HELP! This refrigerator is driving me crazy. The customer first reported the freezer not getting cold enough. On my first visit, neither the evaporator fan or condenser fan was running. I replaced the main control board and the unit started working properly. About a week later, the customer called and said both sides were warming up. I returned and observed that the evaporator fan was not running. After disconnecting and reconnecting, the fan started working. The unit operated normally for 2 days then started not cooling properly on either side. I returned and observed that the evaporator fan was working intermittently. I am pretty much at a loss as to what is going on here. Other than the control board, what could be causing the fan to cut off and on? I have checked the freezer sensor, and it ohmed okay. Any troubleshooting suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Bosch Refrigerator B20CS80SNS-02
Posted 25 July 2013 - 07:36 PM
Thank you for the manual; however, if I read the flow chart in section 8-2 correctly, it keeps leading me to either a wiring problem with the evap fan or a bad main control board. I can't see any problem with the wiring and, as I said earlier, the board is new. If anyone has any suggestions on the best way to move forward, I would appreciate it.
Posted 26 July 2013 - 06:26 AM
The board came from Repair Clinic. I have never received a bad part from them, but I am at a loss as to what else could cause the evap fan to start and stop while the compressor is still running. If the compressor cut off, I might think the freezer sensor is faulty, but the compressor is running when the evap fan just cuts off.
Posted 26 July 2013 - 06:42 AM
A common thing with GE refrigerators is that a bad evaporator fan will take out the muthaboard. The uninitiated will replace only the muthaboard, the evap fan starts working only to crap out again later and take the new muthaboard with it. SOP for me in these situations is to replace BOTH the muthaboard and the affected peripheral component(s).
Since we're talking about the same basic technology scheme in all newer model refrigerators-- a muthaboard (single-board computer) talking to and controlling peripheral components (fan motors, sensors, dampers, etc.) I have to think the same vulnerability exists in ALL brands.
The evap fan motor is a DC motor. It may be Fun with Science to measure the evap motor supply voltage at the muthaboard with the evap fan connected and disconnected to see if the fan motor is loading down the supply voltage.
I think the fix here is going to be to replace BOTH the muthaboard and evap fan motor. Smart man buying the board from RepairClinic because you're covered there-- they'll take the old muthaboard back with no hassles.
Evap fan motor: http://www.repaircli.../601067/1385680
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Posted 26 July 2013 - 10:18 AM
Thanks for the input. I will replace both and see what happens. The fan motor that you posted looks nothing like the fan on the refrigerator. Do you know if that is a replacement motor? I'm not sure it will mount properly.
Posted 26 July 2013 - 12:11 PM
Sorry, no pictures available and the refrigerator is 30 minutes away. However, I think I see why it looked different. There is a housing that covers the actual motor, and I was assuming that was a part of the motor. Looking at the parts diagram, I see it is not. Thanks for the help, I will get the parts ordered.
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