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Steveandedie

Frigidaire front loader won't agitate or spin

7 posts in this topic

We have a Frigidaire Gallery front loader 11+ yrs old, model # NGSTR127AS0.


It will not agitate or spin but goes through the cycles OK (I think - will test).


Drain pump works, pressure switch shows 110V on the pin for the aqua wire.


Big motor ohms out fine - 2.8 and open to ground.


Belt ok.


Shock absorbers are both broken.


 


We removed and tested door switch -


PTC heater = 436 ohms


wht to wht/blu (solenoid/door lock coil) = 1343 ohms


blk to blk/red (door lock switch) is open on the bench, and still open when snapped onto the door latch.


 


According to the test procedure in the tech sheet from inside the machine, all elec test sequences look OK on the heavy wash cycle EXCEPT pin 1 on the 10 pin to pin 5 (N) on the 6 pin connector - it reads 61V instead of 0 V like the test sheet says it should.  (pin 2, 6, & 10 to pin 5 are all 123V)


But according to your answer to beartoothweb, we are not supposed to see exactly 0 V from pin 1 to pin 5 with the timer in the beginning of the heavy wash position. You said we should see something above 50 V, and we do.


If we advance the timer to the next wash position manually, we get:


pin 1 to 5 = 123V


pin 2 to 5 = 123V


pin 6 to 5 = 61V


pin 10 to 5 = 123V


advanced to the light wash position reads:


pin 1 to 5 = 43V


pin 2 to 5 = 55V


pin 6 to 5 = 43V


pin 10 to 5 = 55V


 


Pins 5 to 6 on the 6 pin plug are at 123V.


Any ideas what to do next?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

... Shock absorbers are both broken.

... According to the test procedure in the tech sheet from inside the machine,

... removed and tested door switch -PTC heater = 436 ohms wht to wht/blu (solenoid/door lock coil) = 1343 ohms blk to blk/red (door lock switch) is open on the bench, and still open when snapped onto the door latch.

1) vibration may have partially loosened the Timer Connector Plug

2) what's the part number of the tech sheet ?

3) not a valid test

During Spin, when the Door is locked,:

is it really locked ?

If so, then un-plug the Power Cord from the Wall Outlet.

Can you then open the Door right away ?

OR only after a few minutes ?

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Hi There,

all plugs were found to be on tight when we started.

the tech sheet part # is 131941100 0005

the wiring diagram P/N is 134014800

 

we put all parts and connectors back on and ran your test.

we put the timer dial on final spin and were surprised to find that the machine did rotate and then spin. 

the door is really locked during this spin cycle.

we unplugged it from the wall, and the door remained really locked for 60 seconds.

 

we plugged it back in and the machine picked up where it left off and finished the final spin cycle to the end, all the while spinning normally. (Yay! we thought)

then we set it to a full wash cycle.

it did agitate, but when it got to the first rinse, it did not spin.

we let it run through the rest of the regular cycle, and it failed to ever agitate or spin again, including the final spin.

 

We know tomorrow is a holiday....what's your schedule?

 

THx so far!

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Hi,

By the way, the door remained locked even though it wasn't agitating or spinning.

We'll need two shock absorbers, but what other parts do you think we need to replace?

We are no longer with the machine, but maybe a neighbor can run some tests if needed.

S&J

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OKey Dokey,

we will order up the shocks and speed control board.

btw, we followed the instructions in that U tube video at the start of the repair, and the door switch and motor checked out OK.

THX - we'll let you know how it works out.

S&J

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