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biggerhammer

frigidaire aeq6000es2 starts /stops no codes

7 posts in this topic

This dryer recently started getting very hot in operation on the top rear center area. Now it will

run for 1 cycle but try to do another cycle and it will start then stop and all lights flash then the 

display just flashes and is non responsive until you do a reset or unplug/replug it . I have tried to

follow the tech manual for the button pushing sequence to do a self diagnostic or even get a code 

but I can;t get any display but the cycle times .. no error codes ?? Am I just to assume its the board

[again!] or is there a "no-code" diagnostic procedure ?? A local parts house suggested the

thermistor was a common  issue but shouldn't I be able to get a code?? I have been selling appliances for 21 years +  and send a lot of folks to this website , but . this time I am stumped . I fear the 

prevailing logic is that if there is no code and it  won't go into test mode that it is the board . But I

cannot help but wonder if the excessive heat up top is the chicken that came before the egg??

Any Ideas out there? Please throw me a bone ! Thanks !! Biggerhammer

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what procedure are you using to get to diagnostics ?

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Press and hold select and cancel for at 6 sec should yield a beep and rES in display it does not. The display goes blank but it does reset immediately after it says to rotate the knob 5 turns counterclockwise to the 2nd position from the bottom have done this only to have a cycle time displayed then I press and hold options and cancel button for 2sec but the screen goes blank again and the buzzer does not sound 3 x as it should I continue rotating the knob clockwise and I either get cycle times or a blank screen with no    displays [ but beeps ] or I just displays cycle times . Any ideas I assume this is the correct procedure is there another way to pull        up codes??    Thanks for the reply --Biggerhammer

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what procedure are you using to get to diagnostics ?

Please see my 2nd Post I did not realize that I could reply directly in short it involves press & hold cancel& select then rotate the knob counterclockwise then hold options & select then rotate the knob clockwise each turn is supposed to yield a different  diagnostic test yet the only thing it manages to respond to correctly [more or less] is canceling the cycle >now when I say re-display the cycle and want to cancel the cycle to shut it off the board will beep and re-display that last cycle all by itself after a couple of sec's  ,  To my dismay the more I describe this problem the more I think another board any ideas on what else to check?  Last but not [i think} least why does the back top center of the dryer get so hot I can barely touch it ?? venting is good     All ideas welcome ... Thanks              

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test to see if the Heating Element is partially shorted to chassis / ground

OR set the Dryer to run an Air-Fluff / no-heat cycle

check to make sure there is no heat.

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? Am I just to assume its the board

[again!] or is there a "no-code" diagnostic procedure ?? 

 

Again?  When was this board last replaced?

 

A local parts house suggested the
thermistor was a common  issue but shouldn't I be able to get a code??

 

 

Not necessarily.  The board will only throw an error of the thermistors are open or shorted, not if they're out-of-spec. But it's easy enough to ohm check the thermistors at the board.  

 

 

I fear the prevailing logic is that if there is no code and it  won't go into test mode that it is the board . 

 

 

 

As do we all.  We're at the mercy of however much information the manufacturers share with us, which many times usually insufficient to directly prove the board is bad.  Many times this proof is indirect, such as by eliminating everything else as a suspect.  Sometimes, we get lucky and the manufacturer issues a tech bulletin on a known problem caused by the board.  

 

So, absent any other info, I always treat a board that won't go into diagnostic mode as a bad board.  IF you're using the correct key dance to enter diagnostic mode!  

 

I'll also buy the board from RepairClinic to cover myself in case I'm wrong.  I've only had to return one board and that was because there was another board that was taking out the board I replaced and I didn't catch it (the customer ended up declining the repair because of the additional cost).  

 

Dryerman had a recent experience with a similar model and it turned out to be the main control board:  http://appliantology.org/topic/43278-frigidaire-dryer-inop/

 

Part link for the main control board for your model:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/134557201/1170677?modelNumber=AEQ6000ES2

 

Main-Control-Board-134557201-00661842.jp

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test to see if the Heating Element is partially shorted to chassis / ground

OR set the Dryer to run an Air-Fluff / no-heat cycle

check to make sure there is no heat.

Tried air fluff = no heat but 3 min into a 15 min cycle it shuts off and all lights on the the start panel flash then it resets to 

the orig 15 min cycle time ?? I did manage to get it to display  a code  which was "FLd " ?? nothing that I could find in my 

tech leaflet . I am back to work on a changing schedule now but,I plan to start pulling it apart aside from the ground to the element is there anything else I should be checking that may be making the board act so wacky after all sometimes it will run almost a full cycle .

This makes me think I should be looking for some sort of  board /ground/connection issue ? 

If it is the board this will be the 2nd replacement  in 5 1/2  years or 3rd including the original. I can't help but think there 

is something else involved .

Thanks Again ! 

Biggerhammer 

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