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Inglis Whirlpool dryer dead


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47 replies to this topic

#21 papitohead

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 08:47 PM

Thanks, I will get that done in AM


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#22 phydeauxe64

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Posted 05 August 2013 - 12:51 PM

Just trying to keep it simple, is the belt broken by chance? Most all the Whirlpool dryers have a broken belt switch that opens the circuit when the belt breaks. It also can go bad and give a false reading to the board that the belt is broken even though it's not. But then this ONLY applies to units with lint screen down in front not on top. :kopkrab:


Edited by phydeauxe64, 05 August 2013 - 02:48 PM.


#23 phydeauxe64

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Posted 05 August 2013 - 02:45 PM

When you turn the timer knob do you hear it click when it goes past the OFF section? I've seen knobs that were stripped out that wasn't turning the timer to dry cycle. Before this unit quit running did the motor make a Humming or buzzing noise at all? If so the motor maybe bad. Mainly when you first started the dryer did you hear a hum or buzz sound?

 

Ingis Whirlpool dryer

Heavy Dury Super Capacity

5 Cycle - 3 temperatures

Probably manufactured on 14 Oct 2009

 

I have disassembled the back part and found a lot of lint and foreign objects such as pencils etc.

 

btw, the control panel p/n is: W10207807


Edited by phydeauxe64, 05 August 2013 - 02:47 PM.


#24 papitohead

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 01:57 PM

post a picture somewhere ?

I did get to the motor and yes, there is only one white wire but it has a red stripe on it. I checked it as you said and have 0v. No broken belts, all seems to be in place, and the drum turns with no problem thus, the motor is no seized (maybe burnt, but turns freely).


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#25 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 02:33 PM

While the Dryer is set to a run cycle, and someone presses the Start Button,

if there's 0v on the White wire and 120v on the Blue Wire, then the Motor should be running (or making noise)


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#26 papitohead

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 03:24 PM

Thanks for your patience, I did check and the only blue wire that comes out the motor goes to a fuse on the exhaust fan and then to the control button. There is 0v either pushing or not pushing the start button. Is there a way I can run a jumper from anywhere to the blue wire to see if it is the control that is bad?


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#27 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 03:39 PM

... a fuse on the exhaust fan and

isn't that the white Thermal Fuse that you tested earlier and got 120v on each side ?


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#28 papitohead

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 03:16 PM

isn't that the white Thermal Fuse that you tested earlier and got 120v on each side ?

Thanks, you are 100% correct. I went back and discovered that my wife had turned the control to OFF. So turning the clock back, here is my findings and of course, double checked them:

 

White wire coming out of the motor has 120v and when start button is pushed, then 0v

 

Blue wire from the motor to fuse on exhaust fan and to control has 120v and when start button pushed it goes to 0v.

 

Sorry for the previous mistake, it happens with cheap help. lol. But I did tell her to click the control to off the last time we did the experiment.


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#29 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 04:35 PM

... White wire coming out of the motor has 120v and when start button is pushed, then 0v
... Blue wire from the motor to fuse on exhaust fan and to control has 120v and when start button pushed it goes to 0v.

something's not right ... that's backwards ...

Has this Dryer worked OK for you up till now at this location ?

 

check the voltages at the Dryer Cord Terminals Strip again

Red to White (center)

Black to White (center)

Red to Black

 


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#30 papitohead

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 11:54 AM

something's not right ... that's backwards ...

Has this Dryer worked OK for you up till now at this location ?

 

check the voltages at the Dryer Cord Terminals Strip again

Red to White (center)

Black to White (center)

Red to Black

As stated before, no one has touched this dryer other than using it by my wife. It was brought here by Bestbuy people and plugged in by them. That is all. Have never been serviced by no one.I understand by you saying something is backwards. I did check twice last night and checked again this morning and get the same results. One thing we noticed last night is that I went to take a reading at the control blue wire wich is the one we have been testing at the fuse and for some reason, the motor kicked on until letting the tester's probe disconnect from the control button. We tried it again and again it kicked on. Today I tried it again and will not kicked on as it did last night. Would a faulty control button assembly make polarity switch?


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#31 micabay

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 07:00 PM

There should be no polarity, this is all A/C circuits not D/C.   Is the cord plugs burn?  take a flash light and look into the outlet at all 3 (or 4) holes.  any discoloration? any burnt marks?



#32 papitohead

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 11:25 AM

I did check the wall plug and everything looks very clean. I checked the wires etc and then voltage. No problem with the power form wall to connector strip of the dryer.


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#33 micabay

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 03:38 PM

This one is becoming a puzzler. Have you checked the continuity on the tension pully switch?

#34 certified tech group 51

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Posted 10 August 2013 - 10:08 AM

Recheck a few things.......Thermal fuse , with one blue wire disconnected, you get continuity???????...........take your DDM and attach one lead to a good ground and the other lead to the listed points.....................Set timer to any cycle, do you get 120 volts A.C. at the terminal with the blue wires, on the timer ?????..........120 volts A.C. at the  'Push-to-start' ( PTS) button,   Blue wire from the timer??????............Push the  Start button, 120 volts A.C. at the blue wire from the start switch????????........On one of your last posts, you said the motor started....  What are you calling the control button ????...........You may have had your meter set for " amps"  and just completed a circuit.....



#35 papitohead

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Posted 10 August 2013 - 04:49 PM

Thanks for  you trying to help me out. And yes, I have done all the tests you have mentioned and several times to make sure. In my previous posts I have stated such. What I call the controller is the selecting button which controls the cycles you wish to use. When the motor started the other day is when I touched the blue end on the cycle selector to read voltage form there to the push button switch. I was surprised by this and tried it again and this time it happened by just touching the same terminal of the cycle selector button and to my surprise, I was not touching anything with the neg probe of the multimeter tester. It acted as an antenna to explain it better. Next morning I went to do the same checks but this time the motor did not start.

 

I am sure I am using the AC volts and not amps of the multimeter tester.


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#36 micabay

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Posted 10 August 2013 - 10:13 PM

How about making a YouTube video of you testing everything mentioned in this thread. Maybe we will catch something you missed?

#37 bigbuck

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 08:48 AM

http://www.repaircli.../3406107/528948

Have you check the door switch?Sometimes the black plastic lever will brake off all the way or it will still be there, but will not make the circuit with door closed.Jump out the thermal fuse with a jumper to eliminate the fuse when testing.Good luck.



#38 certified tech group 51

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 10:32 AM

Set meter to volts, one lead to a good ground............Set dryer timer to any setting.........Door closed..................You said you got 120 volts ac out of the blue wire terminal on the timer......Touch the meter probe to the thermal fuse, ( P/N 3392519 )  motor side of the fuse..............Push the start button..........What is the voltage?????........If no voltage, you may have a bad "Push-to-start" relay.....P/N 3401144.............This test is  checking the ' hot' side,  120 volts to the motor,  you could still have a faulty 'neutral' side.......wire, timer contacts or door switch........



#39 papitohead

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Posted 12 August 2013 - 08:44 PM

All that you have mentioned have been checked. And more than 6 times by now. Really disappointed. I am not giving up and will continue to play with it. I would appreciates any more hints.


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Posted 13 August 2013 - 12:27 AM

Continuing on,    Attach one lead of your meter to a good ground....Door closed, timer set to Timed-Regular.............Attach the other lead to the timer terminal 'W'..........press the start button......Voltage is ????.............................attach to the timer terminal 'T'.....Press  the start button.....Voltage is ?????     If you are getting 120 volts, the 'power is just passing thru'....Not doing any work....( one long wire from the L-1 to the point of measurement )...........Which takes us back to a faulty door switch or a faulty wire connection...............( I would have taken the white wire off the timer terminal and attached it to a good ground and pushed start by now )......






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