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maytag msd2756 freezer cool/fridge not so much


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10 replies to this topic

#1 wannabeagrasshopper

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Posted 26 July 2013 - 10:05 PM

I have (still) the infamous Maytag msd2756 fridge. A couple of years ago, the great advisors on this board helped me diagnose and change the ADC board. Working fine since.

 

Issue now is that freezer is cooling (pulling 0 degrees), but fridge is about 50 degrees.  Did some basic research, checked the coils and all looks good. I even caught it in a defrost cycle, so that looks good. Fan is working.  I then adjusted temp controls so that beer box and ice cream box were not both "colder".  Fridge got down to 42-ish.

 

If all of the cooling takes place in the freezer, and only the air flow controls the beer box, then I'm not sure what else to look for or do next.  Was trying to see how the temperature control affected the damper. Could it be stuck in a not-so-open position?

 

Because this is an older fridge now, some of the articles or diagrams that were once out there, are no longer available.  Any suggestions and advice would be greatly welcomed!

thank you,

Elizabeth (Wannabeagrasshopper)



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#2 vee8power

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Posted 27 July 2013 - 08:44 AM

I would check this part.

http://www.repaircli...Number=61003600

I'm thinking maybe this part is bad or the gear connecting it to the lever is misaligned. With a warm fridge side, the door should be open. It is independent of the freezer thermostat or ADC board.



#3 wannabeagrasshopper

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Posted 27 July 2013 - 02:44 PM

thank you!

Can you tell me how/where to see how the temperature control level opens/closes the damper?  Seems like it should be obvious, but i haven't seen it. The interior cover (ceiling of the fridge) pops down, but not off. There are probably hidden screws that I haven't found yet.

Ideas?



#4 vee8power

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Posted 27 July 2013 - 05:00 PM

Part #21 hanging down in the front, held up in the back by two hooks? There are two notches in the back of #21 to get your fingers into. Reach in those two holes and push both hooks toward the freezer. The cover will then slide forward and off the hooks.

 

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#5 vee8power

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Posted 27 July 2013 - 05:05 PM

What I meant to say was push the hooks away from each other, the left one push left, right to the right.



#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 27 July 2013 - 05:30 PM

... I have (still) the infamous Maytag msd2756 fridge.

... A couple of years ago, the great advisors on this board helped me diagnose and change the ADC board.

... Working fine since.

http://appliantology...-control-board/

also must make sure when re-assembling 4, 5, and 7's

that the "notches" align


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#7 wannabeagrasshopper

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 01:57 PM

ok - grasshopperwannbe is getting brave.

Have much of this apart now, and was looking at how the temperature rod (#5) did move the gear (#7) when i moved the rod from left to right.  What I did not see, and thought I might should, was the damper door (#11) opening and closing when I moved the rod.

 

Q1) Should this door open and close due to the rod going from left to right?

 

The damper door did have attached the spring, which was connected to the pointed rod part of #8 - the auto damper.  I can't tell how the auto damper is supposed to work, whether that rod is supposed to move or not.

Q2) How can I tell if the auto damper is doing what it is supposed to be doing?

 

Q3) When I hold up my hand to the opening from the freezer, I can't feel the difference in the air flow, whether the temperature rod is all the way to the left or right.  Is there a chance I have ice blockage in the ducts or baffles from the freezer?  I can't feel any from the fridge side, and checking from the freezer side would mean I'd have to take out the ice maker. Didn't want to make this even more complicated if that wasn't really a concern.

 

thank you,



#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 03:58 PM

Damper movement is also temperature dependent..

Did you align the "notch indicator" on 4, 5 & 7 ?

notch on left

whirlpool-gear-control-slide-61003305-ap


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#9 wannabeagrasshopper

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 04:38 PM

i tested the auto damper by cooling the alum wire, and it did move back/forth. Since that part responded, is there anything else that could be not working in the damper?  I found the Service Manual online, but it doesn't say anything else about it testing the capilary tube (assume that is the Aluminum coil).

If this auto damper is working, I am not sure what is next to try.

 

 

I haven't reassembled it all yet, so I haven't aligned the parts are you note above yet. I am guessing they were aligned when I took it all apart, since it was once working. But i'll be sure to make sure they're aligned when i reassemble.



#10 vee8power

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 07:00 PM

1. The door should be open at any setting of the lever at room temperature. it would get close to room temperature while taking it apart, one would think.

2. At freezer temp. it should be closed.

3. There's also an air passage at the bottom of the box to return air to the freezer. Might be a plastic bag blocking it.



#11 wannabeagrasshopper

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Posted 30 July 2013 - 12:00 AM

I am about to give up... grrrr

I can't be shown-up by my fridge.  Am thinking about going ahead and ordering the entire damper assembly, just to say i tried everything.

 

Question- i noted earlier that I tested the Auto Damper by resting  the aluminum wire against something freezing cold. It responded and moved back (i.e. the long plastic rod retracted, which would end up closing the door.  So did my existing auto damper pass that test, or do I need to test it in another way? That is, if the temp control gear attaches to this auto damper control, is it possible for there to be something wrong with that part of this overall assembly?  And is there a way I can test that specifically?

 

thank you,






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