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Frigidaire washer LTF2940FE1 front load


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17 replies to this topic

#1 SteveT

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Posted 26 July 2013 - 04:24 PM

I cleaned out the filter in the black hose/assembly between the outlet of the washer drum and the pump. Earned myself 3 quarters and cleaned out a little lint. It really wasn't bad. The washer goes for a while but at some point it just stops. Usually near the final 10 minutes or so. On rare occasions I can get the spin/drain only mode to start and water does come out of the house but stops before it is all out. The drum seems to spin and the belt for the latter seems to be fine. When this happens I can not get the door to open even if I press Pause/cancel. I have to unplug the machine and at some point I am able to open the door. Water is coming thru the hose. What should I check next?



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#2 PDuff

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Posted 26 July 2013 - 06:00 PM

Sounds like you might still have a restriction, possibly between the inner basket and outer tub.  Disconnect the sump hose from the tub like you did when cleaning the lint filter.  Since you can't remove the vanes from the inner tub you might be able to retrieve the foreign object via the sump.  Could be a washcloth or something that is dislodged during wash and may allow most water to drain until it settles over the sump before the tub empties completely.



#3 SteveT

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Posted 26 July 2013 - 08:00 PM

Kohai, thanks but I took it even off of the pump itself to really feel around and nothing. Turned the impeller by hand (unplugged for sure) and it would turn but a bit difficult part way around each time. I figured this should not hurt anything, plugged washer in and started on drain. Pump impeller popped out a bit and turned very briefly then shut down. Maybe I will take the pump out and check with an ohmmeter across its pins. Might as well do the same with the door electric latch. Friend told me he was going to be charged $300 to fix a leak! Worth it to keep on trying things.



#4 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 27 July 2013 - 06:23 AM

Sounds like you pump is bad and not always draining, may sometimes start then hang-up and stop or just fail to start at other times.


William Burk (Willie)
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#5 SteveT

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Posted 27 July 2013 - 10:00 AM

William may be correct. I took the pump out and it shows 0 ohms across the two pins. The specification sheet shows that it should be reading 12 +-7% ohms so maybe the pump is indeed bad.



#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 06:06 AM

These Friggidaire drain pumps are famous for going intermittent, especially once they become noisy.  Best to go ahead and replace it:  http://www.repaircli...mber=LTF2940FE1

 

Drain-Pump-137221600-01078622.jpg



#7 SteveT

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 09:58 AM

Just ordered the pump. Not in stock but supposedly will ship July 31/August 1. Fingers crossed that it is the pump and not the door latch electronics. Oh, I also followed up on PDuffs' idea of something maybe between the two drums. I discovered that with a strong small light I could pretty easily look down thru the holes in the inner drum to the outer plastic one. Nothing there unfortunately.



#8 PDuff

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 01:45 PM

These Friggidaire drain pumps are famous for going intermittent, especially once they become noisy.  Best to go ahead and replace it:  http://www.repaircli...mber=LTF2940FE1

 

Drain-Pump-137221600-01078622.jpg

 

I'm seeing a lot of this lately with Frigidaire dishwasher drain pumps and LG washer drain pumps.  Pump motor runs fine when voltage is applied but when under a load fails to move the water.



#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 03:33 PM

I'm seeing a lot of this lately with Frigidaire dishwasher drain pumps and LG washer drain pumps.  Pump motor runs fine when voltage is applied but when under a load fails to move the water.

 

 

Yep, and I've been similarly burned on this by a Samsung washer drain pump, which is very similar to the LG washer drain pump.  



#10 SteveT

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Posted 02 August 2013 - 06:00 PM

The new pump arrived today. Installed it and poured some water into the drum to check that the connections were tight. Put it on spin/drain and everything seemed to be fine. Pumped cleared out the water and the drum turned. Great. Put in a small load as a test and put it on Quick cycle. Pressed start and ERR should for a second and then nothing. Unplugged and tried again on Normal. Same. Left it unplugged for 30 minutes. No difference. It does make a quick sound like a solenoid or something jumping but then the time just counts down to 1 and stays there. Pretty much the same as I started with. Now I'm not so sure about the pump. Press Stop/Pause and I can open the door and it does lock.


Darn: put in pump and showed in the proper spots. Typing to fast.



#11 JJ Surfer

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 12:13 AM

Main control error possibly, can you pull error codes from diagnostic mode?

#12 SteveT

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 08:02 PM

JJ Surfer, Thanks for your comment.

 

I went thru the codes. First error code E56 came up. I then went thru the next 9 steps. Steps 2,3,4 call for water to flow thru parts of the dispenser and very briefly on each step it did. Can't say if it went in the parts of the soap dispenser called for. Steps 5 and 6 the door lock solenoid locked and released respectively. Step 7 some water came in but it did not fill nor did it tumble. Step 8 the same, some water but no spin. Step 9 the water exhaust pump worked and this time it did go into a high spin. Step 10 came up with the last error code of E56 again. 

 The drum turned smoothly yesterday when I turned it by hand. I will take the belt off as called for and see if the motor itself turns easily by hand and the drum.

 

I checked the filters on the hoses and cleaned them but there was very little blockage there. Put the hoses in a bucket and turned on the water and it flowed fine. 



#13 JJ Surfer

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 02:51 PM

What does E56 mean?

#14 PDuff

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 03:26 PM

E56 = High Motor Current

 

Test 9

 

1)  Remove belt and spin motor pulley, spin tub.  If both are free, check motor.

 

2)  Disconnect plug from motor and measure resistance at pins 4 and 5 on the motor.  If readings are other than 105 and 130 ohms, replace motor.

 

3)  Disconnect plug from motor and measure resistance of windings at pin 1 to 2, 1 to 3 and 2 to 3.  Should read 4 to 6 ohms.  If correct, replace speed control.  If not, replace motor.



#15 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 03:52 PM

If correct, replace speed control.  If not, replace motor.

 

Speed control board:  http://www.repaircli...mber=LTF2940FE1

 

Motor-Control-Board-134743500-01199716.j

 

 

Motor:  http://www.repaircli...mber=LTF2940FE1

 

Drive-Motor-137043000-01231761.jpg



#16 SteveT

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Posted 05 August 2013 - 11:02 AM

OK, took off the belt and the motor spins very easily and also the drum turns smoothly.

All the ohm readings across the pins come out within the ranges given by Pduff and the trouble shooting paper in the washer. So, it seems that we are down to the speed control board next to the motor? Would that keep water from entering the drum as seems to be the problem? Maybe it seemed that the water pump wasn't working as this board shut down water coming in and also shut down the pump? Expensive part so just wanted to check with those who know these things.

JDSurfer,  sorry for not listing what the error code meant. I was so concentrating on my problem that I forgot that there are a number of manufacturers and a great many different models and therefore codes. At least PDuff was kind enough to make up for my error. 



#17 SteveT

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 08:51 PM

Since I installed the speed control board the washer has been fine. I switched my old pump back in and the machine is still fine so I sent back the new one. Thank you all for your suggestions and help.



#18 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 07:06 AM

Domo for the update!






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