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Kenmore electric dryer shuts off


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64 replies to this topic

#61 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 22 July 2013 - 06:33 AM

I doesn't appear that you've paid any attention to the motor contacts in the timer.

 

Post#4 from JJ Surfer said:

 Posted 08 July 2013 - 11:25 PM
Sounds like something in the motor circuit is heating up due to a poor connection, it could be in the timer, but check thermal fuse and wire connections at the motor. Can anyone post a wiring diagram?

 

 

You've pretty much rolled out the motor it seems.

 

Check to make sure the door latch is not broken and letting the door pop open, (most likely not the problem but it has happened before).

 

Then check the door switch and timer contact points BK-Black to BU-Blue, if it's the timer it would have to be those contact points.


Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 22 July 2013 - 06:54 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

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#62 Chuck Gibson

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Posted 22 July 2013 - 07:49 PM

I doesn't appear that you've paid any attention to the motor contacts in the timer.

 

Post#4 from JJ Surfer said:

 

You've pretty much rolled out the motor it seems.

 

Check to make sure the door latch is not broken and letting the door pop open, (most likely not the problem but it has happened before).

 

Then check the door switch and timer contact points BK-Black to BU-Blue, if it's the timer it would have to be those contact points.

I have tried to download the schematics that were provided with that post with no luck. I realized that I needed to "like" the page and share the coupon on FB so I have now done so but I still cannot download the file.

 

How do I go about checking the BK to BU connections? Do I use an ohmmeter with the dryer off? Or maybe a voltmeter with the dryer on? Should I do these checks after the dryer has shut off before moving the timer? What position should the timer be in during any checks?

 

Sorry for all of the questions but checking this circuitry is foreign to me....



#63 Chuck Gibson

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 09:51 PM

FIXED! Saturday morning while sipping a cup of coffee I was retesting everything that had already checked out OK. With the dryer running I was testing the voltage at the voltage block and it was showing a solid 240 volts. While I was testing it the dryer stumbled as I had described before while my test leads were still attached, the voltage dropped for a half of a second and went back to 240 as the dryer picked back up. It stumbled again with the same results. At that point I tested each side to the middle connection. One side showed a steady 120 while the other side would drop to 60 every time the dryer stumbled. I pulled the plug out of the wall slightly so I could access the prongs. I got the same results so I realized this was a power problem. I checked the breaker and it was solidly set on. I flipped it back and forth 8 or ten times just hoping to clean dirt out of it or whatever and then it showed a solid 240 volts! I bought a new breaker and replaced it and it has ran excellent ever since. It has ran at least 4 loads of clothes and went through two cycles of 60 minutes each while empty during the heat of the day.

 

I want to give a big THANKS  to all that have spent time trying to help me solve this problem!

 

What I have learned is that even if you show the correct voltage going in to a unit momentarily, don't rule out a defective breaker that is not putting out a steady voltage!


Edited by Chuck Gibson, 28 July 2013 - 09:51 PM.


#64 Spannerwrench

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 02:48 PM

Good job, good patience. Power issues happen a lot more on service calls than one would expect.
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
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#65 Chuck Gibson

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 09:24 PM

Still running great!








Recent blog entries on this topic

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What looks different about this cheap Chinese replacement motor for a Kenmore or Whirlpool dryer compared to the OEM replacement motor?

By Samurai Appliance Repair Man in Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog, on 16 July 2013 - 04:30 PM

Buying cheap, generic parts is always false economy and ends up costing you way more in the long run, not just dollars but aggravation, time spent here at this forum when you coulda been squeezin' on your lady-love... just sayin'.



Don't waste time and money on cheap, imitation replacement parts-- come git you a real , OEM replacement motor with a one y...

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