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LG Combo Washer/dryer not drying


28 replies to this topic

#1 sblocki

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 04:20 PM

Hello!

I am having a similar problem to a post noted in 2011, but I'm not sure what he did to fix it.  So this is what I have.    I have a WM3677HW LG combo washer/dryer that is not drying.  It is washing fine.  It then takes forever to run through the dry cycle only to give us soaking wet laundry and sitting water in the bottom.    We have extensive work done on it without results.   Here is what has been done.   The filter board was replaced because it had at some point overheated apparently early in it's lifecycle according to my repairman.  He has serviced it frequently and said it "always looked that way."  The second repair man saw it and replaced an filter board.  He replaced a main board.  He then replace the valve assembly.  He then replaced thermistors.  He then replaced the main board, valve assembly and thermistors all at the same time.  Each time it has been worked on.  It seems to work completely one time before reverting back to its old pattern of soaking wet clothes.  From the forum, we tried something today.  We checked the resistance of each solenoid on valve assembly.  Each was around 500 ohms.  Then we ran a load of clothes through with the dryer valve assembly "unplugged."  Wellah!  Dry clothes.  However, it took three times as long to dry than usual  What do you make of this crazy thing?   We would definitely appreciate some help with it. We purchased it originally because venting and the 220V on a conventional machine is not a real viable option.   I hate to throw in the towel, but I cannot keep paying for service bills that don't fix it.  Thanks!



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#2 Spannerwrench

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 04:29 PM

When you disconnected the valve and ran it were you backed up on laundry and did a full load? Remember, when using a combo washer-dryer you can only do half loads. If you fill it up for the wash cycle there isn't enough room for air flow during the dry cycle.
You may have nailed the problem but tested with an oversized load.
"Suds are not good"
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#3 sblocki

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 06:56 PM

Thank you for the suggestion. I don't think it was overloaded, but who knows. We have used the machine for a few years now and have done ok until this last bout. Any clue what it could be? Why does it work right once and then revert after part has been replaced? Not sure what to do with this new knowledge. Thanks again. Grasshopper

#4 PDuff

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Posted 24 July 2013 - 10:16 AM

Provided the dryer element, thermostat and fan are good, it almost sounds like an intermittent draining problem.  Lint filter clear of restriction and drain pump running ok?



#5 sblocki

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 01:42 PM

The water seems to drain fine during the wash cycle.   We are not sure about the dry cycle draining.  There may be an issue.   Here is what happened...we "unplugged" the valve assembly plug that adds water during the dry cycle.  Wellah, the dryer works fine, but it dries hot because there is no water being added.  It seemed that the pump did pump, but maybe not as well when we did plug it back in?   All of the lint filters have been professionally cleaned.  It would leave the drain pump suspect? 



#6 Spannerwrench

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 02:10 PM

Taken from the training manual, pretty basic operation.

The dryer portion of the COMBO is a condenser type dryer. It works on the
principal that water condenses on a cool surface, similar to moisture collecting on
a cold drink on a hot and humid summer day. A fan circulates air through the
warming duct, drum, and condenser and over and over. The air is warmed
because warmer air holds more moisture than cooler air and the heat causes
more of the water to be evaporated form the laundry. The warm, moist air is
directed through the condensing duct, which is cooled by a spray of cold water.
This difference in temperature causes the moisture to precipitate in the
condenser, where it and the cooling water are exhausted by the drain pump. The
air, now dry, is passed over the warming element and through the laundry again
as the process repeats itself. Because the air is recycled instead of exhausted, a
vent and lint filter are not necessary for this type dryer.
Heater malfunction check
Attached File  image.jpg   147.87KB   0 downloads
Fan malfunction check
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All of the parts in this image need to be cleaned.
Attached File  image.jpg   154.6KB   0 downloads
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

#7 john63

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 11:39 PM

<<<It is washing fine.>>>

<<<It then takes forever to run through the dry cycle only to give us soaking wet laundry and sitting water in the bottom.>>>

<<<We have extensive work done on it without results. Here is what has been done.>>>

<<<The filter board was replaced because it had at some point overheated>>>

********

Not necessary to replace if---the plastic appears distorted/warped (not defective).

********

<<<He replaced a main board.>>>

********

Not necessary. A wild guess that did not pan out.

********

<<<He then replace the valve assembly.>>>

********

If the COLD WATER VALVE ASSY was replaced---the ***correct*** part number should be: 5220FR2008E

********

<<<He then replaced thermistors>>>

********

Pointless. Thermistors virtually *never* fail in the LG combo.

********

<<<He then replaced the main board, valve assembly and thermistors all at the same time.>>>

********

Time for a straight-jacket---and a trip to the psych ward.

Plan of attack as follows...

1) Remove the DUCT from the tub. Pay particular attention to the area of the duct---where it connects
to the bottom of the tub. Clean the duct system thoroughly.

2) Replace the DRAIN MOTOR (4681EA2001T)

3) Verify that the COLD WATER VALVE ASSY is the ***correct*** one. If not---replace it (5220FR2008E)

Repeat the above steps---every 3 years.

Laundry can be loaded into the tub---3/4s full.

When the laundry becomes wet during the *wash* cycle---the laundry will *sag* within the tub---to approximately 1/2 or less of the tub opening.

This will permit faster drying---than an overloaded combo unit.


Oops. Have to be careful not to be a bully with my knowledge---nor to overly favor the LG brand in particular...Good luck:)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 04:10 AM

:woohoo:

 


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every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 07:31 AM

Mucho domos for the excellent assist on this one, Brother John! How I've missed your parsing prose patiently stepping us through the problem and to the solution.

And welcome back, I hope!

#10 sblocki

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 03:47 PM

Thank you John63 and all others for your thoughts!!   The funny thing about the repair history is he was talking to LG when he replaced all three.  I do need a straight jacket at this point, but the repair may be coming more obvious.    The duct that you are referring to, is that the one on top of the unit?  If so that has been cleaned multiple times.  We did a little further testing today.  We ran the unit plugged back in (valve assembly) and it sounds like it is pumping out water on the wash cycle, but we don't think it goes as well as it used to.   The stumper is why does it not pump out water when it dries.  It sounds like it is trying.  Clog or bad pump?  Also, could this be why is seemed that there was water sitting in the drum. 



#11 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 04:39 PM

... he was talking to LG when he replaced all three.

and I got a bridge for sale to you .


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#12 Spannerwrench

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 05:04 PM

Ocean Front Property in Arizona?
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

#13 sblocki

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 06:38 PM

Ok, ok! No bridges or waterfront property in Arizona. Any other helpful advice?

#14 john63

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 10:22 PM

<<<The duct that you are referring to, is that the one on top of the unit?>>>

**************

Not so much the top portion of the duct---but the bottom---where the duct attaches to the rear of the tub. If the combo is used heavily (8 or more loads of laundry per week)---a large blob of lint can accumulate. This obstruction would restrict airflow during the dry cycle.

**************

<<<We ran the unit plugged back in (valve assembly) and it sounds like it is pumping out water on the wash cycle, but we don't think it goes as well as it used to.>>>

**************

Drain Motors can fail---but still operate/run.

A "tired/slow" Drain Motor will cause damp-to-wet laundry at the end of the dry cycle.

Typically---an LG washer (not a combo) Drain Motor has an average service-life of about 5 years.

An LG Combo (washer & dryer) Drain Motor can wear-out or fail in as few as 2 years---with heavy use.
This is due to the increased run-time of the Drain Motor---in a combo.

The COLD WATER VALVE ASSY in the combo is unique in that one of the valves has an orifice within it---to restrict the amount of water entering the Duct Assy during the dry cycle.

The failure rate of a Cold Water Valve is also higher in the combo unit.

It is also not uncommon to find that an incorrect Water Valve has been installed. An incorrect valve will allow *full/wide-open throttle* water to enter the Duct Assy during the dry cycle.
If this is the case (incorrect valve)---the laundry will *never* dry.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#15 sblocki

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 10:34 PM

John63 and Dean of Appliantology... Thank you for your help and additional clarifications. All helps! Found the service manual online so with that and your help I'm sure we will get it figured out! Many thanks!

#16 sblocki

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 10:37 AM

All the final answer is... the pump (drain motor).  It was just failing.    http://www.repaircli...EA2001T/2003273

 

With two hours of labor in/out and a pump.  It is done.    Thanks for everything! 



#17 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 07:23 PM

Domo for the update!



#18 sblocki

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 10:43 AM

Ok I'm back!  This time I haven't had the repairman here to fix the combo.  We all know what happened the last time!   I think the current problem has something to do with all the parts that were removed, replaced and messed with from the last debacle.   So, I'm asking you the guys who know what you think.  The appliance shuts off during any/all cycles at any time about once a day sometimes on a consecutive load and sometimes not.  It gives the error code "PE."   Go!  Thanks in advance for your ideas! 



#19 john63

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 11:06 AM

"PE" error:

 

Water Level Pressure Sensor Error.

 

 

1) Verify that the black tube is still connected to the Water Level Sensor at the top of the washer---and to the Air Bell at the bottom of the tub.

 

2) Remove the black tube from the Water Level Sensor---and blow into tube---to clear a possible blockage. Reconnect and test washer.

 

3) Water Level Pressure Sensors (6601ER1006E) *rarely* fail.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#20 sblocki

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 01:13 PM

Will do! Thanks!








Recent blog entries on this topic

Photo

LG WM3677HW Combo Washer/dryer - washes okay but doesn't dry

By Samurai Appliance Repair Man in Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog, on 07 August 2013 - 08:19 AM

One common problem with these combo laundry units is that they'll stop drying the clothes. The dryer portion of the combo unit is a condenser type dryer. It works on the principal that water condenses on a cool surface, similar to moisture collecting on a cold drink on a hot and humid summer day. A fan circulates air through the warming duct, drum, and co...

Read Full Entry →

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