Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Fisher Paykel GWL11 -- New Diverter Pump Not Operating


  • Please log in to reply
9 replies to this topic

#1 oncebitter

oncebitter

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 5 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Anchor Steam

Posted 12 July 2013 - 12:08 AM

My GWL11 went dead the other day, so I got a new control board and revived it.  However, the diverter valve was not operational.  Being a common problem, I replaced that as well, but even the new valve is not operational (I ran the test from the GWL10 manual).  Impedance on the valve checks out.  This points to either the control board being broken out-of-the-box or a wiring fault. 

 

The replacement control board was not exactly the same as the old one.  Specifically the diverter circuit was connected via a pig-tail across the module.  Even so, there's no "wrong" way to plug these wires in.

 

What voltage should I expect into the diverter valve circuit while it is activated?  

 

Thanks for the info!

 



Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,245 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 12 July 2013 - 07:04 AM

The perverter valve is just a wax motor with a flapper.  The wax motor in the perverter runs off 120vac that it gets from the control board.  Can check for this voltage at the control board.  

 

Did you buy a new control board from F-P or a used on on that freakin' auction site?



#3 oncebitter

oncebitter

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 5 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Anchor Steam

Posted 13 July 2013 - 07:25 PM

Thanks for the quick reply!

 

The board is only putting out ~14Vac when the valve circuit is enabled via the diagnostic panel, so that sounds the culprit.

I got the board from "letstalkparts.com" -- looked new but might have been a refurb.  Doubt FP is making this part anymore.

i guess we'll see how their customer service is now.

 

If this all goes south and I have to buy a new washer, what's your recommendation?



#4 nickfixit

nickfixit

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,182 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Glen Livit

Posted 14 July 2013 - 09:26 AM

Front load LG washers are the best on the market at this time. But, if you liked the FP, there is no reason not to get a new one.

Nick.
" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#5 oncebitter

oncebitter

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 5 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Anchor Steam

Posted 14 July 2013 - 07:33 PM

Thanks for the advice.  The FP is 10 years old and came with the house so I'm not overly attached to it.  

I just hate throwing out stuff that's not broken.



#6 Vets Appliance

Vets Appliance

    Sōhei

  • Sublime Master of Appliantology
  • PipPipPip
  • 107 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Caffeine

Posted 14 July 2013 - 08:19 PM

Try this:

 

Unplug the diverter connections at the valve and test for 115 across the wires with the diverter out of the circuit.

 

You say the valve coils check out for resistance, what did you get? 1.2k to 3.6k or something in that ballpark or did you get a lot less?

 

As a former F&P warranty tech I can't advise strongly enough that you pull the hoses and triple check that a bobby pin wasn't hiding in a hose and then slip down into there after you installed the new valve. It never takes much to jam them... a quarter, bobby pin or safety pin is all it takes and if one was still in the hoses when you swapped valves.... yea.

 

Also, those F&P's are almost always worth fixing. Odd thing is that bad main bearings and main lip seal is one of the cheapest fixes in the whole machine (under $20 for parts). No transmission, clutch or brake to go bad either.

 

They're an odd design and have their weak points, but they have strong points no one else can match too.


Edited by Vets Appliance, 14 July 2013 - 08:22 PM.

Me: "Why are my customers always so happy to see me arrive but then say they hope to not see me again anytime soon?"
Joe Customer: "Because we have to pay you to leave."

#7 nickfixit

nickfixit

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,182 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Glen Livit

Posted 14 July 2013 - 10:10 PM

Did you properly configure the new board to the rest of the machine. You don't just swap controls on a FP, there is a specific sequence to configure the new board to match your washer. The instructions would have come with the new board. And Vets is right, double check for diverter valve obstruction.

Nick
" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#8 oncebitter

oncebitter

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 5 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Anchor Steam

Posted 15 July 2013 - 10:44 AM

I was getting around 2.6k resistance at the wiring harness at around 68F.  Voltage off the board was only 14Vac when energized.

 

My wife mentioned this morning that she heard a 'pop' at some point during the first load, so I'm pretty convinced the mosfet went.  Question is... why?  Had to be a short somewhere, so maybe I test for continuity between the wiring harness connector and cabinet ground (ie. frayed wire)?  The valve-side connection is well protected from leaks.  Is it worth putting a fuse on that line?

 

@nick:  I did size the machine after installation following the instructions, and double checked it.  PermPress loads wash just fine.



#9 oncebitter

oncebitter

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 5 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Anchor Steam

Posted 30 July 2013 - 11:30 AM

Final update:

I got a replacement board from LetsTalkParts at no cost and everything works perfectly now. I added a 250mA fuse on the diverter circuit just in case whatever happened this time happens again.

 

Thanks to everyone here for their help and suggestions.  Beer money is en route.



#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,245 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 30 July 2013 - 03:08 PM

Domo for letting us know how it turned out!  






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics