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Kitchenaid panel lights


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18 replies to this topic

#1 Lynn Figueroa

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 10:27 AM

I have a kitchenaid oven that the panel lights were going on and off at times. I replaced the panel (clock)but it still wont come on. Model # kerc607hbl8. Is there some other part that I should have replaced? 



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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 11:18 AM

... the panel lights were going on and off at times.

the top Fluorescent lamp ?


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#3 Lynn Figueroa

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 12:06 PM

no the control panel lights



#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 12:13 PM

the Control (and clock) itself ?


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#5 Lynn Figueroa

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 12:34 PM

yes, the lights used to go on sometimes and off again but you could still cook. Now they went off and cant cook. I bought the new control panel which includes the clock but nothing...

Oven-Control-Board-9782455--00793231.jpg
 



#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 12:59 PM

Any part purchased from RepairClinic

can be returned for a refund (less shipping)

including installed electrical parts.

 

if not the Display, then would seem to be the Power Control Board
http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=940113
Relay-Board-9782437-00678302.jpg


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#7 Lynn Figueroa

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 01:12 PM

where is the power control board located? 



#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 03:54 PM

where is the power control board located? 

# 10

W0206027-00006.png


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#9 Lynn Figueroa

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 04:10 PM

I'm sorry, I meant where in the oven. I cant locate it at all



#10 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 04:14 PM

under the Display / Control # 2


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#11 Lynn Figueroa

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 04:21 PM

there isnt anything there. it goes from the #2 to the 11. there is no other board under there on my model



#12 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 01:54 AM

Display / Control # 2 plugs into Power Control Board # 10

When you installed the new Display / Controller, did you do the:

"INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS / End of Service Test Procedure" programming ?

 

this is the view you will see of the # 10 Board:

00679265.jpg

yzwf.jpg


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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#13 Lynn Figueroa

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 05:04 AM

i didnt get any end of service test procedure instructions. I was trying to read the one you sent but it was too blurry



#14 Lynn Figueroa

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 09:58 AM

actually i can see some of it and the problem is, that no lights come on at all to even do it. 



#15 PDuff

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 12:03 PM

On this model there is also an in line fuse that's part of the wiring harness.  I expect the fuse is ok since your problem seems intermittent.  There is also a cooling fan located at bottom/left chassis and thermostats located beneath the control that could interfere with operation if any of these parts are bad.  Does the problem occur after using the oven for a while?



#16 Lynn Figueroa

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 12:37 PM

Hi Kohai, It was intermittent for a while as I could lift the cover and wiggle the white wires and the lights would turn on again. Even if the lights were not lit, I could program the oven and it would work. then the touch pad finally just stopped lighting up at all and the oven stopped working also. I couldnt even program it without the lights on the touchpad. Would any of those things have anything to do with that?



#17 PDuff

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 01:27 PM

Could still be a voltage issue.  How about the surface burners, any problems with them?



#18 Lynn Figueroa

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 03:02 PM

no, they work fine



#19 Spannerwrench

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 03:18 PM

I had a problem finding the power supply board on the parts lookup about five or six years ago. It happened to me three times. The power supply was not in the control panel it was down by the back on the right side of the range. All of the breakdowns were wrong. I finally got the correct part that I needed, but I can't reproduce what Idid to find it now.

PDuff is correct, is could still be a voltage problem. Does any of the 120v circuit work, the fluorescent lamp or the interior light. The control needs a neutral for the lights to work, if the neutral is missing the surface elements would still work but the control would appear dead.
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