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Inglis Whirlpool dryer dead


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47 replies to this topic

#1 papitohead

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 11:35 AM

Ingis Whirlpool dryer

Heavy Dury Super Capacity

5 Cycle - 3 temperatures

Probably manufactured on 14 Oct 2009

 

I have disassembled the back part and found a lot of lint and foreign objects such as pencils etc. Cleaned everything very thoroughly. The door switch has continuity, the start button has continuity when pushed. The thermal fuse located on the fan housing has continuity. There is power into the unit. Yet, does not do anything.

 

btw, the control panel p/n is: W10207807


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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 12:24 PM

Dryer model number ?

gas OR electric ?


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#3 PDuff

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 04:26 PM

Part number provided is just for the console.  If unit is an electric dryer, check incoming voltage at outlet or even better at terminal block in back or dryer.  Should have 120 volts from L1 (black) to Neutral (white).  120 volts from L2 (red) to Neutral (white).  240 volts from L1 to L2.  While at terminal block examine wires for damage.  Wiring diagram should be located inside control section and will show what contacts to test on the timer.



#4 papitohead

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 04:51 PM

Yes, is electric and as stated, there is power. Checked power in both L1 & L2.

 

I know is the console, but there is not part number in dryer or the instruction or installation booklets. 


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#5 Spannerwrench

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 05:25 PM

Open the dryer door, the data tag shoul be right there.
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
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#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 09:05 PM

... There is power into the unit.

120 v from L1 to Neutral ?

120 v form L2 to Neutral ?

240 v from L1 to L2 ?

 

Has this Dryer worked OK for you up till now at this location ?

 

My eyesight isn't as good as it once was blink.gif (see RegUS_PatOff )


but from here it looks like your model number may be

IED4400VQ1

 

While some pushes the Start Button,
measure for 120 v from each side of the white Thermal Fuse to chassis (a good ground)
 
Repair Part List - W10244426
Wiring Sheet - W10185979

Edited by RegUS_PatOff, 13 August 2013 - 01:36 PM.
IED4400VQ1

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#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 24 July 2013 - 06:18 AM

gallery_4_2_331285.png

 

 

 

If the voltages check out, you may be dealing with a floating neutral.  This would give you voltage but no return path for current flow so no power (current and voltage).  And outlet checker with a light is one way to check for this.  Here's the one I use:  http://www.repaircli...4396932/1176379

 

But even these may not catch all the various ways an outlet could be messed up, and they can be tricky to catch, like this one:

 



#8 papitohead

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Posted 25 July 2013 - 11:11 AM

I did open  the front door and found the sticker with the following information:

 

MOD lED4400VQ1

TYPE: DWJR-ELE-2406026-FM54

SER MY4325707

 

Also did check the power before the white thermal sensor and have 120VAC also after the same sensor and also has 120VAC. No loose wires anywhere. as stated before, there is 120 VAC at L1 and L2.

 

The dryer was brought here about 3 years ago and has been here since being a new unit.


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#9 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 25 July 2013 - 12:12 PM

OK,

Dryer Control still set to run a dry cycle:

now, while holding the Door Switch closed, check it's Blue wire to chassis / ground for 120v AC

(no longer need to hold the Start Switch)


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#10 bigbuck

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Posted 26 July 2013 - 12:07 PM

Had the same model dead.Found it was the timer made in china.Cheapest looking timer i ever saw.



#11 papitohead

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 11:13 AM

OK,

Dryer Control still set to run a dry cycle:

now, while holding the Door Switch closed, check it's Blue wire to chassis / ground for 120v AC

(no longer need to hold the Start Switch)

Thanks for your reply. Did not answer before because I was out of town. 

I did do what you suggested and placed the meter on the blue wire of the door switch by pushing the positive probe of the tester into it and found NO power at all. Would this be the timer?


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#12 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 04:32 PM

sorry, my mistake, the Start Button does need to be held pressed during this test.

Should be 0v .. if OK, then test White Wire of Drum Motor to chassis.

Should also be 0v


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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

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#13 papitohead

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 05:37 PM

Thanks for the reply again. Now, to get this straight, I should do the following:

 

Control set to drying cycle

Door close to press button

Press start button

Test blue wire for voltage and should be zero volts

Test white wire of Drum Motor to chassis and also should be zero volts ( Is this the white wire from the door button???) 


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#14 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 08:39 PM

 ( Is this the white wire from the door button???) 

no


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#15 papitohead

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Posted 30 July 2013 - 11:23 AM

Ok, got you on that.

 

There are two white wires besides others on a bundle coming out of the inside where motor would be. One of the two has a red stripe and the other white has a black stripe. I hate to disassemble the insides if the motor is not the culprit. 

 

Thanks


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#16 papitohead

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 07:21 PM

I am still stuck with the same problem. Please help!


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#17 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 07:27 PM

need to test the voltage at the Motor wires while trying to Start the Dryer


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#18 micabay

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 07:40 PM

... as stated before, there is 120 VAC at L1 and L2.

 

So when you put the red Probe on L1 and the Black one on L2 you read 120 Volts AC?



#19 papitohead

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 07:49 PM

So when you put the red Probe on L1 and the Black one on L2 you read 120 Volts AC?

Of course not. I stated 240v


need to test the voltage at the Motor wires while trying to Start the Dryer

I know you told me about the white wire but there are two coming out of there, One of the two has a red stripe and the other white has a black stripe.


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#20 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 08:26 PM

... there are two coming out of there, One of the two has a red stripe and the other white has a black stripe.

post a picture somewhere ?


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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw




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