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Chuck Gibson

Kenmore electric dryer shuts off

65 posts in this topic

Replace the thermo fuse in the back. Little white cylinder with 2 blue wires on it. I've seen them fail just like that even thought they say they can't.

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just for other's  reference, can you post a scan of the instructions,

and pictures of the motor and adapters ?

The adapters are merely crimp style 1/8" female spade connectors.

 

I have the picture and the scan ready to download but I can't find an attachment icon.... How do I post them for you?

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Replace the thermo fuse in the back. Little white cylinder with 2 blue wires on it. I've seen them fail just like that even thought they say they can't.

In the back? Sorry... I'm not very swoooft on this. Do you mean at the back of the motor or the back of the dryer or what?

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just for other's  reference, can you post a scan of the instructions,

and pictures of the motor and adapters ?

OK folks, How can I post these pics for ya'll?

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post the pictures to some photo sharing website,

then post the links here

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motor picture is too small, fuzzy

 

Has this Dryer worked OK for you, up till now, at this location ?

 

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motor picture is too small, fuzzy

 

Has this Dryer worked OK for you, up till now, at this location ?

Sorry about the poor pics. I retook a cpouple with a better camera so hopefully you can see it better. Please notice that some of the copper wire has turned black as if it has been burned right under the white sticker. And yes, it has ran fine for years in that same spot in the garage. Once you guys had me questioning this motor I notified the man who sold it to me that there may be a problem and he sent me a reply stating that he had put another one in the mail to me. I was planning on getting the one you guys recommended but he had already sent a new one on its way. If the one he is now sent does not work excellent from the get go I will try to get a refund but regardless I will be buying the motor you requested.. Will update soon! Check this link:  http://www.mediafire.com/folder/a9cpeyqzh58vw/Dryer_Info

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... notice that some of the copper wire has turned black as if it has been burned right under the white sticker.

that's no good

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that's no good

Were these pics clear enough? What looks different about this cheap motor than a OEM motor?

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That is definitely burnt out windings on that new motor and for sure would be the problem.  It's possible the windings where damaged, (something could have nicked across two or more of the windings and caused them to short together which could have caused an immediate burnout of the motor windings).

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... What looks different about this cheap motor than a OEM motor?

no "UR" newer official Underwriters Laboratories symbol

no "CSA" Canadian Standards Association symbol

 

RPM 1/25 ?

How do you spell "Dryer" OR "Drier" ?

 

5cyq.jpg

 

po7e.jpg

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Wow! I wish I would have come to this forum before I started this little repair task.....

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OK Folks. The drama continues.... I received the new motor today and there is a difference in the first one they sent me and this one. The first one they sent me that you have already seen a picture of has a white piece wired in to the plug connection. The new one does not. Here is the pics comparing the two. What is this white piece? Is this the thermal cut off removed? Here is the link to the pics... http://www.mediafire.com/folder/i706bfqux7r1z/New_Motor

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. What is this white piece? Is this the thermal cut off removed?

could be, sorry, I don't know

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BTW... I notified the seller that the motor is being returned for a refund and have ordered the one you guys recommended from Repair Clinic...

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New China built motor should have worked if you installed it, overload was just of a little different design.

 

One has the overload completely hidden in black plastic switch housing with wires running to connection points, other with exposed overload has a buss bar going directly over to exposed overload then the black wire off overload into motor windings.

 

And it's not 1/25 rpm - the top of the 7 is just in light print - 1725 rpm.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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New China built motor should have worked if you installed it, overload was just of a little different design.

 

One has the overload completely hidden in black plastic switch housing with wires running to connection points, other with exposed overload has a buss bar going directly over to exposed overload then the black wire off overload into motor windings.

 

And it's not 1/25 rpm - the top of the 7 is just in light print - 1725 rpm.

Actually I did install it. I left the drum out so the motor would not have a load on it and it ran for one 60 minute cycle and I started it over. It stopped running after about 25 minutes.

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I am working on a Kenmore Mod. 110.64722400. This dryer when set on 50 minutes will run 20 - 30 minutes and shut off before the cycle is complete.

Has this Dryer ever worked OK for you at this location ?

OR is it a "new" installation ?

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Has this Dryer ever worked OK for you at this location ?

OR is it a "new" installation ?

Yes. It has worked well there since day one. The new motor from Repair Clinic has been tracked to arrive here Saturday.

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Hey keep us updated! We like to see good results!

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NOOOOOO! The motor from Repair Clinic came in this morning and I installed it. It ran about 35 minutes and shut off. What do I look for now?

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The dryer has ran in that same spot in the garage for over 20 years with no problem....BUT, this is Texas and it is getting hot! After reading this post, Early this morning I set a fan in the dryer housing aimed straight at the motor and it ran a 60 minute cycle without stopping. I tried it again this afternoon in the hot part of the day and it stopped every 10 minutes.

 

 

Did you try the fan trick again?

 

Any dryer motor will trip the internal thermal protection if it's running in an environment close to or over 100F.  

 

The difference between the chinese motor you had before and the OEM replacement is that the OEM motor will simply stop running without frying the motor winding varnish like the chinese motor did.  

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Did you try the fan trick again?

 

Any dryer motor will trip the internal thermal protection if it's running in an environment close to or over 100F.  

 

The difference between the chinese motor you had before and the OEM replacement is that the OEM motor will simply stop running without frying the motor winding varnish like the chinese motor did.  

No I did not use the fan. I completely assembled the dryer and checked to make sure there was no resistance turning the drum. I also replaced the felt seal on the back of the drum as it looked worn. It is hard for me to believe that the ambient temperature is causing this problem because we have ran a dryer in that very same spot since 1989 with no problems. I am not sure how old this dryer is but we bought it new and it has ran right where it is now since then and it has been a lot hotter than it is right now. Is there anything else this can be?

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... It ran about 35 minutes and shut off. What do I look for now?

try running the Dryer on a full Air-fluff / no-heat cycle

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