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Kenmore electric dryer shuts off


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#1 Chuck Gibson

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Posted 08 July 2013 - 09:37 PM

I am working on a Kenmore Mod. 110.64722400. This dryer when set on 50 minutes will run 20 - 30 minutes and shut off before the cycle is complete. It seems to heat up fine. Reading and learning from other post I have removed the back, cleaned the vent and aluminum vent duct. Checked the vent going outside and it is clear. I replaced the motor with the same results. The aluminum frame on the motor runs between 115 and 120 deg. F as shown with an infrared laser thermometer. I checked the resistance of the drum and noticed a little bit of drag and upon inspection it needs the rear seal replaced. To bypass that I removed the drum and belt to remove all resistance from the motor and I am getting the same results.... it shuts off. The timer does not advance once the dryer quits running. When it shuts off you can immediately push the start button and it restarts but it runs a shorter period of time before shutting off again. How and what should I check?? Thank you much for any help you can give me!!   



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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 08 July 2013 - 09:52 PM

... will run 20 - 30 minutes and shut off before the cycle is complete.

... The timer does not advance once the dryer quits running.

...  When it shuts off you can immediately push the start button and it restarts but it runs a shorter period of time before shutting off

On that model, Timer Motor won't run without Drum Motor running.

Try running it without the Belt, and in the Air-Fluff, no heat cycle.

How's the Blower Assembly ?  (loading down the Motor) ?


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#3 Chuck Gibson

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Posted 08 July 2013 - 11:30 PM

I kind of figured the timer only keeps moving on the circuit board type of dryers, I am just trying to give you as much info as possible. 

 

The motor/blower assembly spins freely with a twist of the fingers so I don't think that is causing us a problem. 

 

I ran it through two cycles back to back as you suggested in the no heat mode and it did not stop. Each of those is a 30 minute cycle. This test as well as the others that I described were done with the drum out of the machine and the top raised to release any heat around the motor. The temperature of the motor frame was the same in both modes. Could this be a timer problem?



#4 JJ Surfer

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 01:25 AM

Sounds like something in the motor circuit is heating up due to a poor connection, it could be in the timer, but check thermal fuse and wire connections at the motor. Can anyone post a wiring diagram?

#5 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 02:26 AM

http://appliantology...-sheet-8528192/


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#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 03:37 AM

I think the motor is heating up and kicking out on thermal overload.  Is this dryer running in a hot room with poor air circulation?  This can make a good motor overheat and trip the internal thermal protection.

 

Also check the drum rollers and drum rolling resistance.  

 

If the room conditions and the rolling components are okay, then the motor is on its way out anyway and you'll be replacing it sooner or later:  http://www.repaircli...er=110.64722400

 

Drive-Motor-279827-01191725.jpg

 

Might as well do the maintenance kit while you're in there:  http://www.repaircli...er=110.64722400

 

Maintenance-Kit-4392065-01168905.jpg



#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 06:47 AM

... I replaced the motor with the same results.

supposedly already replaced  ..

but I can't think of anything else


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#8 Chuck Gibson

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 04:07 PM

Sounds like something in the motor circuit is heating up due to a poor connection, it could be in the timer, but check thermal fuse and wire connections at the motor. Can anyone post a wiring diagram?

Exactly how would I go about checking the thermal fuse at the motor? I moved and pushed the wires at the plug that connects to the motor but none of them seemed loose. Early this morning I set a fan in the dryer housing aimed straight at the motor and it ran a 60 minute cycle without stopping. I tried it again this afternoon in the hot part of the day and it stopped every 10 minutes.



#9 Chuck Gibson

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 04:12 PM

I think the motor is heating up and kicking out on thermal overload.  Is this dryer running in a hot room with poor air circulation?  This can make a good motor overheat and trip the internal thermal protection.

 

Also check the drum rollers and drum rolling resistance.  

 

If the room conditions and the rolling components are okay, then the motor is on its way out anyway and you'll be replacing it sooner or later:

 

 

The dryer has ran in that same spot in the garage for over 20 years with no problem....BUT, this is Texas and it is getting hot! After reading this post, Early this morning I set a fan in the dryer housing aimed straight at the motor and it ran a 60 minute cycle without stopping. I tried it again this afternoon in the hot part of the day and it stopped every 10 minutes.

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#10 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 04:17 PM

... I replaced the motor with the same results.  

with a new Motor ?


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#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 04:25 PM

The dryer has ran in that same spot in the garage for over 20 years with no problem....BUT, this is Texas and it is getting hot! After reading this post, Early this morning I set a fan in the dryer housing aimed straight at the motor and it ran a 60 minute cycle without stopping. I tried it again this afternoon in the hot part of the day and it stopped every 10 minutes.
 

 

 

I think you done found el problemo, budrow.  Seen this before.  Dryer set in a 100F boiler room kept cutting out.  New motor, same deal.  I finally saw the light and I was saved!  

 

3pze6v.jpg



#12 Chuck Gibson

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 04:25 PM

Yes, I replaced the motor. Is there any way to test the motor to know for sure it is kicking out on thermal overload? I have a tester I just don't know how to test the motor. 



#13 Chuck Gibson

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 04:30 PM

I think you done found el problemo, budrow.  Seen this before.  Dryer set in a 100F boiler room kept cutting out.  New motor, same deal.  I finally saw the light and I was saved!  

 

 

But, The dryer has ran in this garage for over 20 years and it has been much hotter than this. Right now it is being tested with the top raised, drum and belt outside of the cabinet with a fan blowing directly on the motor. Could I have received a defective or weaker motor? I would love it if I knew for sure I could just return the motor and exchange it with another one and my problem be solved...



#14 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 05:49 PM

But, The dryer has ran in this garage for over 20 years

 

Uhhh... Global Warming?   :beach:

 

Maybe they just ain't making motors tuff like thay used to do.   :samurai:

 

Awwite, seriously...

 

Did you check the drum rolling guts?  Stiff drum rollers and idler pulley wheel will all add exponentially to motor strain, causing increased current draw with the concomitant increase in internal temperature.  

 

Think on these things, grasshoppah.  



#15 Chuck Gibson

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 06:26 PM

Uhhh... Global Warming?   :beach:

 

 

hahahahaha I love it!

 

I now have removed the fan from the cabinet and ran it two full cycles on air dry, 30 minutes per cycle and it did not stop. Forgive my ignorance but does the heat cycle run extra electricity through the motor? Somehow it seems like it would have to have some kind of signal through the motor so that when the motor stops for any reason like the door being opened so the heater would cut off..... I'm trying to learn something about this process... 



#16 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 06:33 PM

Forgive my ignorance but does the heat cycle run extra electricity through the motor? 

 

All is forgiven, Grasshoppah.  

 

Yes-- L2 for the heating element is made through the centrifugal switch in the motor.  Though if this switch is in good condition, the heat generation through it should be di minimis, as our lawyer friends may say (eh hem, Brother Durham).  

 

The dryer has ran in that same spot in the garage for over 20 years with no problem....BUT, this is Texas and it is getting hot! After reading this post, Early this morning I set a fan in the dryer housing aimed straight at the motor and it ran a 60 minute cycle without stopping. I tried it again this afternoon in the hot part of the day and it stopped every 10 minutes.

 

I think you done proved my overheating motor hypotenuse, budrow.   :thumbsup:



#17 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 06:34 PM

Yes, I replaced the motor.

 
 

with a new Motor ?


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#18 Chuck Gibson

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 07:10 PM

 

with a new Motor ?

 

I bought it off of the net as a NEW motor. It was encased in a Styrofoam casing that split in the middle to separate and it had wiring instructions and adapter connections with it. It was also in a plastic bag for whatever that means... I will try to exchange it and if the next one does the same thing I will get my cash back and buy elsewhere. I will come back and post my results.

 

For now, I say thank you great warriors for your time and patience!



#19 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 07:24 PM

I bought it off of the net as a NEW motor.

Whirlpool FSP part # 279827 ?


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#20 Chuck Gibson

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 07:38 PM

It has "Replacement for 279827" printed on the box but it does not specify Whirlpool FSP. Is there such a thing as aftermarket appliance parts? Looking at the motor it does have a sticker with the dreaded "Made in China"..... I seen this when I received it but just figured that everything is made in China nowadays....








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