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Chuck Gibson

Kenmore electric dryer shuts off

65 posts in this topic

I am working on a Kenmore Mod. 110.64722400. This dryer when set on 50 minutes will run 20 - 30 minutes and shut off before the cycle is complete. It seems to heat up fine. Reading and learning from other post I have removed the back, cleaned the vent and aluminum vent duct. Checked the vent going outside and it is clear. I replaced the motor with the same results. The aluminum frame on the motor runs between 115 and 120 deg. F as shown with an infrared laser thermometer. I checked the resistance of the drum and noticed a little bit of drag and upon inspection it needs the rear seal replaced. To bypass that I removed the drum and belt to remove all resistance from the motor and I am getting the same results.... it shuts off. The timer does not advance once the dryer quits running. When it shuts off you can immediately push the start button and it restarts but it runs a shorter period of time before shutting off again. How and what should I check?? Thank you much for any help you can give me!!   

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... will run 20 - 30 minutes and shut off before the cycle is complete.

... The timer does not advance once the dryer quits running.

...  When it shuts off you can immediately push the start button and it restarts but it runs a shorter period of time before shutting off

On that model, Timer Motor won't run without Drum Motor running.

Try running it without the Belt, and in the Air-Fluff, no heat cycle.

How's the Blower Assembly ?  (loading down the Motor) ?

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I kind of figured the timer only keeps moving on the circuit board type of dryers, I am just trying to give you as much info as possible. 

 

The motor/blower assembly spins freely with a twist of the fingers so I don't think that is causing us a problem. 

 

I ran it through two cycles back to back as you suggested in the no heat mode and it did not stop. Each of those is a 30 minute cycle. This test as well as the others that I described were done with the drum out of the machine and the top raised to release any heat around the motor. The temperature of the motor frame was the same in both modes. Could this be a timer problem?

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Sounds like something in the motor circuit is heating up due to a poor connection, it could be in the timer, but check thermal fuse and wire connections at the motor. Can anyone post a wiring diagram?

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I think the motor is heating up and kicking out on thermal overload.  Is this dryer running in a hot room with poor air circulation?  This can make a good motor overheat and trip the internal thermal protection.

 

Also check the drum rollers and drum rolling resistance.  

 

If the room conditions and the rolling components are okay, then the motor is on its way out anyway and you'll be replacing it sooner or later:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drive-Motor/279827/2584?modelNumber=110.64722400

 

Drive-Motor-279827-01191725.jpg

 

Might as well do the maintenance kit while you're in there:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Maintenance-Kit/4392065/587636?modelNumber=110.64722400

 

Maintenance-Kit-4392065-01168905.jpg

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... I replaced the motor with the same results.

supposedly already replaced  ..

but I can't think of anything else

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Sounds like something in the motor circuit is heating up due to a poor connection, it could be in the timer, but check thermal fuse and wire connections at the motor. Can anyone post a wiring diagram?

Exactly how would I go about checking the thermal fuse at the motor? I moved and pushed the wires at the plug that connects to the motor but none of them seemed loose. Early this morning I set a fan in the dryer housing aimed straight at the motor and it ran a 60 minute cycle without stopping. I tried it again this afternoon in the hot part of the day and it stopped every 10 minutes.

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I think the motor is heating up and kicking out on thermal overload.  Is this dryer running in a hot room with poor air circulation?  This can make a good motor overheat and trip the internal thermal protection.

 

Also check the drum rollers and drum rolling resistance.  

 

If the room conditions and the rolling components are okay, then the motor is on its way out anyway and you'll be replacing it sooner or later:

 

 

The dryer has ran in that same spot in the garage for over 20 years with no problem....BUT, this is Texas and it is getting hot! After reading this post, Early this morning I set a fan in the dryer housing aimed straight at the motor and it ran a 60 minute cycle without stopping. I tried it again this afternoon in the hot part of the day and it stopped every 10 minutes.

Read more: http://appliantology.org/topic/43122-kenmore-electric-dryer-shuts-off/#ixzz2YaKdx0eD

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... I replaced the motor with the same results.  

with a new Motor ?

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The dryer has ran in that same spot in the garage for over 20 years with no problem....BUT, this is Texas and it is getting hot! After reading this post, Early this morning I set a fan in the dryer housing aimed straight at the motor and it ran a 60 minute cycle without stopping. I tried it again this afternoon in the hot part of the day and it stopped every 10 minutes.

 

 

 

I think you done found el problemo, budrow.  Seen this before.  Dryer set in a 100F boiler room kept cutting out.  New motor, same deal.  I finally saw the light and I was saved!  

 

3pze6v.jpg

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Yes, I replaced the motor. Is there any way to test the motor to know for sure it is kicking out on thermal overload? I have a tester I just don't know how to test the motor. 

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I think you done found el problemo, budrow.  Seen this before.  Dryer set in a 100F boiler room kept cutting out.  New motor, same deal.  I finally saw the light and I was saved!  

 

 

But, The dryer has ran in this garage for over 20 years and it has been much hotter than this. Right now it is being tested with the top raised, drum and belt outside of the cabinet with a fan blowing directly on the motor. Could I have received a defective or weaker motor? I would love it if I knew for sure I could just return the motor and exchange it with another one and my problem be solved...

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But, The dryer has ran in this garage for over 20 years

 

Uhhh... Global Warming?   :beach:

 

Maybe they just ain't making motors tuff like thay used to do.   :samurai:

 

Awwite, seriously...

 

Did you check the drum rolling guts?  Stiff drum rollers and idler pulley wheel will all add exponentially to motor strain, causing increased current draw with the concomitant increase in internal temperature.  

 

Think on these things, grasshoppah.  

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Uhhh... Global Warming?   :beach:

 

 

hahahahaha I love it!

 

I now have removed the fan from the cabinet and ran it two full cycles on air dry, 30 minutes per cycle and it did not stop. Forgive my ignorance but does the heat cycle run extra electricity through the motor? Somehow it seems like it would have to have some kind of signal through the motor so that when the motor stops for any reason like the door being opened so the heater would cut off..... I'm trying to learn something about this process... 

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Forgive my ignorance but does the heat cycle run extra electricity through the motor? 

 

All is forgiven, Grasshoppah.  

 

Yes-- L2 for the heating element is made through the centrifugal switch in the motor.  Though if this switch is in good condition, the heat generation through it should be di minimis, as our lawyer friends may say (eh hem, Brother Durham).  

 

The dryer has ran in that same spot in the garage for over 20 years with no problem....BUT, this is Texas and it is getting hot! After reading this post, Early this morning I set a fan in the dryer housing aimed straight at the motor and it ran a 60 minute cycle without stopping. I tried it again this afternoon in the hot part of the day and it stopped every 10 minutes.

 

I think you done proved my overheating motor hypotenuse, budrow.   :thumbsup:

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Yes, I replaced the motor.

 

 

with a new Motor ?

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with a new Motor ?

 

I bought it off of the net as a NEW motor. It was encased in a Styrofoam casing that split in the middle to separate and it had wiring instructions and adapter connections with it. It was also in a plastic bag for whatever that means... I will try to exchange it and if the next one does the same thing I will get my cash back and buy elsewhere. I will come back and post my results.

 

For now, I say thank you great warriors for your time and patience!

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I bought it off of the net as a NEW motor.

Whirlpool FSP part # 279827 ?

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It has "Replacement for 279827" printed on the box but it does not specify Whirlpool FSP. Is there such a thing as aftermarket appliance parts? Looking at the motor it does have a sticker with the dreaded "Made in China"..... I seen this when I received it but just figured that everything is made in China nowadays....

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I think Brother Reginald hath probed and found the soft underbelly of the beast.

Sounds like you done been powned by a generic parts peddler.

Genuine Whirlpool parts will have a conspicuous FSP on the box or will explicitly say Whirlpool factory certified parts.

Otherwise, it's a cheap, Chinese knockoff.

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I think Brother Reginald hath probed and found the soft underbelly of the beast.

Sounds like you done been powned by a generic parts peddler.

Genuine Whirlpool parts will have a conspicuous FSP on the box or will explicitly say Whirlpool factory certified parts.

Otherwise, it's a cheap, Chinese knockoff.

Crap! This stinks to the max....

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Buying cheap, generic parts is always false economy and ends up costing you way more in the long run, not just dollars but aggravation, time spent here at this forum when you coulda been squeezin' on your lady-love... just sayin'.  

 

Time to cut your losses and come git you a real, OEM motor with a one year return policy:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drive-Motor/279827/2584?modelNumber=110.64722400

 

Drive-Motor-279827-01191725.jpg

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... it had wiring instructions and adapter connections with it.

just for other's  reference, can you post a scan of the instructions,

and pictures of the motor and adapters ?

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Most of the parts used in appliance repair are made in China or somewhere else besides here. But, the OEM parts are designed by the manufacturer and made properly according to those specifications. There are other Chinese nock offs though that are not made to the same standard. Brands like Whirlpool have even changed the name of their parts in order for people to better understand the difference.

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