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Maytag Neptune FAV6800AWW belt replacement question


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3 replies to this topic

#1 MRGoodding

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Posted 15 July 2013 - 09:35 PM

Hi Grand Master.

 

I've been reading blog posted Feb. 25, 2011 by Crisscross and I have a question. To start at the beginning, I have a Maytag Neptune top load machine Model #FAV6800AWW, serial #13521455EV so, a series 13. I purchased the machine April 18, 2005.  My machine made a high pitch whining (almost like a teakettle noise) when beginning the wash cycle. water and clothes in the machine. The motor whirling noise went up (like it was going to begin) and then down and then blinking light came on the start/pause button. Long story short, we have run troubleshooting diagnostics (pressing wrinkle control button) and if done right came up with 8, 40, 24, 6, 10. My husband removed tumblers and found no problem other than usual 7 years worth of debris. We have since lifted the top, removed the front panel and found the belt broken and off the clutch pulley. Unlike Crisscross the belt was not frayed and no edge damage just a clean break. My husband says he can see wear at the break site but to me the belt looks almost perfect except the break. Ok, so in the crisscross posting a member with name dh1200s asked Crisscross to spin the clutch pulley CCW, the large wrap spring would compress and the wash basket would begin to rotate CCW. We did that and the basket did rotate, so good there. We didn't understand the next sentence which is "Check here to ensure the Spinner support is turning freely in the Outer tub bearings"???? Not quite sure how to do that but we didn't notice a problem. Next dh1200s told Crisscross to rotate the clutch pulley CW to see if the tumblers began to rotate immediately, ours did but after a few full rotations the clutch pulley stopped and would turn no more. Is that normal or should the clutch pulley continue to rotate as long as we are turning it? Again, dh1200s next sentence said "Checking that the Agitator shaft is turning freely in the spinner support bearings and the tranny is not locked up". This is probably a stupid question but does it mean that the tranny is locked up because we could not continue to turn the clutch pulley or have we simply decompressed the spring?? We also did the Outer Tub Bearing test recommended by dh1200s and the tub spun freely and gently came to a stop. Didn't detect a problem there. So please enlighten us O' wise One what does that sound like to you? We truly appreciate your time and this website!



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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 17 July 2013 - 06:13 AM

What error codes are you getting?

 

Here's an old topic with some additional info on diagnosing clutch problems in this washer:  http://appliantology...une-fav6800aww/

 

Here's the service manual:  http://appliantology...service-manual/



#3 MRGoodding

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Posted 17 July 2013 - 02:35 PM

THANK YOU GRAND MASTER,  :imnotworthy:

 

I have seen "dc" a few times and a second code that had an L. I thought it was "oL" (machine paused, load wedging) but diagnostics have shown "Lr" (locked rotor).

 

I need to tell a little history. The problem started a month ago. The first and only time I, (like an idiot  :banghead: )  had too much in the washer. I had a load of towels and the cherry on the sundae was a stuffed animal, a rain soaked raccoon. The washer went out of balance on spin and showed code "dc". I  removed half the load and repositioned. It continued to completion. When the washer failed a week ago, I loaded the machine (not heavy stuff and medium size) turned it on and went outside. My dogs alerted me to a high pitch noise, screeching. I came in to see the washer had stopped and I didn't have my reading glasses on but I'm positive the code had an L, my impression was "oL" but Maybe "Lr". Stupid me  :wallbash:  I opened the lid and the code display went away so I couldn't verify with proper glasses. There was water in the machine (and clothes) and when I removed the clothes I think it was soapy water meaning the washer could not perform the wash cycle. There was water on the floor (not a lot) in front of the machine and it appeared the water came from the seam where the top of the washer meets the front panel. That's when I called AE Factory for an appointment because our usual appliance repair service wouldn't touch it. The AE guy did no diagnosis except to run the spin only cycle. The machine did spin for the test but did not spin after that. Gave me an estimate for $926.00 and left  :ohmy:.   The real kicker is that the hand held printing device that printed the estimate was low on ink and I can't even read all of it (just the prices, not the description) :mad:. My feeble mind is trying to remember what he said. He recommended the transmission (warranty), the clutch, the basket (warranty) and the cherry on that sundae was the basket support thingy (ya know, the close to $400.00 thingy). Since he did no examination, I had no faith  :nono: and decided to dig deeper.

 

I did get the service manual from your website , thank you, and had my husband remove the tumblers to see if there was an obstruction. Nothing there. He reassembled. We tried TWO times to run a wash cycle without clothes, the water filled, the motor sound revved up then down and start/pause light blinked. I did run one diagnostic in the service mode, pressing the wrinkle control key and got: 8 = water level sensor fault, 40 = washer not operating due to tumble not functioning, 24 = Motor high RPM detected two times,  6 = locked rotor forcing a shut down (so it was "Lr"), 10 = Unbalance or cabinet hit detected during final spin (the raccoon?),  which prevented the spinner from exceeding 500 rpm. That's all the diagnostics I have so far. My husband did remove the front panel and we did find the belt broken and laying on the floor of the machine. I'm mustering the courage to run more diagnostics and will try the motor control board test when hubby gets home. 

 

So, the 8 indicates the water level sensor, the 40 means tumblers not turning but there is no obstruction they do turn manually (was it because of the broken belt?), 24, motor high rpm detected two times (the test runs we did?), it's the 6, locked rotor that concerns me, is it a bad motor control board, clutch or transmission(all of them?) I'm guessing the locked rotor broke the belt. Oh, we looked carefully at the motor mounts and surrounding area and found no cracks. When the washer failed there was no burning smell.

 

I'm figuring my parts needed list would be, at least: 1. the belt (has it ever been concluded if stretch belt #25001504 is the correct belt?)

 2. water level sensor   3. possible motor control board and maybe clutch and transmission. What do you think? Did the raccoon kill my machine? Would you recommend looking for a knowledgeable technician to get a complete diagnosis or just buy a boat since I already have the anchor?

 

:thanks: I really appreciate any insight/ opinion and your time!!!!



#4 MRGoodding

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Posted 17 July 2013 - 03:04 PM

Always forget something... I did read the recommended clutch topic thread and I forgot to report that I can manually spin the basket CCW and the disc/tumblers DO NOT turn.






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