Kenmore washer motor? switch.
Posted 25 July 2013 - 12:56 PM
Posted 25 July 2013 - 01:01 PM
I still have to go back and find out if its going to overheat the motor in agitate. This one is really testing my assumed knowledge.. I thought I was somewhat smart... lol
Posted 25 July 2013 - 01:57 PM
There's no spring involved. After drain, the motor stops and the neutral drain plate latch disengages due to centrifugal force. This allows the spin pawl to engage the spin gear which will cause slight movement of the basket before the motor starts again for spin. The spin gear is operated by the spin pawl on the neutral drain plate. The spin gear drives the spin pinion gear which drives the clutch.
Posted 25 July 2013 - 02:29 PM
... started it up it drained, but did not move to spin cycle, turned off switch, tried to start, get the hummmm.
post a YouTube video,
then post the link here
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Posted 25 July 2013 - 02:46 PM
start cap, read 65 uf, suppose to be 185-220 ? cant read is specs that good, swaped it out with the other units start cap, motor is getting hot, triping thermals, so leaning towards mechanical failure of centificual springs in motor or the other switch i put in dosent hit the lever properly. Now I'm Asking here to be sure I have the function in my mind correct. the motor mechanical flys up and keeps the start winding out of circuit during high speed via switch on motor. . BUT or if it (switch ) does not make, the start winding would continue to run, (would or could) causing a overheating of motor, and a hot capacitor, and would also cause the cap to fail.
The weak start cap, 65 uf instead of 85-120 would have caused me trouble trying to start in the spin cycle, it didnt have enough kick in that jack ass to move the cart.
Posted 25 July 2013 - 03:04 PM
... start cap, read 65 uf, suppose to be 185-220 ?
... swaped it out with the other units start cap
... motor is getting hot, triping thermals, so leaning towards mechanical failure of centificual springs in motor
... or the other switch i put in dosent hit the lever properly.
1) what are you using to measure it ?
2) did that work ?
3) Does the Motor work OK in Agitate ?
4) what other Switch ?
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Posted 25 July 2013 - 03:29 PM
measured cap with my fluke amp clamp, set on capacitance, motor started getting hot, you can smeeel it hot. Going to put the old motor switch back on it has more plactic on the actuator end.
I need to get it straight in my head and on paper what wire is hot and which one is netural on the start winding, in the agitate mode and then in spin cycle, i need to start motor in either mode and then confirm the switch is droping out the start circuit. Its hot outside and my brain doesnt work as sharp.
The motor winding may be bad, insulation break down, or ??.
Im use to three phase motors, they aint as complicated, Hey I learning. Have books and good help here can learn from the best. Thanks again
hey, what is the resitance reading for the windings, start and high. I have no drawiing ot tech sheet for specs.
Posted 25 July 2013 - 03:48 PM
Capacitor reading is very low, should be 189-227mfd. Yes, the motor will get hot and damage can occur to the capacitor and start winding if not switched out of circuit when motor comes up to speed. In agitate mode, start winding yellow wire is hot, red wire neutral. Reverse for spin mode. Motor switch lever is pushed toward switch with motor not running which closes start contact. Centrifugal mechanism allows switch contact spring pressure to push lever away and open contact when motor is running. You can take the screw out of the motor switch and pull it away slightly from motor to operate it by hand. Hold lever toward switch for starting and then let go of it when motor starts. Switch should open. You can take cover off switch to check contacts.Start winding resistance is listed as 8 ohms plus/minus 3, high speed winding is 1.7 ohms, plus/minus 0.8.
Edited by fairbank56, 25 July 2013 - 04:10 PM.
Posted 25 July 2013 - 05:07 PM
ok, it was the motor switch, not opeing the start circuit, did not over heat. The bad cap was part of it as well..
1. had bad burnt netural white wire on the lower terminal of motor switch,
2. in repairing the leaking pump, the lid switch (broken but servicable, had moved off the lever, that meant I had no netural again. on this model the lid switch opens and closes netural.
3. the motor switch lever was worn, not opening the start winding circuit, caused motor to heat, ol temp sensor opened would not run at all.
4. When the start circuit fails to open ( via the motor switch) this will cause the cap. to fire continusouly and will cause it to fail, and this one at 65 uf was bad.
5. the bad cap. did not have enough kick to overcome a short, start bump distance when spin cycle was initiated. This was basically what you call locked rotor, it just hums, gets hot and again trips the motor thermal. I could rotate the motor back and give it more room to start and it would go into spin . That may be a good test to remember, indicated a weak start cap.
Ok that was, easy..lol man am I making lots of cash on this one, still one more to go. Thanks for your great help. took lots of notes. Two windinings makes a wong!!!
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Posted 25 July 2013 - 05:16 PM
I don't get the motor switch lever part of the problem. If the lever is badly worn, the switch would be open and the motor wouldn't start. The switch is normally closed by lever action when the motor is not running. Once it starts, the centrifugal mechanism moves, allowing the spring tension of the start contact arm (inside switch) to push the lever, which opens the contact (motor running).
Edited by fairbank56, 25 July 2013 - 05:16 PM.
Posted 25 July 2013 - 08:58 PM
the worn one had about 1/16 or more surface wear, (missing) there was enough missing so that the push to open wasnt being made but had enough to make (close). I still have not examined the inside of the switch, ill report back if I get time, pos add a pic, got to go to job interview and find out what is causing concentric rings on my tomatoes, they taste great but ugly...
Posted 25 July 2013 - 09:47 PM
The lever doesn't get "pushed to open", it gets "pushed to close". Remove the switch from the motor and the start winding switch is open. When you install it, the lever goes against the centrifugal mechanism which closes the switch. This allows the motor to start. Once it starts, the mechanism allows the switch to open due to the spring pressure of the switch contact. Here's a photo of the switch pulled away from the motor. The start switch is open. When installed, the lever pushes the switch closed. If the lever gets worn down, the switch won't close, the motor won't start. The other switch is used on 2-speed motors, yours is a single speed. May be that your switch start contacts are stuck closed.
Edited by fairbank56, 25 July 2013 - 09:56 PM.
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