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thedalailamahimself

Fridge (compressor) runs for about 8 hours every 2nd or 3rd day

13 posts in this topic

I apologize in advance if this has been addressed in another thread (If it is addressed in another thread, please let me know!).

 

There is, I believe, a compressor problem with my Whirlpool fridge (MN: ED5RHAXNO00). I use it as a spare fridge in the basement. It's presently running but it will be pooping out sometime in the next 5-8 hours.  At that time, the compressor will stop entirely. Yes, the interior lights work, I've cleaned the coils, and checked the thermostat.

 

If I leave the fridge plugged in, it will not restart.  If I unplug the fridge, it will restart after 24 hours or more have elapsed.  (This delay in restarting -- even after the fridge/compressor has had plenty of time to cool down -- is a symptom of some onboard computer needing to reset.)

 

It seems to me if it was an issue with the compressor relay, it would not restart at all.  But I'm hardly an expert.

 

Any ideas out there? (Much appreciation to you in advance.)

 

--The DLH

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When it shuts off wait about an hour. Then knock on the panel where the cold control is located. If it starts it's definatly the cold control.

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It could be as simple as a bad thermostat but there are a few things you mentioned that bother me a bit.... primarily the length of time it takes for the compressor to restart and that you said the thermostat is fine If this is true, then these are symptoms of a compressor that needs to cool off or a bad adc board.. so let's take it from the top maestro!

1)When the compressor fails to restart, is the evap fan in the freezer running? You may have to press the door light switch to determine this

2)If the answer to the above question is "yes" then check to see if your condenser fan is running while the compressor is on. If not, your compressor could be overheating and only restarting after it cools down. Also a symptom of this is the sides of the refrigerator are very warm (yoder loop to dissipate heat runs througb the sides of the fridge)

3)if the answer to both questions 1 and 2 is "yes" ie evap fan off when the compressor fails to start and condenser fan running when the compressor is on, then double check your thermostat/cold control. You said it is fine but what did you do to determine this?. Best way is to access the control, bypass it and see if the problem reoccurs (or if you see sparking while rapidly turning the dial. . If it doesn't reoccur after bypassing it or you see sparking then replace it.

4)If your thermostat is fine and the evap and condenser fans are not running the entire time the compressor isn't running then you may have a problem with the Adc board.

5)Finally, if the evap fan is running while the compressor fails to start and there is no problem with the condenser fan, then you may have an overload or start winding issue, either with the relay or the compressor itself (test capacitor also if you have one).

Combining your symptoms with likelyhood of part failure, I would say Adc failure, compressor overheating issue followed by thermostat (thermostat would rank 2nd but moved down based on your statement)

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First, wow. Totally impressed with the speed and quality of the responses.

 

Second, okay, this shows what a newbie I am here. When I said I'd checked the thermostat all I'd really done was check to see that the temp control knobs hadn't been turned to "off"!  It's now clear that there's more to it than that. And my apologies to you, Durham Appliance, for the lack of clarity.  Let me do a little more thorough checking with the thermostat.

 

To answer RegUS_PatOff's question, the temps when it's working are good: ice is frozen and beer is cold -- with temp control knobs set just short of coldest for both the freezer and fridge.

 

I'll report back.  IN the meantime, thanks very much for helping me out!

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To finish answering RegUS_PatOff's question, when the fridge (compressor and fan) are not kicking in, both sides get to room temperature.  However, it won't necessarily start up again just because it's at room temp.  The start-up phenomenon seems to be connected to how long the fridge has been unplugged. As i said initially, the fridge will NOT start up again if iI keep it plugged in.  It only starts up after it's been unplugged for a while.

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Here's the situation. I plugged the fridge in last night (it ran) just before discovering Appliantology. Having read through some posts and then posting my own (above), I unplugged it -- so it had only been running for 1/2 an hour when I unplugged it, that is, not enough time for it to stop running.

 

20 minutes ago (12:45 PM CST) I plugged it back in.  It's running and cooling down (there's a vented panel at the back of the freezer that is very cold to the touch; there is cold air blowing out of the vent).  The compressor is slightly warm to the touch and the fan near the compressor is spinning without hindrance.

 

I'll check in on it periodically throughout the day and report anything unusual.  I'll also report when it ultimately poops out (which is now usual).

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When the Fridge is warm, and the Compressor should be running, but isn't

is the Condenser (Compressor) Fan running ?

Is the Evaporator (Freezer) Fan Running (Freezer Door Switch closed) ?

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Nothing runs (compressor or fans) when the fridge is warm.  But the interior lights go on.

 

The fridge is still running (almost 26 hours after I plugged it in).  The freezer is plenty cold.  The refrig is not so cold (48 degrees) but that is because I turned down the temp control switch on the refrig side to 1 (down from 4/5).  Nevertheless, the front of the vertical divider is very warm to the touch.  (I have cleaned the coils.)

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... Nothing runs (compressor or fans) when the fridge is warm.

... the front of the vertical divider is very warm to the touch.  (I have cleaned the coils.)

1) sounds like may be a bad Cold Control (posted earlier)

2) is the Condenser (Compressor) Fan running at full speed when the Compressor runs ?

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bypass the thermostat /cold control and if the problem stops, replace it. If not, replace adc.

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It's been a while but I wanted to give the update to honor those who took the time to help me out.

It was indeed the cold control.  Since the fridge also needed a new ice-dispensing unit (it could make ice inside, it just couldn't dispense it through the door) we decided to recycle it (and get $50 from our utility company).

Thanks again to all who helped.

The DLH.

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Thanks for the update, it is greatly appreciated. This info augments our collective knowlege and helps us help others in the future.

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