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Kenmore 90 series appears to need another coupler... what did we miss?


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9 replies to this topic

#1 Pamzella

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 12:55 AM

I got it used from a friend about 19 months ago, model 110.20902990. About 11 months ago I needed a new coupler for the washer-- my stepdad (contractor) and husband replaced it. All worked fine. Less than a year later, it will again not spin or agitate again. I only caught it at the end of a load which drained but the clothes were more wet than usual, there were and are still no odd sounds, the tub just doesn't move. I do not *think* I have overloaded the washer, but I cannot say it didn't happen ever.

We have not opened it all up again, but the lid switch appears fine. I learned that my husband put the washer on it's back (something to protect the hose ends) while doing the previous repair after having trouble on it's front, and read a thread (I think here) that said not to do that because it will break something else/not align something right in the end.

I know the coupler part is not expensive, it's just the labor taking it apart. Can we improve our chances of longevity by avoiding common mistakes we might have made in the installation last time? I'm reading about people hammering on the coupler "just so". Is being on it's back a mistake, and is there a better way? Are there other parts we want to consider replacing this time around as well if it's not overloading that has caused the failure? I have time to help but mechanics is not my strong suit and I can't do this alone. I know this isn't a fun repair process for the "free" help, but the reviews on new washers really make me want to keep this one alive.

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#2 Spannerwrench

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 05:56 AM

You shouldn't have to lay the washer on the back or the front. It also may have been split when it was put on, if it was the old one and not the new style with the metal insert on the couplings. To do it properly the cabinet needs to be removed.

Watch the video at by the part from this link.
http://www.repaircli...irHelpVideoTabs
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#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 06:31 AM

some of the aftermarket parts seem to fail early

Make sure the package says FSP Whirlpool

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1195967

 

Motor-Coupling-285753A-01029882.jpg

 

Make sure the package says FSP

(Whirlpool OEM)

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#4 MicaBay

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 09:02 AM

Make sure coupler is on all the way, a little bit if the shaft should be sticking up a by a hair.

Also, did you replace the four rubber grommets on the motor to transmission mounts? Having those worn out can cause the motor and trans shaft to not be parallel to each other causin undue stress on the coupler.

Lastly, what water level are you using? Having too much cloths fornot enough water adds stress.

All these little extra stresses add up to one broken coupler. Good luck!
Another thing, if Sears had worked on this machine I would make sure the transmission mounting bolts are tight. We've recently came acrossed 6 machines after that company that had bolts sitting on the floor under the machine...

#5 PDuff

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Posted 05 July 2013 - 02:24 PM

If this model has a dual action agitator, be sure the dogs in the upper agitator aren't stripped.  The upper agitator is responsible for most of the washability and also to properly distribute the load.  Off balance loads can cause undo strain on the motor coupling. 



#6 Pamzella

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Posted 07 July 2013 - 03:11 PM

This is so helpful, we did not take the cabinet off last time, the coupler we used did not have the metal rings and may have failed early due to that. Honestly, I don't think I have overloaded it, and I certainly never use less water- insufficient washing water is the big reason why I don't want a newer washer. I save water by washing my clothes, particularly the ones that go out in the garden and get dirty, a few times whenever possible before rewashing--- when they go in, I want them clean again. I have trouble with towels, mostly, that are really heavy when wet, so I tend to wash them separately and balance them as they go in the washer as much as possible. And no more than 2 or 3 bath or project towels in any one load.

I have watched the video and shared with my help. I can't find the rubber grommots (part) to replace, I'm assuming they aren't expensive and it wouldn't be a bad thing to do while in there, but can't find the part-- micabay, can you help?

I do have a dual-action agitator, pduff, and will make sure we check that out too, just in case. Can that be seen when the motor is removed, or will it require removing/moving more parts/different access to get to?

#7 fairbank56

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Posted 07 July 2013 - 03:17 PM

  Motor grommets:

http://www.repaircli...et/62691/668960

 

  Agitator repair kit:

http://www.repaircli...t/285810/470911


Edited by fairbank56, 07 July 2013 - 03:26 PM.


#8 donn

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 05:37 PM

Just one more thing to touch upon-you may have  a sticky basket brake pads( they hold the basket still while agitating) to test 

run the spin cycle  machine empty  and when it reaches a fast speed open the lid

if machine coasts to a stop great-- if it slams to a stop- brake pads are gummy-  gummy brakes may not release right away  as it shifts into spin

putting excessive stress on coupling  & brake release dog --especially loaded

also is there any oil on the coupler?  oil  WILL degrade the plastic


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#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 08:18 PM

we did not take the cabinet off last time, the coupler we used did not have the metal rings and may have failed early due to that. 

 

Without taking the cabinet off, you have an excellent chance of installing the coupler improperly.

 

All genuine FSP (Whirlpool OEM parts) sold today have the metal hub.  The fact that yours didn't have it pretty much guarantees that you bought the part from that freaking auction site or Amazon, both of whom are famous for selling cheap Chinese knockoff junk.  



#10 Pamzella

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 12:09 PM

donn- when we get thing spinning again, we will certainly check out that possibility and if it behaves as you mention, we'll put that on the repair list promptly, too.

 

I live in a big city, my "help" is a retired contractor, we purchased the part originally from a wholesale appliance parts store with his license.  They have been helpful, in fact, suspecting the coupler of failing the first time the washer died--  but we clearly did not install it right--- and donn, knowing my stepdad's love of grease I suspect this would also have applied to the last installation.  We did order a coupler from Repair Clinic but also took the one my stepdad had picked up back to the wholesaler and explained we wanted one with a metal ring and he pulled out what we wanted and was understanding and swapped it.  We'll have a backup now, too.  

 

A few days still before all the parts we ordered get here, but I am so grateful for all the help!  And to know that accessed correctly this isn't going to be as hard as it was the first time.






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