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Ge Fridge - GSH25JFXB BB - Freezing in food section.


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11 replies to this topic

#1 Tone Blair

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 01:11 AM

MD. GSH25JFXB BB

 

I was called in after another company F'D the job up.

 

The other company supposedly installed a new main computer and replaced the food section Thermistor.

 

When I got there, water and wine were frozen in the food section. No Bueno!

 

I hooked up my diagnostic tool and ran a thermistor check, the food section, and freezer section both failed.

 

I pulled the food section damper cover off to find a cheap damper cover assembly, I thought there was going to be the motorized damper with thermistor attached, but it was just a cheap cover with a thin, clear piece of plastic, that acts as the damper,  which I thought was odd.

 

I replaced both the food/freezer Thermistor, reset main control board, then redid the thermistor check, and they both failed again after i installed new ones.

 

So, my questions are:

 

1. Did they fail because the board is bad??

2. Did they fail because they weren't at a low enough temperature yet?

       - I've had this happen before and wasn't sure why they had failed.

3. Should I install a new board?

4. Can I install a motorized Damper??

 

 

Everything else seemed to be working fine.

 

After their horrible encounter with the previous company, I didn't want to just install another computer unless they absolutely needed it.

 

I told them to monitor the temp for 48hrs I would follow up with them.

 

They said water was still freezing in the food section.

 

So whats the next step??

 

 

Thanks Almighty Appliance Wizards!!



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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 01:34 AM

depending on the first (3) characters of your Fridge serial number,

may be a service bulletin on the MotherBoard

 

It seems there may be (4) Thermistors:

(2) in the Freezer side:

one of them in the Evaporator

one for the Custom Cool ?

 

(2) in the Fridge side:

one in the Fridge

one in the Damper area

 

according to the MotherBoard installation Instructions,

there should be NO WIRES CUT

not in Step 2

not in Step 4

 

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#3 Tone Blair

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 01:57 AM

One of these days, i will make sure to always get the GD serial number!!! GEEZ!!

 

Anyway, from what memory serves.

 

There are 2 thermistors in freezer, 1 on the evap, and 1 down below by the defrost drain.

 

I replaced the one by the drain.

 

In the food section, I believe there was only 1 by the damper, but now that I think of it, I'm not sure if there was a lower one or not.

 

I replaced the damper one.

 

I will get the serial number, and I have encountered the boards with the NO-WIRE cut installs, so I will double check that, and in the event I have to install a new board I will make sure to do it correctly.

 

So anything other than that, that I can look out for??

 

Thanks for the lightning speed response, I need to get this handled asap!!



#4 Tone Blair

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 02:07 AM

In the event that previous company cut the wires, what are my options? Just splice the wires back together??



#5 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 03:51 AM

In the event that previous company cut the wires, what are my options? Just splice the wires back together??

Yep. Let:s just hope they followed the golden rule of wire cutting "always cut your wire leaving enough wire left on both sides of the cut so that you can reattach the wires just in case you make a mistake, and you will make a mistake."

2 things regarding the Diagnostic kit. Some models you have to connect the aid to the mainboard instead of the port, otherwise you may get interference from the existing interface. . This is usually true for non-encoder fridges like a 4 button GE. Connecting the aid directly to the board must be done where the existing interface connects to the board so this automatically disconnects the existing interface. Not sure if this applies to your situation but something to always remember. I've forgotten several times and got screwy readings until I did the "doh!" thing.

Also I have found that the thermistor testing order as described in the manual for the aid, doesn't square with the thermistor order as found on the j1 connector. If I am not mistaken, the aide's manual says thermistor test 4 is the freezer thermistor and thermistor 3 is the evap thermistor when we all know thermistor #4 at j1is the evap thermistor and #3 is the freezer thermistor.

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#6 Tone Blair

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 03:56 AM

Man, I didn't know that, thats good to know. And I always  wondered about the order of the thermistors, I had a feeling #4 was referring to the evap.

 

Thanks for the invaluable knowledge!



#7 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 04:46 AM

Man, I didn't know that, thats good to know. And I always  wondered about the order of the thermistors, I had a feeling #4 was referring to the evap.

 

Thanks for the invaluable knowledge!

I am still learning this thing too.  Let's keep good notes and maybe we can determine a definitive testing order. 


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#8 Tone Blair

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 06:42 PM

SOUNDS GOOD TO ME!



#9 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 20 July 2013 - 11:19 AM

tone, this is fucking crazy but, had the same model just 2 weeks ago. same issue. 22 degrees in the ff section...also, no mechanical damper. turns out, some Paco at the factory had failed to installed the required mechanized damper...you know , the one it shows in the BREAKDOWN...this unit was sold by my company as-is...SO, i feel like its safe to assume this is the reason it got returned in the first place from the original customer.
order the damper ass and you will get one with the mechanical door intstead of basically a shell.
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#10 KCTBURY

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 02:58 AM

I would test the thermistors with an ohm meter at the board. They should test 16.3k ohms at 32 degrees.

Unplug j1 from board

put your black lead in wire 5 on the j1 plug

test Freezer Evap. red lead 4th wire 

Freezer compartment red lead 3rd wire 

Refrigerator sides wire 2 and then wire 1

 

I generally replace the evap one when there are odd problems because it goes through extreme temp changes.  



#11 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 03:52 AM

1192074498_YnRVM-L.png


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every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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#12 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 06:25 AM

Testing thermistors at the board for resistance is always the best method. Testing using the aid can be confusing and only tests for short, not for out of spec thermistors. Still, I want to know the exact testing order of the aid. I guess the best way to do that is to run its diagnostics after I cut a thermistor and see what thermistor result changed.

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