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Whirlpool Duet dryer (GEW9250PW0) runs too hot.


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19 replies to this topic

#1 chrisxx

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 03:30 PM

Dear Master of Infinite Appliance Awareness,

 

Please forgive me if I'm redundant in my question. I can't seem to find a solution in searching the site data. Feel free to point me to it if you are prone to ponder...who IS this numbskull and why can't he read?

 

My Whirlpool Duet Dryer (GEW9250PW0) is overheating to the point of blowing the thermistor. I've replaced the thermistor & hi-limit thermostat. Tested the cycling thermostat and cleaned the machine thoroughly including the less than 5 foot exhaust vent, the blower path, (all the way to the blower) and brushed/vacuumed the inside of the machine completely. The blower is powerful enough to be blowing the outside damper open COMPLETELY and consistently. I've also removed the heater element, found no breaks in the coils & tested it for continuity which was good. There is also no sign of any part of the coils touching the chassis anywhere. The dryer diagnostic test comes up "88" which is a system "ok".

 

That's the b/g....here's my question. What I DID find that seemed unusual was a horizontal hairline crack in the heater element chassis on the upper end opposite of the element terminals. That portion of the chassis was also visibly darkened from the excessive heat and the lower end was not. The crack was not, (and looks to have never been) dramatic enough to slope or in any way and was only across the center portion of the chassis and did not break on the outer frame. I'm assuming, (perhaps incorrectly) that because the element works, the crack is not a functioning factor or grounding the element.  Am I all wet in my assumption? Finally, although the element tested good for continuity on my analog ohmmeter, I get a ZERO reading when I test either post by touching one meter cable to the chassis. That is to say....the meter doesn't move AT ALL. My meter is set on the lowest ohm measurement (1k) for THAT test. Am I missing something about the crack that is in fact grounding the element?

 

Thanks much! I look forward to your infinite wisdom!

 

Chrisxx

 

 



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#2 Spannerwrench

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 03:34 PM

Picture of the crack you're referring to.
"Suds are not good"
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#3 chrisxx

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 03:47 PM

Spannerwrench... I can picture a lot of cracks that I've seen in life but I don't have a picture of this one. However, it's a small crack completely across the center only portion of the element chassis and the break is barely separated or visible. I can see light through it but barely and both ends of the crack are virtually parallel. I can barely feel when I move a finger across it.



#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 03:54 PM

,,, overheating to the point of blowing the thermistor. I've replaced the thermistor & hi-limit thermostat.

....  on my analog ohmmeter, I get a ZERO reading when I test either post by touching one meter cable to the chassis.

That is to say....the meter doesn't move AT ALL.

1) I don't think it's blowing the Thermistor ... that would be hard to do .. note: Thermistors don't have continuity ..

2) "full meter deflection" (to the right) (default) on the OHM meter ranges isn't  "0" ... it's "infinity

"0" OHMs would be a "full deflection" to the left

(simulated by touching meter probes together)

 

Set the dryer to run an Air-Fluff / no-heat cycle

Check to make sure there is no heat.

 

Run a normal heat, empty load with the Vent disconnected.

 

Dryer Vent 4" diameter

Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F
Check / clean the Dryer Vent
Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.
Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,
$ 3.99 sometimes on sale for $ 2.99
image_1255.jpg


 

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#5 Spannerwrench

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 03:57 PM

I'm just not understanding what you are calling the chassis. If you're referring to the porcelain where the wire terminals connect, that may cause a short in the element. Here's a photo, tell me what number you're referring to as the chassis.Attached File  image.jpg   223.58KB   0 downloads
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

#6 chrisxx

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 04:08 PM

Grand Master Funk.... Thanks! I bought the OEM Whirlpool "Thermal Cut-off Kit" which included a high limit thermostat and what I understood to be a "thermistor." I did so having tested the old "thermistor" post to post which indicated a closed or blown circuit. Is that not the correct way to test it? Thanks for your assistance!



#7 chrisxx

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 04:18 PM

Hi All... Please forgive me. Someone sent a response including a photo and when I clicked on it, I got a "You Don't Have Permission To View This Attachment" message and the whole message disappeared. As a result, I can't respond. Sorry.



#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 04:49 PM

... having tested the old "thermistor" post to post which indicated a closed or blown circuit.

a "closed circuit" is "0" OHMs (full meter deflection to the left)

a "blown circuit" is no meter deflection (stays to the right)

You can't test a Thermistor on the lowest OHM setting ..

You'd need a higher range setting, then, a good Thermistor may show a "partial" meter deflection


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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#9 Spannerwrench

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 04:58 PM

The thermal cutoff kit (part #?) includes a high limit and a cutoff, it does not include a thermistor. Both of the parts included in that kit should be closed. As Reg suggested, you may not understand your meter correctly, or you're not relaying it properly to us. If you we're getting a zero reading, indicating closed, when you were testing the element to 'chassis', then that would indicate a short in the element.
Maybe we're misunderstanding, and you mean zero as in no continuity.
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

#10 chrisxx

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 05:05 PM

GMF...Thanks again for the help. Apparently, I need an improved education on Ohm meters. I AM at least certain that both the new OEM  components seem to be working because when the "thermistor" or whatever it's called was replaced, the machine worked properly apart from overheating.

 

Thanks again for your help and more importantly, your patience!



#11 Spannerwrench

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 05:11 PM

0 resistance is pegged to the right, no continuity the meter stays where it's at. This is the most accurate meter I've ever owned.Attached File  image.jpg   239.36KB   0 downloads
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

#12 chrisxx

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 05:14 PM

Appliantologist...thanks for not calling me an idiot. Yes, When I "test" the element by touching the ohm meter cable, (either one respectively) to the element chassis, (or any other nearby unpainted metal) I get NO response on the meter at all. That's with the meter on the lowest ohm setting. Also, what I'm calling the "chassis" is the metal frame that the heater element coils are mounted on. All of the porcelain/ceramic posts holding the coils in place are in good shape with no cracks and are not out of original position based upon OEM photos.

 

Thanks!



#13 Spannerwrench

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 05:24 PM

Only idiots don't ask questions! There's nothing wrong with asking for help. So now I have a better understanding of what you're talking about, You have a bad heating element. Even though you visually inspected it, it can sag, warp or separate when it gets hot. That would cause the crack in the element housing. If you can post a photo on photobucket or something that would definitely help. But I think I know what you're talking about.
We're here to help not insult, so take nothing personal. You'll get if fixed.
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

#14 chrisxx

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 05:43 PM

Appliantologist... Thanks again! Incidentally, The OEM part number I mentioned for the Thermal Cut-off Kit is 279973.



#15 chrisxx

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 06:34 PM

Appliantologist... If the element is shorting or grounding out, would good continuity still show on the multi-meter? Or in other words, indicate that the element has a good circuit, is operating but is not operating properly?

 

Thanks!



#16 Spannerwrench

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 06:36 PM

Yes ! Some time the element coils become weak and can sag and short out against the housing, they may appear fine when examining, but when they get hot,is when then problem may occur.
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

#17 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 06:44 PM

... 0 resistance is pegged to the right,

... no continuity the meter stays where it's at.

1) pegged to the left

2) stays where it's at (to the right)


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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#18 chrisxx

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 06:49 PM

Thanks SO much! Also, I have a much older heavy duty Whirlpool Dryer suffering from similar malfunctions but it's across town so I don't have the model number immediately available. I can get it later but I thought I'd ask your general advice. Is the Whirlpool Thermal Cut-Off Kit a standard component on ALL of their dryers? I realize that before purchasing another kit I should check to be certain of the part number but I'm just wondering if that kit is generally common to all Whirlpool dryers.

 

Thanks again!



#19 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 06:50 PM

... Is the Whirlpool Thermal Cut-Off Kit a standard component on ALL of their dryers?

no
 
279973
Thermal Cut Out & Fuse Kit
http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=897710
Thermal-Cut-Out-Fuse-Kit-279973-00809440
 
Thermistor
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1181075
Thermistor-8577274-01024578.jpg


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#20 chrisxx

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 06:54 PM

Thanks!






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