washer fills,washes, and drains but wont spin. voltage present to motor when it should be spinning but would not spin. replaced motor and belt but if you let it advance to spin on its on it doesnt spin and it gets SO HOT and you start to see puffs of smoke coming either off belt or motor cant tell which. really wierd part is if you stop timer and move it directly to spin and pull out(or push in whichever it is) you get a loud clunk and it starts spinning like crazy it just wont spin if you start it in rinse and let timer advance to spin on its on. and yes timer is moving all the way thru to end and the same voltage is present at motor when it doesnt work thats there when it does work. the only difference is if you manually move it from the off position to spin and push in timer immediatly "clunk" and spin starts. any ideas ,driving me crazy --oh side note i have almost the same identical problem with an almost identical g.e. that i have belt and motor on order for could be about to make same mistake twice. only differrence on second unit is if i turn the pulley when its just sitting there not turning sometimes it will catch and turn a little but slowly. oh yes and neither of these units is the kind with that giant pulley and wires running to the transmission. both are the regular old style with small belt and clutchless motor . HELP PLEASE,,,thanks
G.E. washer model WDSR2080G2WW--wont spin kinda
Posted 08 July 2013 - 08:25 PM
Did you check motor voltage across both windings? Blue to yellow for main run winding, violet/white to red for start/run winding. Sounds like maybe bad timer contacts for the start/run winding. Power to start/run winding is reversed by timer to reverse rotation of motor in spin versus agitate.
Posted 08 July 2013 - 08:26 PM
... voltage present to motor when it should be spinning but would not spin..
voltages to the Run Winding and to the Start Winding ?
If not, sounds like a bad Timer
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Posted 09 July 2013 - 12:43 AM
will check that but the weird part like i was trying to describe but probably did a bad job of it is that if you say put the washer at the start of the rinse cycle for testing purposes it fills ,agitates, pumps the water out, gets to spin but will not spin (note that all this time the timer moved right along past the words rinse and well into the word spin. if you stop it at that point and turn the timer all the way around to the EXACT SAME SPOT you just had it at (say the spot where the I is in the word "spin" ) and pull timer out to start ,it immediatly spins perfectly. this would seem to make it unlikely that the problem is with the timer,too me, could be wrong but that is why i was real careful to make sure i turned the timer to the exact spot that it was at when it wouldnt come on on its on. Its strange but it seems like the voltage "hits harder" or something when i turn it manually straight to spin and pull timer out. i know that is silly but it immediatly gets a loud "clunk" sound and starts spinning. kind of like the sound a direct drive whirlpool makes when it changes gears into spin. when the timer advances to the same spot in spin on its on it obviously is wanting to start spinning (because motor gets to hot to touch,smeels like its on fire and you see smoke) but no good loud clunk likes its changing gears to spin.
Posted 09 July 2013 - 07:59 AM
I believe you have a stuck/welded agitate contact in the timer so that when it gets to spin it never lets the motor stop running in agitate direction so that it can restart in the spin direction. Pushing the timer knob in to stop the machine then pulling it back out lets it restart in the spin direction.
If you can bypass the lid switch and watch at the end of the agitate/wash cycle you will probably see that it just keeps agitating while draining the water out and advancing the timer all the way thru the spin cycle and onto the end and stops.
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Posted 09 July 2013 - 01:01 PM
yeah but the agitate does stop at the end of the rinse, i dont really have to bypass the lid switch because with the front off i can see the motor has stopped turningat end of agitate time and is stopped with no voltage to it as is normal as the drain pump pumps out the water then as the water is nearly drained out and timer has moved well into the spin mark voltage once again returns to the motor for spin(as it should its now time to spin) but the motor doesnt start just sits there getting REAL hot but if i stop it and move it around to the same spot manually- bingo clunk and spin starts. i didnt mention before and i dont know if this is normal or not but when sitting in spin and not starting you can turn the pulley easily clockwise but it wont turn counter clockwise at all. i finally got ahold of the transmission itself (for leverage) and was able to force it to turn counter clockwise 2 or 3 inches but it trys to return back to position where it was when you started.
Posted 09 July 2013 - 01:48 PM
With washer off you should be able to rotate the motor pulley CW (viewed from below) which should rotate belt, main pulley, transmission housing and basket. Use two hands to keep it going as the brake will stop it as soon as you release it. When you get to the point after drain and it won't start spin, unplug washer and plug back in. Does it start spin then or must you manually rotate timer around to spin as before? If it doesn't start spin after plugging back in, unplug again, don't touch the timer, remove the belt and plug back in. If the motor doesn't start then, I'm pretty sure it's the timer.
Edited by fairbank56, 09 July 2013 - 01:49 PM.
Posted 09 July 2013 - 02:40 PM
thanks ill try that suppossed to meet the lady at 5p.m texas time . concerning rotate tried that ,it will turn clockwise all day long its counter clockwise it wont budge. but will try the whole unplug plug in deal described for sure. just hope the brand new motor hasnt burnt up at this point but you presume it has an overload that would have kicked at some point but when i was testing it friday i was amazed at how long it would sit there getting hot and smoking (3 to 4 )minutes at least and no overload would kick. i finally stopped it because i was getting scared but even then i would rotate dial to same spot it was before with no cool down time and bmotor would kick into perfect spin without hesitation. thanks, ill let you know what happens.
Posted 09 July 2013 - 04:34 PM
Well, clockwise versus counterclockwise depends on how your looking at it, that's why I said "viewed from below", as in looking up from underneath the pulley. In that respect, CCW is agitation direction and CW is spin direction. If you can't rotate it by hand in the spin direction, there is something wrong, yet it still spins when you advance timer by hand to spin and start it. Very strange. Yes, I wouldn't leave it humming like that but for a very short period of time. Bad for the motor windings. Don't know why the overload isn't tripping.
Edited by fairbank56, 09 July 2013 - 04:36 PM.
Posted 09 July 2013 - 11:13 PM
yeah i got you and yes clockwise if viewed from below is the way that wont hardly turn. this time when i let it run from rinse to spin no spin and when i turn it manually back around to spin it doesnt spin either . did check wiring you said check definitly voltage is getting to spin windings, changed capacitor -made no difference. loosened nuts on bottom of motor and slide motor back in mounting grooves till belt was barely on and hit spin and it spins but slowly. stopped it let it sit a little bit and then tried spin again -no spin. I tried to turn main big pulley(clockwise if you were underneath) wouldnt budge so i went higher (much more room for leverage)and grabbed the side hump part of transmission and pulled as hard as i could and got it to move a little bit(CW from bottom). tried spin again and it started and spins slowly. stopped it and tried to restart and again no spin. it is like the transmission is stuck or something and the motor just doesnt have enough power to get it started from a dead stop. i did have occasion to be in another house today with an almost identical washer and noticed when i tried to turn the pulley on it it was stiff but i could turn it to the right (CW from underneath) without to much difficuty but this unit as i described i have to grab the transmission itself and put all my 240 plus pounds into it to turn it any so something must be in a bind.
Posted 10 July 2013 - 07:28 AM
Turning the transmission alone without turning the pully won't work because the brake won't release when you only turn the transmission. I think you may have a dried up brake cam. The cam has six balls that ride in six tapered grooves. There should be some grease in there to allow it to work. If it gets dried up, the balls get stuck and won't allow the brake to release. Observe the dogs on the brake cam and brake hub. When you rotate the pulley CW, the cam dogs should rotate towards the brake hub dogs. A gap should open up between the two (cam and brake hub).If this is the problem, you may be able to get a little grease in the gap if you can get it to open up. You see the coil spring below the cam, don't get any lubricant near there because if it gets between the spring and the two hubs inside of it, the spring will slip and spin won't work. The only real way to service this problem is to remove the tub so you can flip it over and take the lower part of the transmission apart. You can just see one of the balls in the gap in this photo. Here's a web page I created to show how this thing comes apart. You would only need to go so far as to remove the pulley hub and brake cam to get to where you could clean and lubricate the balls and tapered grooves. Of course, if you do see relative motion between the cam and brake hub, the problem could be elsewhere such as clothing caught between the tubs or seized tub bearing but unlikely since it did work well for you before. Maybe the turning off/on of the washer gave it enough extra umph to make the brake release work. When the balls rotate into the shallow part of the tapered grooves, they push up on the brake hub releasing the brake.
Edited by fairbank56, 10 July 2013 - 07:53 AM.
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