sure what to test for on board.   Went to Evap fan schematic, checked voltage while refer running at J2 connector. 

 

J2p3 white/silver as my DC negative toJ2p8 Red (+12) DC positive=13.7vdc

 

J2p3 to JP4 Yellow/Black = 13.7vdc

 

2p2 Red (Mod) = 13.7vdc, 

 

J2p3 to J2p1 Blue = 13.7vdc

 

Pulled Connector and performed resistance test

from connector to fan

 

 J2 pin 3 to pin 8 = Open continuity

 

Pin 3 to pin 4  = 11.3 ohms

 

pin3 to pin 2 = open

 

Pin 3 to pin 1 = 20.35 ohms

 

 

Probably not the tests you are looking for.   Examined the control board for anything burnt, did not find anything unusual.   Finally examined defrost heater (yesterday back wall was hot).   Glass Heater is discolored black.    Needs new fan but how do I test that board is good.   Any other tests?


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#4 Level2Learning

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 04:46 AM

Senpai... the resistance tests of the fan are irrlevent.  On the main board, here are the J2 functions for the evap fan;

 

J2-1 tach out from fan to board

J2-3 DC Common

J2-4 PWM (speed command, NOT supply voltage) from board to fan

J2-8 DC 12v supply to many components, including fan.

 

These are the issues that can shunt or 'rob' DC components from getting proper voltage:

1. shorted (internally) DC fan motor in freezer OR condenser

2. moisture/corrosion in freezer dispenser area OR connector at bottom of freezer door

3. failing control panel in fresh food compartment OR freezer door

 

Try this: with everything connected, jump from J2-8 to J2-4 and listen/see if freezer fan takes off and sounds mechanically sound.  Most likely the freezer fan motor has failed, as they do suffer from moisture damage.  CHANGE the board with it, as the J2-4 PWM output amplifier section can be damaged by a failed fan.

 

Incedently, this is also the case with a failing condenser fan motor, but it is J2-5 that is used for PWM output, and there is NO tach out from the fan motor to the board.

 

Good Luck.


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#5 Level2Learning

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 04:51 AM

One more thing to note; this generation of GE, 2000-2012, uses "Liner Protection Mode".  If you leave a door open for 3 minutes, even in defrost, all fans will come on and damper motor between compartments will close.  This keeps plastic light covers and liners from melting due to heat.  It is the perfect test to try.


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#6 Patricio

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 09:46 AM

Senpai... the resistance tests of the fan are irrelevant.  On the main board, here are the J2 functions for the evap fan;

 

 

Try this: with everything connected, jump from J2-8 to J2-4 and listen/see if freezer fan takes off and sounds mechanically sound.  Most likely the freezer fan motor has failed, as they do suffer from moisture damage.  CHANGE the board with it, as the J2-4 PWM output amplifier section can be damaged by a failed fan.

 

Incidentally, this is also the case with a failing condenser fan motor, but it is J2-5 that is used for PWM output, and there is NO tach out from the fan motor to the board.

 

Good Luck.

1)  How would you jump the minute pins together.   It was difficult enough just trying to get voltage measurements.  Did you make a special jump wire with small test leads if so explain how your rig is made.

 

2).the condenser fan is running, failing I do not know.  According to the schematic  the condenser fan, along with the compressor, is being fed by the J8 plug. I interpret this as 120vac.   The J2-5 pin has no wire coming off of it.  I did not check it for anything. 

 

Reading schematics are not my specialty,  Although I try hard.


Edited by Patricio, 19 June 2013 - 09:49 AM.

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IgonFishn

#7 Spannerwrench

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 12:45 PM

No need to make a jumper wire. Use your small test leads and set the volt meter to the amp setting. This post here might help explain how.

http://appliantology...wire#entry97802

Edited by Spannerwrench, 19 June 2013 - 02:32 PM.

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#8 Applianceman97

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 12:54 PM

When did level2learning start posting on here? This guy is great! Saw him at asti and learned a TON about these refrigerators. This guy knows his stuff!
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#9 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 01:52 PM

When did level2learning start posting on here? This guy is great! Saw him at asti and learned a TON about these refrigerators.

This guy knows his stuff!

Avatar info says:

Member Since

Today, 04:04 AM  :wink:


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#10 Applianceman97

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 02:01 PM

Private investigator Reg. Didnt even think to look at his profile.
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#11 Patricio

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 03:01 PM

Hang 10 level2.   Sounds good to me,  I'm your 1st appliantology student,  Honored.   Corono is good , I like Dos  Equis better.


Edited by Patricio, 19 June 2013 - 03:04 PM.

I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#12 Patricio

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 03:19 PM

One more thing to note; this generation of GE, 2000-2012, uses "Liner Protection Mode".  If you leave a door open for 3 minutes, even in defrost, all fans will come on and damper motor between compartments will close.  This keeps plastic light covers and liners from melting due to heat.  It is the perfect test to try.

I meant to quote this earlier,  The freezer door was left open with compressor running while I dismantled the freezer wall to inspect evaporator & fan (I dismantled easier back walls)  The evaporator fan never came on.   So that pretty much tells me it is toast.  Examined control board for burnt did not see anything remotely resembling burnt.


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
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#13 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 05:51 PM

some models, the Evaporator Fan won't work with the Freezer Door open


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#14 Patricio

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 06:48 PM

So throw a wrench at it, fan still does not work,  My question Why?   Fan shorted out?   Why do I have the voltage reading that I do on board.   Does the J2-2 pin suppose to read less that 13.7vdc.   Is there to much voltage coming out of the J2- Pins 8, 4, 2, & 1    Are they all suppose to be the same 13.7 volts.   Teach me some more,

 

Mean while do I order a fan & control board & install them (become a monkey) & hope it works.   As it is an elderly lady does not have a functioning refrigerator & is relying on me to repair.

 

Confucius saying:  I'm confused    My saying:  I don't get it.


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#15 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 08:11 PM

from a GE service manual:

At the evaporator fan connector, check for

13VDC from the red to white wire

and 8-13VDC from the white to yellow wire.
Is the voltage correct for both?

Replace evaporator fan motor

 

A bad Evaporator Fan Motor could ruin the MotherBoard,

but replacing the Evaporator Fan won't cause any worse problems.

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1550741

 

Evaporator-Fan-Motor-WR60X10307-01093918


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

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#16 certified tech group 51

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 09:00 PM

Did you try the 9 volt D.C.  battery trick on the motor ????........................... Positive and negative needs to be correct by my recollections..............................I'm doing a Model PSC25MATASS.........Erratic operation, every thing checks out O.K.................... Seen this problem before................I change the main board AND the evaporator motor .....NO call backs...I do not know if this rates the heading "Parts Changing Monkey"...........All I know is that it is fixed in two service calls..........1) Diagnostic and 2) parts install.......Maybe Level2learning could teach me something...I my self, am waiting for more knowledge... :thumbsup: ............



#17 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 07:48 AM

Welcome Level2!! Your knowledge of Ge is outstanding and inspiring. You helped demistified the Ge mainboard for me at Asti with your explanations and your "frakenfridge" to the point I look forward to GE fridge calls above all others.

Great teacher and look forward to more training from you... but make sure you bring your own air conditioner!

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#18 Patricio

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 09:55 PM

Replaced evaporator fan yesterday, have the control board but did not install.   Could not find any burn marks on board is reason I did not change out.  Unit started cooling immediately & fan is running temperature was dropping when I left.   I did change out the defrost heater, it did not look good at all, black & green with separation in the heater wire.

 

Customer had instructions to call me if temperature did not stabilize @ 0 in freezer & 37 in refrigerator where I set the dial by morning.   Did not receive a call as of 30 hours after repair


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#19 Patricio

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Posted 07 July 2013 - 11:50 AM

All is good ten days later, No callback, If it works OK for ten, it should be good for 155 more, repair complete.


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn





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