Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Chuck Gibson

Kenmore electric dryer shuts off

65 posts in this topic

OK. The dryer has just run three 30 minute cycles back to back on Air Dry (no heat) without stopping. What does this tell us?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

seems the Motor is OK

did you ever test a normal heat cycle with the Vent disconnected ?

also, what are the Vent temperatures ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

seems the Motor is OK

did you ever test a normal heat cycle with the Vent disconnected ?

also, what are the Vent temperatures ?

I took the vent off and turned on the heat cycle. It ran for 25 minutes and shut off. I was not on top of it when it shut off to check the temperature at that instant, but I monitored I for a couple of cycles and it was going down to 115 deg. and going up to 160 deg. What is normal?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

that sounds about normal temperatures

 

Dryer Vent 4" diameter

Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F
Check / clean the Dryer Vent
Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.
Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,
$ 3.99 sometimes on sale for $ 2.99
image_1255.jpg


 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

that sounds about normal temperatures

 

Dryer Vent 4" diameter

Vent should be rigid metal.

Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.

NO plastic

NO PVC

NO screws

Foil Duct Tape is OK.

With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F

Check / clean the Dryer Vent

Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.

Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,

$ 3.99 sometimes on sale for $ 2.99

image_1255.jpg

 

 

It is running a flexible metal vent tube...the same one that has been running for years. I took the tube off and cleaned it completely out all the way including where it exits the house. I also took off the lent screen support and cleaned it out as well. The readings I posted were taken right at the point where the air comes out at the back of the dryer with the tube removed. The thermometer I used is very similar to the one you have pictured only it is a digital meat thermometer. In a little while I will start the dryer again and monitor it until it shuts off. Maybe for some reason the temperature climbs excessively at some point causing it to shut off. Is there anything else you can think of that will cause this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I set the dryer temp at med/high where it usually runs. The timer was set for 60 minutes and it ran for 35 minutes before shutting off. At this shutoff point the temp was reading 121 deg. It would not restart for about ten minutes. After restarting it ran for about 17 minutes and shut off. This time it started right back up. Ran 3 minutes, stopped and then started right up.  It stopped a couple of more times but started right up every time. During this process the temperature ran consistent from about 114 deg. - 145 deg.

 

I set the dryer temp on high and the timer for 60 minutes. It stopped after 30 minutes and at that time the temp was showing 132 deg. It ran pretty consistent between 123 deg. and 153 deg. It ran 15 minutes and shut off. It started right back up. It shut off several times as before but started right back up each time. 

 

I set the temp on low/delicate heat and it ran the same as with the other settings. The temp ranged between 110 deg. and 144 deg.

 

In each of the cycles it kind of stumbles a time or two just minutes before it finally shuts off.

 

Should the temperature differ more between the heat settings?

 

What do you guys think?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

there may be too much friction on the Drum causing the Motor to overheat,

more so when the Dryer adds addition heat

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

there may be too much friction on the Drum causing the Motor to overheat,

more so when the Dryer adds addition heat

It was shutting down the same way without the drum in the dryer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

there's not much else ..

Motor

friction

heat

 

voltage / wiring (had been working OK before)

Check the voltage at the Motor

maybe Blue to White

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

there's not much else ..

Motor

friction

heat

 

voltage / wiring (had been working OK before)

Check the voltage at the Motor

maybe Blue to White

OK Grand Master, This grasshopper needs further instruction. I have a great multi tester. I can do wonders checking on automotive problems but I haven't got a clue on how to check the motor or the wiring on a dryer. Do you have a tutorial for this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I doesn't appear that you've paid any attention to the motor contacts in the timer.

 

Post#4 from JJ Surfer said:

 Posted 08 July 2013 - 11:25 PM
Sounds like something in the motor circuit is heating up due to a poor connection, it could be in the timer, but check thermal fuse and wire connections at the motor. Can anyone post a wiring diagram?

 

 

You've pretty much rolled out the motor it seems.

 

Check to make sure the door latch is not broken and letting the door pop open, (most likely not the problem but it has happened before).

 

Then check the door switch and timer contact points BK-Black to BU-Blue, if it's the timer it would have to be those contact points.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I doesn't appear that you've paid any attention to the motor contacts in the timer.

 

Post#4 from JJ Surfer said:

 

You've pretty much rolled out the motor it seems.

 

Check to make sure the door latch is not broken and letting the door pop open, (most likely not the problem but it has happened before).

 

Then check the door switch and timer contact points BK-Black to BU-Blue, if it's the timer it would have to be those contact points.

I have tried to download the schematics that were provided with that post with no luck. I realized that I needed to "like" the page and share the coupon on FB so I have now done so but I still cannot download the file.

 

How do I go about checking the BK to BU connections? Do I use an ohmmeter with the dryer off? Or maybe a voltmeter with the dryer on? Should I do these checks after the dryer has shut off before moving the timer? What position should the timer be in during any checks?

 

Sorry for all of the questions but checking this circuitry is foreign to me....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FIXED! Saturday morning while sipping a cup of coffee I was retesting everything that had already checked out OK. With the dryer running I was testing the voltage at the voltage block and it was showing a solid 240 volts. While I was testing it the dryer stumbled as I had described before while my test leads were still attached, the voltage dropped for a half of a second and went back to 240 as the dryer picked back up. It stumbled again with the same results. At that point I tested each side to the middle connection. One side showed a steady 120 while the other side would drop to 60 every time the dryer stumbled. I pulled the plug out of the wall slightly so I could access the prongs. I got the same results so I realized this was a power problem. I checked the breaker and it was solidly set on. I flipped it back and forth 8 or ten times just hoping to clean dirt out of it or whatever and then it showed a solid 240 volts! I bought a new breaker and replaced it and it has ran excellent ever since. It has ran at least 4 loads of clothes and went through two cycles of 60 minutes each while empty during the heat of the day.

 

I want to give a big THANKS  to all that have spent time trying to help me solve this problem!

 

What I have learned is that even if you show the correct voltage going in to a unit momentarily, don't rule out a defective breaker that is not putting out a steady voltage!

Edited by Chuck Gibson

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good job, good patience. Power issues happen a lot more on service calls than one would expect.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Still running great!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites