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japish

maytag mav7600aww lid switch bad (open)

11 posts in this topic

My daughters washers stopped working.  I went to troubleshoot and found the lid switch open so I jumpered with paper clips to verify.  Turned on and water solenoids energized and began to fill tub.  I thought that was it but once it filled it would not continue cycle.  Upon further t/s water level switch, water temp control switch and continuity across motor all seem good.  Could it be the main circuit board, temp control board?  It seemed the output from that board was not there or would I get continuity on motor if the centrifical switch was open?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Maytag lid switches can be extremely difficult to bypass, go get a new switch and give it a try.

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Thank you  I will get one and let you know if that was it.

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  On the lid switch connector, you must jump black to red and black to yellow.

 

Eric

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i did black to red but white to yellow as per schematic,  if thats the case there is the problem. i just got a new switch and will install and post success i hope

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  White to yellow is incorrect and not as per schematic. Black to red gives power to temp control (water valves), black to yellow gives power to drive motor. White has no function other than to blow fuse link in lid switch in the event that the lid switch welds shut.

 

Eric

Edited by fairbank56

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White to yellow is incorrect and not as per schematic.

Black to red gives power to temp control (water valves),

black to yellow gives power to drive motor.

White has no function other than to blow fuse link in lid switch in the event that the lid switch welds shut.

Eric

I agree

 

jumpering White to Yellow may blow House Circuit Breaker

and / or

Timer internal Contacts

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  Unplugging lid switch and jumping white to yellow won't do anything. If you manage to jump white to yellow with lid switch plugged in and lid closed, then you will blow house breaker and possibly timer contacts.

 

Eric

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I am not really a grasshopper more of a grassflopper.  I looked at schematic but rushed over assuming switch was a dpdt. when you posted to jump black to red and yellow I looked at old switch and contacts are marked neut, line, motor and machine.  I am just an old fart who should wear glasses when reading.  Good news, put in new switch and everything works great. Thanks Eric so much this is an awesome website.  Well worth the 10 dollars to become apprentice.  I don't do facebook.  Thanks again to all that replied!

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  Your welcome. The switch actually has 3 sets of single pole contacts. The main disconnect contact, the load contact (for motor) and the auxiliary contact. The main contact never opens unless the fuse link goes. When you open the lid, the load contact opens and the auxiliary contact closes. Neutral goes to the auxiliary contact. If the load contact remains closed when you open the lid (sticking or welded shut), 120vac is placed across the fuse link. The fuse link is a piece of carbon impregnated plastic. With 120vac across it, it heats up, the plastic melts, the link breaks and allows a leaf spring to open the main disconnect contact. Now, nothing will work and the switch must be replaced. Overengineered in my opinion.

 

Eric

Edited by fairbank56

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