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Inglis Whirlpool dryer dead

48 posts in this topic

Ingis Whirlpool dryer

Heavy Dury Super Capacity

5 Cycle - 3 temperatures

Probably manufactured on 14 Oct 2009

 

I have disassembled the back part and found a lot of lint and foreign objects such as pencils etc. Cleaned everything very thoroughly. The door switch has continuity, the start button has continuity when pushed. The thermal fuse located on the fan housing has continuity. There is power into the unit. Yet, does not do anything.

 

btw, the control panel p/n is: W10207807

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Dryer model number ?

gas OR electric ?

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Part number provided is just for the console.  If unit is an electric dryer, check incoming voltage at outlet or even better at terminal block in back or dryer.  Should have 120 volts from L1 (black) to Neutral (white).  120 volts from L2 (red) to Neutral (white).  240 volts from L1 to L2.  While at terminal block examine wires for damage.  Wiring diagram should be located inside control section and will show what contacts to test on the timer.

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Yes, is electric and as stated, there is power. Checked power in both L1 & L2.

 

I know is the console, but there is not part number in dryer or the instruction or installation booklets. 

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Open the dryer door, the data tag shoul be right there.

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... There is power into the unit.

120 v from L1 to Neutral ?

120 v form L2 to Neutral ?

240 v from L1 to L2 ?

 

Has this Dryer worked OK for you up till now at this location ?

 

My eyesight isn't as good as it once was blink.gif (see RegUS_PatOff )

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

but from here it looks like your model number may be

IED4400VQ1

 

While some pushes the Start Button,
measure for 120 v from each side of the white Thermal Fuse to chassis (a good ground)

 

Repair Part List - W10244426

Wiring Sheet - W10185979

Edited by RegUS_PatOff
IED4400VQ1

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gallery_4_2_331285.png

 

 

 

If the voltages check out, you may be dealing with a floating neutral.  This would give you voltage but no return path for current flow so no power (current and voltage).  And outlet checker with a light is one way to check for this.  Here's the one I use:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tester/4396932/1176379

 

But even these may not catch all the various ways an outlet could be messed up, and they can be tricky to catch, like this one:

 

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I did open  the front door and found the sticker with the following information:

 

MOD lED4400VQ1

TYPE: DWJR-ELE-2406026-FM54

SER MY4325707

 

Also did check the power before the white thermal sensor and have 120VAC also after the same sensor and also has 120VAC. No loose wires anywhere. as stated before, there is 120 VAC at L1 and L2.

 

The dryer was brought here about 3 years ago and has been here since being a new unit.

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OK,

Dryer Control still set to run a dry cycle:

now, while holding the Door Switch closed, check it's Blue wire to chassis / ground for 120v AC

(no longer need to hold the Start Switch)

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Had the same model dead.Found it was the timer made in china.Cheapest looking timer i ever saw.

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OK,

Dryer Control still set to run a dry cycle:

now, while holding the Door Switch closed, check it's Blue wire to chassis / ground for 120v AC

(no longer need to hold the Start Switch)

Thanks for your reply. Did not answer before because I was out of town. 

I did do what you suggested and placed the meter on the blue wire of the door switch by pushing the positive probe of the tester into it and found NO power at all. Would this be the timer?

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sorry, my mistake, the Start Button does need to be held pressed during this test.

Should be 0v .. if OK, then test White Wire of Drum Motor to chassis.

Should also be 0v

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Thanks for the reply again. Now, to get this straight, I should do the following:

 

Control set to drying cycle

Door close to press button

Press start button

Test blue wire for voltage and should be zero volts

Test white wire of Drum Motor to chassis and also should be zero volts ( Is this the white wire from the door button???) 

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 ( Is this the white wire from the door button???) 

no

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Ok, got you on that.

 

There are two white wires besides others on a bundle coming out of the inside where motor would be. One of the two has a red stripe and the other white has a black stripe. I hate to disassemble the insides if the motor is not the culprit. 

 

Thanks

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I am still stuck with the same problem. Please help!

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need to test the voltage at the Motor wires while trying to Start the Dryer

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... as stated before, there is 120 VAC at L1 and L2.

 

So when you put the red Probe on L1 and the Black one on L2 you read 120 Volts AC?

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So when you put the red Probe on L1 and the Black one on L2 you read 120 Volts AC?

Of course not. I stated 240v

need to test the voltage at the Motor wires while trying to Start the Dryer

I know you told me about the white wire but there are two coming out of there, One of the two has a red stripe and the other white has a black stripe.

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... there are two coming out of there, One of the two has a red stripe and the other white has a black stripe.

post a picture somewhere ?

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Thanks, I will get that done in AM

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Just trying to keep it simple, is the belt broken by chance? Most all the Whirlpool dryers have a broken belt switch that opens the circuit when the belt breaks. It also can go bad and give a false reading to the board that the belt is broken even though it's not. But then this ONLY applies to units with lint screen down in front not on top. :kopkrab:

Edited by phydeauxe64

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When you turn the timer knob do you hear it click when it goes past the OFF section? I've seen knobs that were stripped out that wasn't turning the timer to dry cycle. Before this unit quit running did the motor make a Humming or buzzing noise at all? If so the motor maybe bad. Mainly when you first started the dryer did you hear a hum or buzz sound?

 

Ingis Whirlpool dryer

Heavy Dury Super Capacity

5 Cycle - 3 temperatures

Probably manufactured on 14 Oct 2009

 

I have disassembled the back part and found a lot of lint and foreign objects such as pencils etc.

 

btw, the control panel p/n is: W10207807

Edited by phydeauxe64

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post a picture somewhere ?

I did get to the motor and yes, there is only one white wire but it has a red stripe on it. I checked it as you said and have 0v. No broken belts, all seems to be in place, and the drum turns with no problem thus, the motor is no seized (maybe burnt, but turns freely).

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While the Dryer is set to a run cycle, and someone presses the Start Button,

if there's 0v on the White wire and 120v on the Blue Wire, then the Motor should be running (or making noise)

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