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GE Profile PFS22SISBSS warm fridge


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13 replies to this topic

#1 OnThe Waterfront

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 06:43 AM

My fridge temperature can't seem to get below 50 degrees, the freezer seems to be holding its own at 0.  I checked all the thermistors with a meter and the self dioagnostic test, all are good.  The evap and condenser fans (I had to replace the main board about 6 months ago because the condenser fan output died) are running.  The compressor is running (Hot to touch).  The defrost heater ohmed out good.  The only problem I can seem to find is that the damper may not be working properly, the air flow into the frdge does seem a bit low.  I can hear the damper stroke when I force it with the diagnoistic test.   The only test it didn't pass was measureing 6VDC between J3-1 and J3-4 for the first 10 seconds after power up.  What am I missing, do i have to buy another mainboard after just 6 months?



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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 07:41 AM

My fridge temperature can't seem to get below 50 degrees, the freezer seems to be holding its own at 0.  I checked all the thermistors with a meter and the self dioagnostic test, all are good.  The evap and condenser fans (I had to replace the main board about 6 months ago because the condenser fan output died) are running.  The compressor is running (Hot to touch).  The defrost heater ohmed out good.  

 

 

Good report!  Saves us from having to ask all the obvious questions.  Only thing to add here is checking the thermistor in the FF compt.  The diagnostic test only shows open or closed.  Thermistors rarely fail that way.  Best check is to dunk it into a glass of ice water and measure its resistance back at the muthaboard.  You're looking for 16 k-ohms. 

 

The only problem I can seem to find is that the damper may not be working properly, the air flow into the frdge does seem a bit low.  I can hear the damper stroke when I force it with the diagnoistic test.   The only test it didn't pass was measureing 6VDC between J3-1 and J3-4 for the first 10 seconds after power up.  What am I missing, do i have to buy another mainboard after just 6 months?

 

 

Does the air flow change if you manually raise or lower the temperature setting the FF compt?  Also, monitor voltage at J3 when you change the temp setting.  
 
If the unit isn't plugged in to a surge suppressor, it's possible that the muthaboard got tweaked again.  


#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 08:01 AM

may need to post picture of Freezer Evaporator Coil frost pattern


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#4 OnThe Waterfront

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 08:18 AM

may need to post picture of Freezer Evaporator Coil frost pattern

I was going to, but how in gods name do you get the cover panel off?  If would appear that I have to remove the ice maker, but I'm not sure about how to do it.



#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 08:26 AM

may need to post picture of Freezer Evaporator Coil frost pattern

 

 

He's getting 0F in the freezer-- plenty cold.  Sealed system is not a question here.  The problem is air distribution.  

 

OTW, please proceed with the tests I prescribed.  



#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 08:30 AM

Evaporator Coils may be air-clogged .. no Defrost


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#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 08:39 AM

It's possible and we may get to that.  But it's much easier to test the thermistor and damper than to have him dive in a start tearing apart the freezer right off the bat.  Peel it like an onion: check the easy things first, just like on a real-life service call.  



#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 09:38 AM

when he said he ohmed the Defrost Heater, I thought he was in there already...

seems he must have tested it from the MotherBoard.


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#9 OnThe Waterfront

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 10:34 AM

I did ohm the defrost circuit from the motherboard (approx 38 Ohms I believe).  I'll perform the addtional tests when I get home from work.



#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 11:06 AM

I did ohm the defrost circuit from the motherboard (approx 38 Ohms I believe). 

 

That's the place to start for testing both it and all the peripherals (like defrost heater) in any box with a muthaboard, regardless of brand or type of appliance.  



#11 PDuff

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 12:48 PM

He's getting 0F in the freezer-- plenty cold.  Sealed system is not a question here.  The problem is air distribution.  

 

OTW, please proceed with the tests I prescribed.  

 

 

Evaporator Coils may be air-clogged .. no Defrost

 

Concur and concur.  Evaporator frost pattern should tell the tale.  Provided defrost components check good, a weak evaporator fan motor might cause slightly heavier frosting at top of evaporator where the thermistor is located.  In addition to weak air flow, thermistor may send conflicting signals to main board.  The fact the main control board has already been replaced makes me suspect the evaporator fan motor even more.



#12 OnThe Waterfront

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 05:04 PM

So I ohmed out the FF thermistor it was good. Then I plugged the fridge back in and noticed the compressor would only run for a minute or so and then shutoff even though j8 was still powered so I felt the overload module and it was hot (bear in mind I had the fridge unplugged since last night) so when I unplugged the overload several little solder balls fell out of it. I reinstalled the overload and now the compressor seems to be running great. I'm thinking that might have been my problem all along, I just didn't notice the short cycling. Ordering new starter today.

#13 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 05:11 PM

Wow, good find!  Sure didn't expect that!  

 

Does your unit have an actual overload:  http://www.repaircli...ber=PFS22SISBSS

 

Overload-WR08X10061-01010154.jpg

 

or a combo start device:  http://www.repaircli...ber=PFS22SISBSS

 

Start-Device-WR07X10097-00783308.jpg



#14 OnThe Waterfront

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 05:30 PM

Combo start device




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