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Riezinger

LG WM2487H has no power

9 posts in this topic

Hey guys, hoping for some guidance have the LG WM2487H steam washer worked fine for 4 or 5 years and then today just wouldn't turn on.

Checked breaker, no trip, then checked the power outlet, also still working. So then I searched online a bit and found this forum, so a similar topic, where to check the noise suppression filter, I seem to be getting 120v at the pink plug it seems to be okay. So assuming the main PCB ebr38163302 is bad?

I also read a post about spinning the drum manually and getting some life out of the display, which did not work for me.. I get nothing from that test.

We had some crazy power outages a couple days ago, but washer was doing fine the day after that, just now it decides to die. Could it be the display boards, or is the main board more common?

Or something else? Some sort of sensor?

I also have a little voltage tester that detects voltage right through the wire, and I was able to detect voltage with that right to the wiring that goes into the back of the display, so I'm doubting myself, but really just have no clue. Any help would be much appreciated!

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... I seem to be getting 120v at the pink plug

120v measured between Red pin1 & Brown pin3 ?

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The top pin is either red or brown, the middle pin is green w/ yellow stripe, the bottom pin is blue. It get 120v between the top and bottom pins, so I would assume that is pin 1 & 3

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Post the complete model number, you dropped some characters at the end.

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WM2487HRMA

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On the main PCB, there's a red LED that should be on whenever there's power supplied to the washer.  If it's not on, then either it's not getting votlage voltage or the main PCB is bad.  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/EBR38163302/1378186?modelNumber=WM2487HRMA

 

Main-Control-Board-EBR38163302-01061750.

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So it appears the led is out, had to unplug everything to find it, but hooked all back up and it's clearly not on. So this is a tell tell sign then?

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So this is a tell tell sign then?

 

 

Indeed.  If you're getting 120vac between pins 1 and 3 on the noise filter, then the other possibilities are:

 

- bad on/off button, ohms test:  

 

Pin 1(Yellow) to 2 (Red): 
button not pressed:  open 
button pressed: closed
 
Pin 1(Yellow) to 3(Black):
button not pressed: closed
button pressed: open
 
Pin 2 (Red) to 3(Black):
button not pressed: open
button pressed:  open
 
 

- bad 5-pin wire harness on display PCB (molex connector at the board as well as the connecting molex between the display PCB and the main PCB

 

- bad main PCB

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Just a quick update, I rolled the dice on a new pcb and that fixed it! Big thank you Mr Samurai!

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