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kenmore dryer- too hot


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10 replies to this topic

#1 mikeL

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 07:40 PM

model 110.66912691

 

first the lowest of the four settings would act like medium/high, it's been that way for a year or more, we don't use it all that much.

Last night the dryer quit running while on the medium setting (2 of 4 ). Checked the clothes and they were really really hot. So it probably tripped on the high temp cutout.. Dryer started a bit later, but knowing something was wrong I stopped using it till I get it fixed.

 

I'm guessing the problem is the temp controller? I would assume the heating coil is working.

 

Is there a way to test the controller?

 

Or if I'm way off, please let me know.

 

Thanks lots,

mike



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#2 mikeL

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 08:30 PM

Got the main element out. 10.11 ohms and does not touch anything.

 

Thanks lots for the disassembly video. It was a breeze. And it need a good cleaning anyway....

 

Awaiting your sage advice via liquid grain hydration.



#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 08:37 PM

The Heating Element may be partially shorted o chassis / ground

Can be checked with an OHM meter.

OR set the Dryer to run an Air-fluff / no-heat cycle

and check to see that there is no heat.


also:

 

check and clean your Dryer Vents
 
Dryer Vent 4" diameter

Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F
Check / clean the Dryer Vent
Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.
Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,
$ 3.99 sometimes on sale for $ 2.99
image_1255.jpg


 

.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#4 mikeL

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 08:44 PM

The above Ohm reading was on the bench. I inspected the coil and it's not touching the frame anywhere, No sign of hot spots.

Reinstalled element and checked from both terminals to the case, zero ohms for both.

 

We're lucky. Exhaust vent is less than 6 ft long. But I will check it for obstructions nonetheless.

 

Will have to re-assemble before checking temp.

 

Thanks for the thermometer link. Already have one tho. Will use it later.

 

Any way to check the temp controller?

 

Thanks PatOff.



#5 mikeL

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 09:23 PM

Dryer vent - no obstructions at all, while it's not like new, it's very clean.

 

I found the schematic. I put my ohmmeter on the two violet wires and the resistance jumped all over the place with slight movements of the switch in the lowest three positions. On High I had zero Ohms. I checked the two resistors on the connector at the back of the switch and they were +/- 50 ohms each, so OK there.

 

I'm gonna guess it's the temp selector switch.

 

Now how do I get that out?



#6 mikeL

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 09:38 PM

Oh, just lift the tab and 1/8 turn get's the switch out. Google can be pretty cool sometimes.

 

Well, at this point I guess I'll get a replacement switch.

 

But if any of you can think of something I've missed, please let me know. Or if I'm out in left field all together, please chime in.



#7 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 30 July 2013 - 07:37 AM

Really doubt it's the temp selector switch, (I've never seen one of those go out).  Check the ohms of the heater, (the two small wire connectors in the middle of the cycling t-stat - should be around 7000 ohms).

 

Also remove the cycling t-stat and clean it of all lint build-up, lint can get caked around them and insulate them from the heat flow and make them take long to open.

 

Most likely problem is the cycling t-stat is bad, (possible pitted and arched contacts sticking together and not opening at correct temp).

 

You can check the temp control switch by checking the voltage at the two small connectors in the middle of the cycling t-stat with the dryer running and heating on the high setting the voltage to the bias heater in the t-stat should be zero, next lower temp will be approx 50 volts AC, next lower approx 75 volts AC, lowest heat setting should be 110 volts AC.

 

There usually isn't a whole lot of range between each setting, (not unusual to see only around 5-10 degrees difference between each setting).

 

If you check the exhaust temp at the high setting and you are seeing temps above 165 degrees after heat has cycled on/off 2 or 3 times then you should replace the cycling t-stat, (after you have cleaned it and checked temps again).


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 July 2013 - 07:43 AM

 

Most likely problem is the cycling t-stat is bad, (possible pitted and arched contacts sticking together and not opening at correct temp).

 

 

 

Cycling t'stat:  http://www.repaircli...er=110.66912691

 

Cycling-Thermostat-3387134-00693205.jpg



#9 mikeL

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Posted 30 July 2013 - 07:45 AM

Thanks Willie,

 

I'll check those things when I get back from work today.



#10 mikeL

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Posted 30 July 2013 - 07:51 AM

Ah so, Great Fermented One, you've confirmed Willie's diagnosis as well. And thanks for the video. I'll follow that later this eve.

 

Domo,

mike



#11 mikeL

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Posted 10 August 2013 - 04:19 PM

Due to the funky resistance readings I replaced the temp selector switch. The readings were too wonky. And due to the input of the Fermented One as well as Willie, I replaced the cycling t'stat as well.

All is working as it should. The t'stat was not overly caked with lint or anything, but the machine is about 20 years old so for the price of the parts I figured I got my money's worth.

Thank you all for your input.






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