Kenmore 90 series appears to need another coupler... what did we miss?
Posted 03 July 2013 - 12:55 AM
We have not opened it all up again, but the lid switch appears fine. I learned that my husband put the washer on it's back (something to protect the hose ends) while doing the previous repair after having trouble on it's front, and read a thread (I think here) that said not to do that because it will break something else/not align something right in the end.
I know the coupler part is not expensive, it's just the labor taking it apart. Can we improve our chances of longevity by avoiding common mistakes we might have made in the installation last time? I'm reading about people hammering on the coupler "just so". Is being on it's back a mistake, and is there a better way? Are there other parts we want to consider replacing this time around as well if it's not overloading that has caused the failure? I have time to help but mechanics is not my strong suit and I can't do this alone. I know this isn't a fun repair process for the "free" help, but the reviews on new washers really make me want to keep this one alive.
- Stevealben likes this
Posted 03 July 2013 - 05:56 AM
Watch the video at by the part from this link.
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."
"Occam's RAZOR 'the simplest answer is most often correct'"
Posted 03 July 2013 - 06:31 AM
some of the aftermarket parts seem to fail early
Make sure the package says FSP Whirlpool
Make sure the package says FSP
Need parts? Call our Parts Department now! 877-803-7957
Posted 03 July 2013 - 09:02 AM
Also, did you replace the four rubber grommets on the motor to transmission mounts? Having those worn out can cause the motor and trans shaft to not be parallel to each other causin undue stress on the coupler.
Lastly, what water level are you using? Having too much cloths fornot enough water adds stress.
All these little extra stresses add up to one broken coupler. Good luck!
Another thing, if Sears had worked on this machine I would make sure the transmission mounting bolts are tight. We've recently came acrossed 6 machines after that company that had bolts sitting on the floor under the machine...
Posted 05 July 2013 - 02:24 PM
If this model has a dual action agitator, be sure the dogs in the upper agitator aren't stripped. The upper agitator is responsible for most of the washability and also to properly distribute the load. Off balance loads can cause undo strain on the motor coupling.
Posted 07 July 2013 - 03:11 PM
I have watched the video and shared with my help. I can't find the rubber grommots (part) to replace, I'm assuming they aren't expensive and it wouldn't be a bad thing to do while in there, but can't find the part-- micabay, can you help?
I do have a dual-action agitator, pduff, and will make sure we check that out too, just in case. Can that be seen when the motor is removed, or will it require removing/moving more parts/different access to get to?
Posted 09 July 2013 - 05:37 PM
Just one more thing to touch upon-you may have a sticky basket brake pads( they hold the basket still while agitating) to test
run the spin cycle machine empty and when it reaches a fast speed open the lid
if machine coasts to a stop great-- if it slams to a stop- brake pads are gummy- gummy brakes may not release right away as it shifts into spin
putting excessive stress on coupling & brake release dog --especially loaded
also is there any oil on the coupler? oil WILL degrade the plastic
Posted 09 July 2013 - 08:18 PM
we did not take the cabinet off last time, the coupler we used did not have the metal rings and may have failed early due to that.
Without taking the cabinet off, you have an excellent chance of installing the coupler improperly.
All genuine FSP (Whirlpool OEM parts) sold today have the metal hub. The fact that yours didn't have it pretty much guarantees that you bought the part from that freaking auction site or Amazon, both of whom are famous for selling cheap Chinese knockoff junk.
Posted 10 July 2013 - 12:09 PM
donn- when we get thing spinning again, we will certainly check out that possibility and if it behaves as you mention, we'll put that on the repair list promptly, too.
I live in a big city, my "help" is a retired contractor, we purchased the part originally from a wholesale appliance parts store with his license. They have been helpful, in fact, suspecting the coupler of failing the first time the washer died-- but we clearly did not install it right--- and donn, knowing my stepdad's love of grease I suspect this would also have applied to the last installation. We did order a coupler from Repair Clinic but also took the one my stepdad had picked up back to the wholesaler and explained we wanted one with a metal ring and he pulled out what we wanted and was understanding and swapped it. We'll have a backup now, too.
A few days still before all the parts we ordered get here, but I am so grateful for all the help! And to know that accessed correctly this isn't going to be as hard as it was the first time.
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