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      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

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jiggersplat

pump won't stop

18 posts in this topic

Frigidaire CRTF1240

 

Drain pump won't stop.  Last one burned itself out.  Pump & timer have been replaced.  If I start the washer, it fills the tub, washes, then when shifting to the rinse cycle, the pump turns on, drains the tub, and then just keeps running.  Any help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Dan

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... the pump turns on, drains the tub, and then just keeps running.

the Pump should run for about 5 minutes ...

Does the Timer Motor keep running, or stop ?

has this Washer worked OK for you, at this location, up until now ?

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1) Used to only work on delicate cycle only.  Other cycles, the timer would not advance.

 

2) Recently, would not draining and would not advance at all.

 

3) Replaced timer.

 

4) Still didn't drain, checked voltage at pump and was good.  Removed pump cover to find burned up connection between motor winding and harness contact.

 

5) Removed pump, cleared trap.  Soldered pump winding back to contact, verified with ohm meter (18 ohms)

 

6) Reinstalled, tested unit on short wash cycle.  Tub fills, washes, timer advances, pump kicks on, drains tank, washer starts refilling for rinse, pump keeps running @ 100% duty cycle.  I let it run for 3 or 4 minutes after all the water was pumped out and it started to get warm before I shut the whole thing off.  Pump motor cleary states 20% duty cycle (2 minutes out of 10) on it.

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Post scans of your tech sheet so we can see the timing chart, wiring diagram, and notes.

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Domo, Reg!

 

Does this washer ever spin?  If not, that's why the drain pump keeps running and the problem is the no-spin condition-- the drain pump running is the EFFECT of the no-spin, not the CAUSE.  

 

You have either a bad door latch assembly or a bad motor control board.  

 

Door latch assembly are a common fail item-- replace it first:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Door-or-Lid-Latch-Assembly/131763202/1531974?modelNumber=CRTF1240AS0

 

Door-or-Lid-Latch-Assembly-131763202-015

 

If that doesn't fix the problem, you can return it for a refund and replace the motor control board:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Motor-Control-Board/134149220/1206430?modelNumber=CRTF1240AS0

 

Motor-Control-Board-134149220-00710323.j

 

Save time and buy both parts at once.  Return the one you don't need.  

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Yes, it spins.

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You left that crucial detail out in your original problem description.  

 

What else have you left out?  

 

Our help is only as good as the information you give us. Garbage in, garbage out. 

 

Please re-state your COMPLETE problem description.

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Sorry about that.  I'm not sure what other details I can provide other than what I've stated here http://appliantology.org/topic/43371-pump-wont-stop/#entry261848.  In general, the washer seems to be working as expected with the exception of the pump running continuously once it starts.

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Did you use new, OEM replacement parts when you replaced the timer and pump or were they generics?  If they didn't come in a blue Electrolux bag, then you got generics.  

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They did not come in a blue bag.

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They did not come in a blue bag.

 

Read this post:  http://appliantology.org/blog/1/entry-677-a-warning-about-buying-cheap-appliance-parts-from-amazon-or-ebay/

 

Return the cheap, generic parts you bought for a refund. 

 

Buy the genuine, OEM parts here; comes with a one year return or replace policy, even after they've been installed and used:

 

Drain pump:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drain-Pump/137108000/1467804?modelNumber=CRTF1240AS0

 

Drain-Pump-137108000-00779450.jpg

 

 

Timer:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Timer/134014700/890258?modelNumber=CRTF1240AS0

 

Timer-134014700-00694393.jpg

 

You can test the timer by using your meter to see if the contacts open and close at cam 14, contacts 19 (center) to 24 (bottom), as you rotate the timer knob through the cycle (see the tech sheet inside your washer for the timer pinout diagram).  If those contacts stay closed the entire rotation or from the rinse cycle to the end, the contacts are welded shut.  A cheap, generic pump can cause this from excessive current draw or start current.  

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Dan, you might to go ahead and replace that pump.  Also check the pressure switch and hose for any restriction.  Most Frigidaire symptoms you're describing are related to a bad pump or restriction in the sump, or a problem with the motor speed control board.

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Well, I ohmed out the timer and it seems fine.  After I figured out how to read the timing diagram, I sat there through the entirety of the short wash cycle it did exactly what it was supposed to do.  The real problem here is the manufacturer of the pump did not bother to do their homework and supplied a 20% duty cycle motor for a system that needs something closer to 50%.  The pump ran for about 4 minutes at a time during the two rinse cycles and then for about 8 or 10 minutes straight during the spin cycle out of about 30 minutes total..  To be honest, I'm pretty peeved that someone would sell a replacement motor with specs so distance from what is actually required of the part.

 

For the record, the pump appears to have been manufactured by "Askoll", and I guess I don't have to tell anyone else on this forum to stay away from 3rd party parts, eh?

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... the pump appears to have been manufactured by "Askoll",

looks like the correct Pump is also made by Askoll

137108000

but from what I can see on RepairClinic parts picture,

Askoll M65

it maybe says 10 min ON / 50 min OFF

00782822.jpg

 

 

But, on another site, I also found this 137108000

yk38.jpg

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Don't worry about the markings on the pump, they've used both pumps over the years, same duty cycle just expressed in shorter terms.  If timer is working properly the pump will hold up OK and you shouldn't have a problem.

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yk38.jpg

 

yeah, that's the one.  i'd be less worried about it if i hadn't had one of them burn up on me.  the clear plastic shroud was discolored from the heat.

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