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reissgirl

Kitchenaid ice maker not filling with water/ making ice.

17 posts in this topic

I have a Kitchenaid KBFA20ERSS01 french door fridge/bottom freezer drawer. My ice maker flooded my freezer once, and now it doesn't make ice and doesn't fill with water. It doesn't sound like it's even trying to fill with water. I looked at the water tubing behind the unit, and nothing looks frozen there. I detached the ice maker unit from inside the freezer to check the supply line coming in (flexible white tube coming through the hole in the back of the freezer). There was a small amount of ice there that easily dislodged, but that did not fix the problem. Could there be more ice stuck somewhere that's not visible to me? Could it be the main water valve even though there is no water at all entering the unit? The water dispenser in the fridge works just fine. What should I try next? Thanks!!!

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I would be looking at the Ice Maker module first.  Pull the white cover off the front of the icemaker and see if the little gear/wheel on the front of the module is loose or broken off.

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The gear is snug and intact.

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Test the icemaker by jumpering test points T to H:

 

 

If the icemaker doesn't cycle, then you have a bad icemaker.  Don't mess with replacing just the control module because for just a few bucks more, you can get a whole new icemaker:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Ice-Maker-Assembly/D7824706Q/915772?modelNumber=KBFA20ERSS01

 

Ice-Maker-Assembly-D7824706Q-01519604.jp

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I tried shorting T&H with a black insulated wire - I installed a light fixture yesterday so I had some extra electrical wire. It didn't make the ice maker gear turn, so I guess that means that I need a new module? Should I check anything else before throwing in the towel on this unit? Is it possible that there's a problem with the fuse wires shown above, or is it most definitely the ice maker unit itself? Thanks again!!!

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... Should I check anything else before throwing in the towel on this unit?

... Is it possible that there's a problem with the fuse wires shown above,

 

on that model, you'll need to close the Freezer Door Switch (Lights OFF)

Also, there's a Fuse for the IceMaker in the black wire of the Harness

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1545244

 

Wire-Harness-D7813010-00706832.jpg

 

parts manual & tech sheets

http://appliantology.org/files/file/1068-kitchen-aid-fridge-kbfa20erss01/

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Get your meter and check 120vac from L to N on the module. If you have voltage there, then you know the control module is getting voltage and the wire harness is good: replace the icemaker.

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Did you make sure you held the door switch closed while jumping T to H?  The power goes through the door switch before it gets to the icemaker, so you need to hold the switch as if the door was closed while jumping the IM.

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Ack, I didn't hold the freezer light switch closed when I originally connected "T" and "H"! Tried again and the gear did indeed turn the full cycle, raising and lowering the arm. Unfortunately the ice maker did not fill with water.

 

I tried jumping "N" to "V" and there was no reaction at all. No water filling.

 

I don't have a meter so I can't test the fuse wire yet. Does this sound more and more like a water valve issue, or should I go through the effort of getting a meter and testing out the ice maker harness? Oh, to add to the list of problems, the fridge now makes a moderate knocking sound every so often. Grrrr.

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I tried jumping "N" to "V" and there was no reaction at all. No water filling

I don't have a meter so I can't test the fuse wire yet.

1) N & V is the Water Valve. . . jumpering those while the IceMaker is cycling, may ruin the IceMaker

2) IceMaker wouldn't cycle at all if the Fuse was bad

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Right ... what Reg said = fuse is good. I've never jumped N to V so I'm not sure what that would do.  I jump L (line) to V (valve) to activate power to the valve.  If the valve hums (or water flows into the IM) then I know the valve is good.  Again - make sure the light switch is closed when doing this.  

 

However ....

 

For a non-techie, my advice would be for you to ohm out the solenoid on the valve at the back.  If you have continuity (there will be some resistance ... I can't remember how many ohms though,) then your valve is likely good and we would go back to the IM.  If the solenoid is open (no continuity), then the valve needs to be replaced.  

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I finally got around to testing this further. I tested the water inlet valve from the back of the fridge. I used a test cord that I attached to the valve, and then plugged directly into the wall. When I did that, nothing happened. The valve did not power up, make any noise, or try to fill the ice maker with water. Sounds like my water inlet valve is the culprit here.

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I tested the water inlet valve from the back of the fridge. I used a test cord that I attached to the valve, and then plugged directly into the wall. When I did that, nothing happened. The valve did not power up, make any noise, or try to fill the ice maker with water. Sounds like my water inlet valve is the culprit here.

 

The test cord is a pretty fool proof test.  Assuming the fill tube is not plugged, it sounds like you nailed it.  

 

Water fill valve:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Water-Inlet-Valve/67005154/1071263?modelNumber=KBFA20ERSS01

 

Water-Inlet-Valve-67005154-00760030.jpg

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I'll report back after I install the new valve.

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The ice maker works again! I replaced the dual water valve and we have ice again! Thanks for all of your advice here!

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Great job!   :dude:

 

Thanks for posting the followup!  

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