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Problem with Miele G2142 dishwasher-fault lights come on after 5 minutes


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17 replies to this topic

#1 Legs

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Posted 29 June 2013 - 09:50 PM

I am getting the technical fault signal - the wash rinse,end lights all light after about 5 minutes.  The drain pump is working fine and the machine fills with water but the circulation pump never comes on.  I hear a number of relay clicks but no circulation. After several minutes the drain pump removes the water and fault lights come on.  Stuck impeller vs bad pump vs bad level switch.  How do I figure out which of these is the problem.  I am comfortable disassembling the machine and ave removed it and pulled the bottom panel to see if I could access the impeller with taking apart the whole assembly but gave up.  



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#2 Spannerwrench

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 07:48 AM

That is telling you there is a fault. But you have to go into diagnostics to view the faults. Do so by following these steps.

Initial requirements:
1. Close the door.
2. Switch off the appliance.
Accessing:
1. Press and hold the Start/Stop button.
2. Switch on the appliance.
3. Release the Start/Stop button.
4. Immediately press the Start/Stop button 3 times; on the 3rd time, hold until the "Start/Stop" LED flashes.
5. Release the Start/Stop button.
6. If the "Start/Stop" LED does not light up, repeat the procedure.
Acknowledgement indicator:
The "Start/Stop" LED flashes slowly (1 flash per second).

The first step in the diagnostics is to view the Fault Codes, do so by following these steps.

Press the Program (or Delay Start for G 2143) button 1x. If the "Rinse" LED displays a fault, check if further faults were registered by briefly pressing the Start/Stop button. To delete the fault memory, press and hold Start/Stop until the "Rinse" LED goes out.
Results displayed as.
The "Rinse & Hold" LED flashes 1x rapidly. If faults were registered, they are indicated by the "Rinse" LED. (Example: Fault code F14: The "Rinse" LED flashes 1x slowly and 4x rapidly at intervals).

After you run the test and have translated the flashing code into a fault code let us know your results.
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

#3 Legs

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 08:29 AM

F14 then f11



#4 Legs

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 08:35 AM

i misinterpreted

F14

F51

F7 or f79 (7 longs no short flashes)



#5 Legs

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 08:40 AM

In trying to fix the dishwasher I think I caused the f14 and f70 by letting water activate the float inadvertently and by trying to run the dishwasher without the check valve in.  Is there a way to test the pressure switch?



#6 Legs

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 08:53 AM

reset faults ran dishwasher and now only getting f14 error

The dishwasher drain pump comes on, the dishwasher fills, no circulation, the dishwasher drains and then the technical fault comes on.



#7 Spannerwrench

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 09:21 AM

Fault Code F14: Water Intake Fault: Heater Pressure Switch
Symptom:
The program is interrupted and the drain pump is operated.
Background information: With the circulation pump operating after a water intake step, the heater pressure switch is checked to ensure that sufficient water pressure exists in the wash water circuit. For this the heater relay must have been activated.
Cause:
During a heating step the heater pressure switch may have registered no or insufficient water pressure at the circulation pump.

Basically the heater relay didn't activate because it doesn't think there's water in the unit or that its circulating properly. You stated no circulation, it must circulate the water to activate the pressure switch. You may have a seized motor. If you have a 3/4" wood spade bit you insert though the slot in the rear of the sump and align it with the motor to losses it. If you can't get it with that you can call Miele and order the pump tool from them. They used to give them away to customers when you call.
F79 Circulation Pump Error
F70 Float Switch Error
F51 Heater relay defective
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

#8 Legs

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 09:36 AM

is there a way to bypass the heater pressure switch to check to see if this is the problem.  I watched a youtube video and saw the miele impeller tool but my sump entry has a high ridge and I can't fit anything in.  Can I apply power to the circulation motor to see if this is the problem without removing it? Any other access to the impeller without dropping the motor?



#9 Spannerwrench

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 11:39 AM

Miele Dishwashers are fairly easy to work on. Uninstall the unit. Lay it at its back (without damaging the legs), and the motor comes out very easily. Once out spin the impeller by hand.
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

#10 Legs

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 08:10 PM

I pulled the motor and the impeller spins freely.  I checked all the electrical connections and they are good.  I pulled and cleaned the level switch which was free of debris.  I hear the relays clicking but I am quite sure the circulation motor never comes on at all.

What next? 



#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 01 July 2013 - 02:29 AM

Service manual (though it sounds like you're getting along nicely without it!): http://appliantology...ies-dishwasher/

#12 Legs

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Posted 01 July 2013 - 11:43 PM

With the manual in hand I have now determined that the circulation pump never comes on.  It seems that the next step is to check to capacitor which looks OK.  Can I do this with a standard multimeter?  

 

The manual also recommends that I access the service mode and check voltage on the switch sensing leads of of connector st5.  Where/how do I access this while the machine is on?



#13 Legs

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 01:25 PM

Well the problem was not the circulation pump but a bad connection at the control panel where the cable/bus runs in.  I put it all back together and was feeling quite proud only to find that I now have leaks at both door corners.  The dishwasher is running empty but I want it to be leak free.  I removed the door gasket which looks to be in good shape, cleaned it but still the drip continues.  Any suggestions?



#14 Legs

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 02:29 PM

The problem turned out to be a loose connection at the control panel which I discovered preparing to use my multimeter to check the voltage acroos the relay at sti5.  I should have looked here first as the fault came after opening the door in mid cycle.  Live and learn.  Now I have a door leak.  My life :(



#15 Spannerwrench

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 03:45 PM

Good job fixing the poor connection, if it's leaking now but it wasn't prior, then it's something that occurred during the disassembly reassembly of the unit. First make sure that the unit is level and not leaning forward, this can cause leaks out of the corners. Also make sure that the lower seal is intact and in the proper position see the attached image.Attached File  image.jpg   51.27KB   0 downloads
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

#16 Legs

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 04:26 PM

I have adjusted the level so that the rear is slightly lower than the front.  I did not remove the door just the front panel.  With the empty dishwasher I am getting about 10 drops of leakage over a cycle. I did remove the top latch at the beginning to allow me to run the dishwasher with the door open to confirm that the circulation pump did not go on at all(as per manual). I outlined it with sharpie and think I put it back in exactly the same place but perhaps it is off a smidge.  I will check after I run a load of dishes tonight.  I cant tell from the picture what the lower seal should look like. Do you have a better photo?



#17 Spannerwrench

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 04:31 PM

Sorry but that's all I got. You should be able to open the door and feel it go all across the bottom of the inner door liner.
Make sure there is no play in the door. It should close firmly and not move in or out on either upper corners when you push them in.
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

#18 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 05:41 PM

Good find!  Thanks for posting it.   :dude:

 

Keep the faith and persevere-- this, too, shall pass.  






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